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Thread: Thecatmilton's M42 Thread

  1. #1
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    Thecatmilton's M42 Thread

    I ended up getting a e30 M42 out of a 1991 318is today. I got the engine, all engine accessories, wiring, ecu, and transmission for $500. It has 220k on it and I think it may had a blown head gasket. I found a headgasket kit in the trunk thats been used as I dug through it. Did I do okay?

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    Last edited by Thecatmilton; 05-17-2018 at 12:52 PM.

  2. #2
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    Nice job!! $500 is definitely the going rate and less than what I spent going over everything. You may wanna poke in to the timing case and check the health of the timing rails. Just a tip, the chain tensioner rail and even the guide rail can be used off the late m42 and m44, if you just use the respective bolts for the set up. That's what I did and it saved me at least $100 by having more items to find in a sale. One forum goer said he found a rail on rockauto for pennies on the dollar, I dont know if you'd have such luck.

    Good luck, cant wait to see progress. Hopefully you dont lap me haha
    Last edited by jaredmac11; 08-03-2017 at 12:39 PM.

  3. #3
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    Awesome! It'll be nice working on that out of the car. My girlfriend has a '95 e36 and wow - just doing the valve cover gasket was much more inconvenient than it should have been

    EDIT - Ditto on the m44 bits. The m44 timing chain tensioner is longer lived and bolts right up.
    Last edited by Somjuan; 08-02-2017 at 07:47 PM.
    -John

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  5. #5
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    i don't see the driveshaft, i would go back for it, have fun....
    Tom D

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom D View Post
    i don't see the driveshaft, i would go back for it, have fun....
    Why do I need it?

  7. #7
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    I believe its adjustable unlike the e21 version, just gives some more leeway

  8. #8
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    Heck yeah! Should be a lot of fun.

  9. #9
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    the stock shaft is not long enough, because it's fixed in length it forces you to be exact when placing the engine. the E30 shaft is the right length, it's adjustable and therefore allows you to place the engine without consideration of the shaft's length.
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
    88 e30m3
    04 330 dinan3
    84 r1000rt
    02 r1150rs
    all of them gray
    14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!

  10. #10
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    I sent you a PM. I have a friend who bought parts for a refresh from Pelican. He decided to go to an M52 (like all those e30 guys do) and abandoned the project outside the return warranty. It'd save you a lot of money since hes asking for half of what he paid. I also have a garage full of M42 parts if you ever find out a head is cracked or the alt or starter are bad, etc.

    Im down in Houston but if you are ever in need and in the area...

  11. #11
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    I just got the drive shaft. @Tom D I just read through your M42 swap thread and I feel like I may be in over my head with this. I'm not good enough at welding to make new engine mounts on the sub frame. Do you have any measurements that I can use to take my sub frame somewhere and have them weld on the new mounting points?

  12. #12
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    I'll offer some advice - you can totally do it! Grab some cardboard and mock something up where you want the engine to fit. Gussets are good.
    -John

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thecatmilton View Post
    I just got the drive shaft. @Tom D I just read through your M42 swap thread and I feel like I may be in over my head with this. I'm not good enough at welding to make new engine mounts on the sub frame. Do you have any measurements that I can use to take my sub frame somewhere and have them weld on the new mounting points?
    Im literally doing this right now. My plan is to get as good as I can specs. You should refresh the M42 anyways, by time you're done, I'll have specs.

    Just a few notes: You dont have to use the E30 M42 subframe mounts but if you do, you have to rotate them 90 degrees to make it all fit. The perches go right up to the height of the subframe, so it should be pretty easy there. I am planning to use 4" c-channel to keep it easy there. I'm really hoping I can get something concrete specced out so others can use it as a basis.

    Here are a few threads I have saved:
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=289261&page=6

    http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.p...3883#msg123883

    I havent done it yet, but honestly I feel like if I'm able to do it, anyone can. Im probably the greenest here..

  14. #14
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    I degreased the engine and trans today. The head is from pick n pull and the head gasket, intake gaskets, and exhaust gaskets look fresh. I don't know how I feel about this. I am going to pull the timing cover and see if anything was replaced.

  15. #15
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    Well you can always just stick the M42 in the garage for a bit until you feel ready to do it. Theres ways to store an engine safely. Dont start a project you arent 100% behind and ready to do. You see a lot of folks start a project and then updates just stop. Dont be a casualty! That being said, its not a terrible swap.

    Full disclosure, Ive been working on mine for a year now, whenever I can sneak away to the garage. I hit a lot of bumps because I got an E36 M42, knowing I'd need some E30 parts but it wasnt without its complexities and unexpected costs. I also did a top and bottom rebuild, every gasket, every hose is new and thats pricey. I had to acquire an E30 trans and driveshaft separately with all the other e30 bits you need.

    If you just take the engine and put it in, you dont have THAT much prep work to do, but I had a hard time telling myself no on some items.

