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Thread: Effect of rear swaybar on e36

  1. #1
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    Effect of rear swaybar on e36

    So I've played around a bit with stock, or larger than stock. But I hear many guys completely remove the rear swaybar in e36s.

    My question is, why? What effect does it have on your chassis, in your own experiences?

    Thanks!

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    I personally run without one and prefer how my car handles without it. Not having one can make the front end push a little, but you can also dial that out with compression/rebound settings.


  3. #3
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    When you say the car pushes a little without the rear bar, would you say it pushes on corner entry, mid corner or corner exit?

  4. #4
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    Maybe this was the incorrect subforum to post this in, Mods can you tow this to the Handling forum?

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    My car has a little push mid corner but handles better everywhere else.


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    Quote Originally Posted by darbyfam View Post
    My car has a little push mid corner but handles better everywhere else.
    When you say "push" do you mean understeer? I'm trying to get rid of understeer in mine, especially in the wet, and was thinking of trying to play around with the sways, but if you say removing the rear bar creates more understeer I'll look for other means

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

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    Yes, push is understeer. In my car it did but it's not an apples to apples comparison given our suspensions are probably very different. The easiest way to test it is to just disconnect one of your rear end links and feel the difference it makes. Disconnecting one end link is equivalent to taking it off and is allot easier to re-connect if you don't like the feel.


  8. #8
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    Ran without the rear swaybar... holy worlds of better. The rear would rotate on power but not slide out.

  9. #9
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    I recently removed my rear swaybar. Car is very stable on corner exit, but still allows you to get the rear end out a little. Not a huge difference tbh.

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    To keep this discussion going:

    What size front bar are you guys using after removing the rear bar (and what spring rates)?
    Last edited by MPWRCPE; 08-09-2017 at 12:12 PM.
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  11. #11
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    Prior to disconnecting the rear bar:

    Stock front bar, I believe 570# fronts.
    Turner rear bar, 650# rears.

  12. #12
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    GC small front bar, no rear bar.

    Front bar attached to LCAs - it makes a big difference in effective bar stiffness.

    800lb front springs, 900 rear.

    I have a mid corner push as well, but I know I need to go to a bigger front bar.

  13. #13
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    1995 bmw 325is S50B30
    680lb front spring 890lb rear.
    No rear sway bar
    Front UUC on full stiff connected to A-arm

    Feels pretty neutral for track
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    I like the colour, No Bias
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  14. #14
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    Great info.

    I'm on 550F/650R with AST 4100's. Car is stripped and caged at 2880# with me in it.

    Just removed the rear bar and have both the GC large and medium front bar, but not sure which to start with? Opinions or experiences?
    Dave
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  15. #15
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    Some of it is personal preference and driving style. I would suggest, on those spring rates, try the big bar.


  16. #16
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    Racing Dynamics 27mm front sway bar, GC coilovers 650# front 800# rear

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPWRCPE View Post
    Just removed the rear bar and have both the GC large and medium front bar, but not sure which to start with? Opinions or experiences?
    Sell me whichever one you don't use!!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakermac View Post
    Sell me whichever one you don't use!!
    Well, interesting fact about the GC front bars: they all use the same hardware (same OD) so you can just swap out bars. The wall thickness is what changes. The bar is $150 without hardware so I picked up the extra medium bar. Won't be back on track until October though.

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  19. #19
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    Yup. Knew that. But when I inquired at GC, I was told a bare bar was $100. But then there's shipping and I'm sure shipping something that big isn't cheap.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakermac View Post
    Yup. Knew that. But when I inquired at GC, I was told a bare bar was $100. But then there's shipping and I'm sure shipping something that big isn't cheap.
    Yeah the $150 included shipping sorry.
    Dave
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  21. #21
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    I'm running 10k (560lb) F and 14k (784lb) R, 27mm front bar no rear bar and am still working on dialing in my setup. The consensus for those running a rear bar seems to be that a 100lb split front to rear is ideal however I wonder what the ideal split for no rear bar is? I would think more than 100.

  22. #22
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    I just did a few events with 10k front and 12k rear, Hotchkis front bar on soft and no rear bar. Rear end definitely feels too soft without a bar.

    I did a bunch of set up changes too, but I'll be putting in a bar again and doing a few more events. I think I may experiment with going with 650lb front and 800/900lb rear with no rear bar next season.

  23. #23
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    I run 650/800 with the GC medium front bar about 2" from the end, and the GC small rear bar (smaller than stock) on the softest setting. The more front grip I get, the looser the rear is, which makes sense if you think about it. For awhile I ran the rear bar at 1/2 stiff; I figured out something in the front and now my car is loose even on the softest rear bar setting. Going down 50lbs in spring in the rear (and fixing my rake!)

    Test test test. Forget what you like, look at the stopwatch.

    When you can get on the gas just past mid corner, stay on the gas without the front or back washing out, you're getting there. A lot of it is driver preference.
    Last edited by CoMZ302; 09-01-2017 at 09:04 AM.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRT View Post
    I'm running 10k (560lb) F and 14k (784lb) R, 27mm front bar no rear bar and am still working on dialing in my setup. The consensus for those running a rear bar seems to be that a 100lb split front to rear is ideal however I wonder what the ideal split for no rear bar is? I would think more than 100.
    Depends on how much rear bar. The GC small bar is in fact softer than stock. The H&R and Hotchkiss rear bars are crazy stiff.
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  25. #25
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    Here's a thread from the archives worth reading

    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/ar.../t-423480.html

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