DIY links and reality

[57retsoor]

I am trying to replace the main accessory tensioner on a 2002 525 (E39). I have seen a dozen videos of how to do the tensioners for the serpentine belt. The majority fast forward or leave out the real practical issues and procedures, lay their phone down to do the work at the critical times, or fail to mention what you really run into and how to resolve it. Does anyone have a link that will show me how to change the main accessory tensioner without taking other vital parts off the car, like the fan, shroud, coolant hoses, etc?

[gmak]

Nope.

I always take the fan and shroud off. I don't remember touching the coolant hoses. This is on a 1998 528i and a 2000 540i.

What exactly is the problem? perhaps a bit more description of what you are trying to do at the detail level would help others help you.

And, which one is the main accessory tensioner, again? I would have thought that the serpentine belt was the main one.

[crazy4trains]

Nope.

I always take the fan and shroud off. I don't remember touching the coolant hoses. This is on a 1998 528i and a 2000 540i.

What exactly is the problem? perhaps a bit more description of what you are trying to do at the detail level would help others help you.

And, which one is the main accessory tensioner, again? I would have thought that the serpentine belt was the main one.

What he ^^^ said. Sux but true. You could possibly remove the upper coolant hose but that just doesn't give you much room to work. Then it's a real PITA to get the belt back on correctly and on the tensioner. I replaced my alternator recently, without removing the fan shroud, and it took me almost as much time to put the belt back as it did to remove/replace the alternator. Running out of daylight didn't help.

Beisan has some very good DIYs with regard to removal of the fan shroud. Follow their instructions to the letter and you should be good. Gives you an opportunity to check out some other things on the front of your engine while you are in there.

[nikh23]

Learn to do it now. Take your time, it's not difficult at all. Learning to take off the fan and shroud now will make your life easier when you have some other repairs in the future as you'll be able to get them both off in a few minutes. Removing the coolant just adds more time and cost on the back end by having to replace lost coolant and bleeding the car which is a huge pain


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[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Shoot, taking the fan, clutch, and shroud is easier than trying to work around them, on an i6? next to impossible.

[schatzy62]

Does anyone have a link that will show me how to change the main accessory tensioner without taking other vital parts off the car, like the fan, shroud, coolant hoses, etc?

Sorry on an i6 you really are going to have to take a few things off the car.

Best DIY I have found for this is here http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

There is a link in there for removing the fan and shroud.

Bottom one for the AC belt is super easy. Just remove the plastic protection panel under the engine of and it is easy to get to.

[57retsoor]

After more review, and looking at the engine bay; why don't people simply remove the airbox and replace the tensioners from the side? The shroud in this (02 E39 I6) is laden with coolant hoses on the bottom, the second water pump, etc. I also have a radiator support issue that I really don't want to disturb right now. So why not go in from the side, it looks like there is enough room?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Wow, really? You are still trying to do this without removing the clutch fan, and shroud, because you don't want to disturb the radiator hoses by simply unclipping them from the shroud, from the bottom??? Let me guess, you don't want to have to remove the bottom engine cover..... Have fun with that.

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Unclipping the expansion tank also seems like a pain, but really, it isn't. But if you insist on your easier way to do this, go at it, you will then see for your self why we do things the way we do. Moving the air box is gonna be a waste of time.

[57retsoor]

Wow, really? You are still trying to do this without removing the clutch fan, and shroud, because you don't want to disturb the radiator hoses by simply unclipping them from the shroud, from the bottom??? Let me guess, you don't want to have to remove the bottom engine cover..... Have fun with that.

- - - Updated - - -

Unclipping the expansion tank also seems like a pain, but really, it isn't. But if you insist on your easier way to do this, go at it, you will then see for your self why we do things the way we do. Moving the air box is gonna be a waste of time.

There is no engine cover, it's gone, just bought this car. I am looking for someone that knows different ways to do this, in this case; by removing the airbox, looks like there is enough room if I do that.

[crazy4trains]

Upper coolant hose is still in your way. Other stuff still in your way too.

Putting the belt back on without the shroud in the way is a biatch too.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

There is no engine cover, it's gone, just bought this car. I am looking for someone that knows different ways to do this, in this case; by removing the airbox, looks like there is enough room if I do that.

Dude, when you actually get to removing the old belt tensioners, you will then understand..... Good luck with all this.

[schatzy62]

There is no engine cover, it's gone, just bought this car. I am looking for someone that knows different ways to do this, in this case; by removing the airbox, looks like there is enough room if I do that.

There is NO other way. If there was we aould have told you already. Absolute minimum is removal of the top radiator to thermostat hose.