  16. #16
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    i got an idea.....

    if you really want to do this swap but have trouble with the scale of it then simply buy my son's car and swap parts. take the engine back for store credit and sell it 80 cents on the dollar to the guy behind you in line. now theres no fabrication and work is certainly within your capabilities. as a bonus there's some pretty choice pieces on his car that came off my parts shelf and they'll bolt straight onto your car. afterwards sell the rolling shell and your drivetrain or give it to the salvage yard.
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
    88 e30m3
    04 330 dinan3
    84 r1000rt
    02 r1150rs
    all of them gray
    14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom D View Post
    i got an idea.....

    if you really want to do this swap but have trouble with the scale of it then simply buy my son's car and swap parts. take the engine back for store credit and sell it 80 cents on the dollar to the guy behind you in line. now theres no fabrication and work is certainly within your capabilities. as a bonus there's some pretty choice pieces on his car that came off my parts shelf and they'll bolt straight onto your car. afterwards sell the rolling shell and your drivetrain or give it to the salvage yard.
    I've spent enough on my project to buy your sons car and keep my own stock. Nobody wants to admit this but projects are $*@!ing expensive and go way over budget. Best to buy from people who have already completed the project.

  18. #18
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    Hey, I did some work today to spec out some cardboard cutouts. Note, the engine probably can move back a bit, but I think I have the engine sitting about right. Obviously cardboard is more pliable so perhaps its not exact, but its a great starting point. This is the driver side. Just flip the design for the passenger.

    Also, I really like how they did the subframe here on straightsixbimmer's e21 M42 swap site. By putting that plate on top, you can move the engine back a good 1/2" to 3/4". Thats what I plan to do.

    Good luck.

    driverside subframe perch.png

  19. #19
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    ^ that's tim lemon's car and i don't believe they did it intentionally.

    the late model subframe has plenty of room to mount the engine right up against the firewall and the with early subframe, such as your's, there is more then ample room to do the same. actually i prefer the late model frame because the mounting perch is closer to the edge making the nut for the rubber mount easier to get to.
    Last edited by Tom D; 08-06-2017 at 04:51 PM.
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
    88 e30m3
    04 330 dinan3
    84 r1000rt
    02 r1150rs
    all of them gray
    14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!

  20. #20
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    Hmm I guess I dont follow then or perhaps the early subframe is pretty different. I'm working off of 4" c-channel so that's square 1. Fortunately the mount is about 4" in diameter so it works perfectly. However, if I move the perch all the way to the back of the subframe, it leaves the engine about 2-3" off the firewall. Perhaps thats ideal since I'll have to route the wiring harness back there, but I figured with a plate on top of the perch it allows it to push back even further. How far back is yours anyways, Tom?

  21. #21
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    you've missed something. you're using E30 mounting arms?

    my engine is placed right up against the firewall and i could still move the perches further rearwards by a lot. with the later subframe you still can get to the firewall, but you're really close to the edge of the subframe.
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
    88 e30m3
    04 330 dinan3
    84 r1000rt
    02 r1150rs
    all of them gray
    14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!

  22. #22
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    below are photos, from left to right.....

    a late model frame with M42 mounts showing the height necessary to clear the oilpan/frame.

    late model subframe showing the forward/aft placement of the mounts. note that there are 2 holes drilled, one is for the bolt and the other for the locating pin on the rubber mount. also note that the back hole aligns with the mounting bolt for the subframe to the body.

    the third photo shows position of the engine relative to the firewall, this is my preferred position.

    the next photo is my early (1977-78) subframe showing the engine mount bolt more or less in line with the subframe/body mounting bolt.

    the last photo is of the late and early subframes. these are for the 323i M20 engine, but only the mounts are different for the M10, not the subframes themselves. again the object is to place the rubber mount bolts as close to inline with the subframe bolts as possible, this will put the engine against the firewall. it will also allow for you to use a steering dampener without modication of the rack's clamshell.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Tom D; 08-06-2017 at 07:28 PM.
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
    88 e30m3
    04 330 dinan3
    84 r1000rt
    02 r1150rs
    all of them gray
    14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!

  23. #23
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    Ok well just to note, Im measuring off the valve cover and head. Once you get all the accessories and crap on, I guess it does go right to the back of the firewall. Though you seem to be clocking your perches entirely different than me.

    I had them running left and right, you have them going up and down, which allows you to move them back just a tad. That's interesting.

    edit: Your third pictures is right where I want to land the mounds, and honestly its always where the engine seems to gravitate when hoisting. I definitely dont like the thought of having to access any components at the back of the engine though-- its tight back there.
    Last edited by jaredmac11; 08-06-2017 at 07:25 PM.

  24. #24
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    it's necessary because it also brings them inwards towards the center of the car allowing them to fit between the frame rails better and sends the engine rearwards, you would have figured that out eventually.
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
    88 e30m3
    04 330 dinan3
    84 r1000rt
    02 r1150rs
    all of them gray
    14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!

  25. #25
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    yes you need to have the intake manifold on if using a M30 unit because it's sticks out the most rearward. having never used the E36 disa i don't know how its positioned so be sure to mount it when placing the engine,
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
    88 e30m3
    04 330 dinan3
    84 r1000rt
    02 r1150rs
    all of them gray
    14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!

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