Hi All,
While shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear on the on-ramp, I felt a hiccup in the engine speed like I lost power for a split second. Soon after that the temperature, fuel and tachometer gauges went dead,. Car drives fine but upon restart, the only 2 lights that come on the dash are the "Anti-Lock" (yellow) and "Battery" (Red) lights. Even the "Brake" brake light did not come up when I applied the emergency hand brake like it always does. Everything else seems to work fine at the moment- blower fan, radio, turn signal lights, etc.
Any ideas? I plan to have the alternator tested and check the fuses. Thanks all!
88 635CSi 5MT
Definitely check the fuses and make sure they are in working order. A good starting place with your 88 is buying (if you don't have it already) the code reader that the 88-89 cars can utilize. While its not always the most accurate, it can certainly provide a good start.
2001 BMW 330ci Convertible
1989 BMW Schwarze 635csi Factory 5 Speed
1988 BMW Alpine Weiss 735i Factory 5 speed - Sold
1988 BMW Alpine Weiss 535is 5 Speed - Sold
1978 SAAB 99 Notchback Coupe ProRally - Sold
Yes. There is a black circular 20 or so pin connector in your engine bay. Turner motorsports sells the code reader- https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW...nd-reset-tools
Turns out fuse 6? was blown. I'm going to get some spare fuses and breakers. Thanks for the input.
always nice when it turns out to be a blown fuse... unless the fuse keeps blowing. hopefully that fixes your troubles.
2001 BMW 330ci Convertible
1989 BMW Schwarze 635csi Factory 5 Speed
1988 BMW Alpine Weiss 735i Factory 5 speed - Sold
1988 BMW Alpine Weiss 535is 5 Speed - Sold
1978 SAAB 99 Notchback Coupe ProRally - Sold
did you check if you had any spares in the fuse box cover? If not, remember to put some in. It was a thoughtful design by BMW.
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1989 E24 635CSi
2015 F10 535i M-Sport
2002 E39 530i Sport [sold]
2001 E39 ///M5 [sold]
Yes, had spares in the cover and in the tools storage. With a car being this old, I worry some times what else electrical can go wrong. Should I get a couple spare relays too?
Go ahead and replace the main and fuel pump relays,also the engine cooling fan relays. They're cheap.
+1 on the spare fuses and relays. Replace the current relays and keep them as known-working spares in the trunklid toolbox. I also always make a pair of wire testing jumpers with male spades for the main & fuel pump relay sockets on every classic BMW I own. The fuel pump relay can also be used for a bunch of other locations in the fuse block.
Although they're nice, you don't need a code reader. You should have a check engine light in the lower left side of your gauge cluster. It's not the same indicator as the code "check" light in the center of the gauges. Just do a "stomp test". Turn the ignition key to position II (run), then rapidly pump the accelerator five times. If you're successful (and the CEL bulb isn't burned out), the CEL will blink once, then start flashing your stored codes. You can decipher them by how long the CEL flashes. The 'code' for everything A-OK (no codes set) is 1444. For that code, you'll see one long flash to start the readout, then a long pause, then a single blink, then a pause, then four rapid blinks repeated three times. Just tally them up, and you'll get 1-4-4-4. It's a little like Morse Code, LOL. If you missed it, don't worry...the display will repeat all stored codes until you turn off the ignition.
Latest update: Fuse went out again, in fact twice. if I recall correctly #6,#9, #9 again. Took to a local shop, SA says a wire under the shifter was chewed (or damaged to some effect) is causing the periodic short and part of wire was making contact with the driveshaft? which is why there is vibration under the shifter area. We're going to replace the Guibo while that's being fixed since it too is going bad. Also drain/fill MT and Diff fluid.
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