[57retsoor]

Found a video on someone doing this removing 2 bolts to the airbox and 1 hose, not touching the plastic stuff up front like the fan shroud that is sandwiched in there. Thought to post it if anyone is curious. I don't want to break anything up front there, so I am trying this method Tuesday, will advise!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDItaAsDWpY

[schatzy62]

Found a video on someone doing this removing 2 bolts to the airbox and 1 hose, not touching the plastic stuff up front like the fan shroud that is sandwiched in there. Thought to post it if anyone is curious. I don't want to break anything up front there, so I am trying this method Tuesday, will advise!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDItaAsDWpY

The ONLY reason he can get in there is because a large part of the Shroud has been broken off and is missing. Check the comparison photos below.

His shroud
20170813_121309.jpg

A real intact shroud
20170813_121422.jpg

But go ahead and try.

It is unfortunare that you just cant understand that many of us that have responded to this thread have worked on these cars for more than 10 years and like me for 13 years. And we DO KNOW what we are talking about.

[nikh23]

i'd much rather remove the fan and shroud than any of the coolant hoses, such a pain to bleed these things. if you're planning on going that round you may consider replacing some of the cooling system while you're in there. good luck to you on tuesday

[57retsoor]

i'd much rather remove the fan and shroud than any of the coolant hoses, such a pain to bleed these things. if you're planning on going that round you may consider replacing some of the cooling system while you're in there. good luck to you on tuesday

I don't come here to win or lose arguments. I come here to learn and share experience, much like a program I attend meetings in.
Seemingly, many people have issues and problems with many procedures, and I rather look at things with a "new pair of glasses", to alleviate them.
I started and completed this tensioner replacement today, as I said I would, and yes, I did it by simply removing the airbox and tensioners. I bought the water pump holder and fan clutch tool. I did not use them. I did not take off any coolant hoses, fan, shroud, or the a/c belt either.
Much like surgery, if I don't have to disturb another neighboring component, I don't. There can only be one more thing that can break or cause complications, frustration, more money, a new part search; and an hour job turn into weekend(s). Thanks for the informative, thought provoking replies.

I needed a 16mm, 13mm, 10mm; 10mm and soapy water to rejoin boot with airbox. I knew the a/c tensioner was okay by listening to it turned on and off during squealing noise. I did not need to remove it, so I didn't. I released tension on the belt at the idler pulley tensioner with a 16mm. When putting the belt back on, since there is no room at the idler pulley with the wrenches in the way, plenty of room at the alternator, so I put it back on there last. The "roller" above the idler tensioner needs replacing, but more interesting, while I was down there sniffing around, I smelled a burnt odor from the alternator the location where there is a chirping sound coming from at idle. The job took an hour, not rushing, observing and figuring out the best way to put the belt back on because once you have a ratchet in there, real estate was tight. The alternator area had lots of room. The roller should take about 10 minutes now that I have been in there and experienced "the job".
I am looking in that now and plan on rebuilding it if I can find a kit, if not; a quick search turned up $196. online for a rebuilt one, and $135. at a local alternator shop. I used to "just replace them all" too. That approach changed when I was laid off. Now I do what is necessary.

[gmak]

I don't come here to win or lose arguments. I come here to learn and share experience, much like a program I attend meetings in.
Seemingly, many people have issues and problems with many procedures, and I rather look at things with a "new pair of glasses", to alleviate them.
I started and completed this tensioner replacement today, as I said I would, and yes, I did it by simply removing the airbox and tensioners. I bought the water pump holder and fan clutch tool. I did not use them. I did not take off any coolant hoses, fan, shroud, or the a/c belt either.
Much like surgery, if I don't have to disturb another neighboring component, I don't. There can only be one more thing that can break or cause complications, frustration, more money, a new part search; and an hour job turn into weekend(s). Thanks for the informative, thought provoking replies. I will post details in the morning, going to bed. Happy reading!

Good Job!

[nikh23]

awesome. i hope you continued with the surgical analogy and took the opportunity to examine all the nearby areas for any pathologies while you were in there.

[auaq]

Since I don't own an I6 E39 anymore, so it's been a while I last worked on it especially in the front end of the motor. Technically speaking you could getaway without removing the upper radiator hose and the fan shroud (unbroken that is) by removing the air box AND removing the fan to replace the drive belts, tensioner, and other parts. I've replaced thermostats before without removing the shroud though (never had the fan on because I totally removed it long time ago). Obviously, the two hoses were removed too, but I also never had to remove the expansion tank. Just removing the air box out of the way gives a pretty good room to work your way around the tight spaces or hands being in awkward positions. But it works.

OP, how long did it take for you to do this job with absolute minimum "labor" involved?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Had to be a b1tch to do.....admit it, but good for you, that takes care of the tensioner for the main belt. Again, it had to be a big pain in the butt, but what about the other tensioner? Yep, there is another one, you knew that, right? It's on the other side.... but if you're all about doing the easy stuff and only changing what went bad, I guess it works for you. Me, when one gets changed, common sense urges me to do the other one all at one time, it's called preventive maintenance, but hey, feel free to post a new thread when you have to change out the other one. Personally, seems like a waste of bandwidth if you ask me.

[motion]

As always do as you feel is best. You didn't mention how many miles were on the car when purchased, there may be may other items that you should consider changing while in that area. You didn't mention what's the reason for replacing only the tensioner. Regarding the fan clutch, since you have the tools, I'd remove it, coat it with anti-seize and reinstall, it's better to find out now if it's frozen.

[57retsoor]

As always do as you feel is best. You didn't mention how many miles were on the car when purchased, there may be may other items that you should consider changing while in that area. You didn't mention what's the reason for replacing only the tensioner. Regarding the fan clutch, since you have the tools, I'd remove it, coat it with anti-seize and reinstall, it's better to find out now if it's frozen.

180K, had the "chirping" sound that would change pitch, go away, come back, etc. Just had a garage do a new water pump because I noticed the wp shaft moving about a half inch in and out, with a grinding noise that you could feel with your hand.

[fullthrottle540]

I needed a 16mm, 13mm, 10mm; 10mm and soapy water to rejoin boot with airbox. I knew the a/c tensioner was okay by listening to it turned on and off during squealing noise. I did not need to remove it, so I didn't. I released tension on the belt at the idler pulley tensioner with a 16mm. When putting the belt back on, since there is no room at the idler pulley with the wrenches in the way, plenty of room at the alternator, so I put it back on there last. The "roller" above the idler tensioner needs replacing, but more interesting, while I was down there sniffing around, I smelled a burnt odor from the alternator the location where there is a chirping sound coming from at idle. The job took an hour, not rushing, observing and figuring out the best way to put the belt back on because once you have a ratchet in there, real estate was tight. The alternator area had lots of room. The roller should take about 10 minutes now that I have been in there and experienced "the job".
I am looking in that now and plan on rebuilding it if I can find a kit, if not; a quick search turned up $196. online for a rebuilt one, and $135. at a local alternator shop. I used to "just replace them all" too. That approach changed when I was laid off. Now I do what is necessary.

Well maybe you have to remove AC. I had my mechanic replace brakes last month and I think he messed with the threads on the AC pulley. He is an idiot. I dont know whether to use the 16mm or the 13mm. I looked on youtube but nobody is being helpful. Interesting, I learned that the tensioner spins pulley but the wrench doesn't really fit unless you have the right tools but even then, there is no room. Where are the rooms, I searched online but not too much info. Well I waited 20 minutes and used a crescent wrench after I took a step back and thought about it. Then, the so called "roller" it turns out (no pun intended) its on a bearing and you have to go online first. A quick google search turned up I was doing everything correctly, no thanks to the forum. Only ussue is now I can find rebuilt on ebay but bottom line is airbox needed flathead #2 in conjunction with spring . I smelled some oil so now looking at amazon and sumps and pump replacement. Some are $135 and some are $165 so who knows. Now I only do what is proper and necessary

I hope this helps somebody in the future.

I

[57retsoor]

Well maybe you have to remove AC. I had my mechanic replace brakes last month and I think he messed with the threads on the AC pulley. He is an idiot. I dont know whether to use the 16mm or the 13mm. I looked on youtube but nobody is being helpful. Interesting, I learned that the tensioner spins pulley but the wrench doesn't really fit unless you have the right tools but even then, there is no room. Where are the rooms, I searched online but not too much info. Well I waited 20 minutes and used a crescent wrench after I took a step back and thought about it. Then, the so called "roller" it turns out (no pun intended) its on a bearing and you have to go online first. A quick google search turned up I was doing everything correctly, no thanks to the forum. Only ussue is now I can find rebuilt on ebay but bottom line is airbox needed flathead #2 in conjunction with spring . I smelled some oil so now looking at amazon and sumps and pump replacement. Some are $135 and some are $165 so who knows. Now I only do what is proper and necessary

I hope this helps somebody in the future.

I

Wow, I tried to jump on anywhere I understood a whole sentence. I cannot and am speechless.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

He is normally all kinds of mixed up, hey 57retsoor, sorry to hear about you getting laid off. I hope things change and get better man, been there myself back in '08.