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Thread: Ditched the B5 S4 for a E46 M3

  1. #1
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    Ditched the B5 S4 for a E46 M3

    Hi all,

    Long story short I owned 3 B5 S4s in the past and wanted a "budget" sports car again. I came across a 04 Laguna Seca M3 convertible with 92k and SMG. SMG wasn't my preference but for $6.5k I couldn't pass this one up! It is a rebuilt title (PO hit a tree wreaking the bumper and and drivers fender). Insurance fixed all that back in 2014. Needs cosmetic TLC but mechanically sound or so I thought.. Interior is grey but cracking and torn bolsters. Exterior paint in great shape aside from some pealing around the bottom of the bumper (shitty respray) and around the convertible top cover. Needed rear tires badly (which I already replaced).

    I read numerous posts on what to watch out for when buying one with SMG and during the test the car ran great. SMG primed and shifted without issues. Motor seemed strong and pulled hard. Drove it home 115 miles without a single problem until the next day when I started it up it choked shortly after and shut off. Tried again and during idle slight misfire but otherwise held at around 1k RPM. When I took it for a spin and when going into the next gear I lost power for a few second then kicked back in. It even stalled at one point. The loss of power happens more and more just about every shift up and when downshifting.

    I ran multiple scans and no codes. No CELs nor any other lights on the dash. SMG primes and shifts as its supposed too (according to what I read regarding it). From my experience and looking at the exhaust pipes I may have water in my gas tank or maybe worse ie: fuel pump/fuel filter/injectors etc..

    Ive searched around and haven't come across anything that really relates to my situation so I figured I'd ask here. Moving forward I will buy fuel additive, injector cleaner, new spark plugs, do a full fluid flush in hopes this may solve the issue before I start considering coil packs, fuel pump and filter. If anyone has experienced this and solved the issue or can point me to the right post that I may have missed or even shed light it would be greatly appreciated.

    I fell in love with this car and hope to bring it back to run the way it was meant to be.

  2. #2
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    Jalopnik: "The most expensive car you’ll ever buy is a cheap M-car".

    You can buy an M3 for $6K, put $10K into it - and still have a $6K car.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by lmtfi View Post
    Jalopnik: "The most expensive car you’ll ever buy is a cheap M-car".

    You can buy an M3 for $6K, put $10K into it - and still have a $6K car.
    Not sure how this is intended to help answer my question?

  4. #4
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    Welcome to the Forum!

    Everybody has .02 cents that they like to add.

    So if you have no codes, then it would point towards a fuel problem then. Do you have any maintenance records? If so, comb thru them looking to see when the fuel filter was replaced. Also there are items then need to be replaced at 100k miles, like Oxygen sensors. Also if you don't know when the last Inspection II was performed, then the next service should be an Inspection II. If you don't know that that entails, I have attached the sheet for you to follow.

    Do these cars have problems? Yes and they can be very expensive items like the VANOS rattling on you. I would take a look at the top of this forum in the sticky's for help as well.

    So to get back on track, get a fuel pressure gauge, and slap it under a wiper then take the car for a drive. It should hold steady around 51 PSI.

    Also if you don't know if the Airbags have been replaced, take a look here: https://www.bmwusa.com/safety-recalls.html
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by dworthy; 08-02-2017 at 09:16 AM.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Welcome to the Forum!

    Everybody has .02 cents that they like to add.

    So if you have no codes, then it would point towards a fuel problem then. Do you have any maintenance records? If so, comb thru them looking to see when the fuel filter was replaced. Also there are items then need to be replaced at 100k miles, like Oxygen sensors. Also if you don't know when the last Inspection II was performed, then the next service should be an Inspection II. If you don't know that that entails, I have attached the sheet for you to follow.

    Do these cars have problems? Yes and they can be very expensive items like the VANOS rattling on you. I would take a look at the top of this forum in the sticky's for help as well.

    So to get back on track, get a fuel pressure gauge, and slap it under a wiper then take the car for a drive. It should hold steady around 51 PSI.

    Also if you don't know if the Airbags have been replaced, take a look here: https://www.bmwusa.com/safety-recalls.html
    Thank you for the help, I will get the pressure gauge today and will update. Also thanks for the PDF files.

  6. #6
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    How much gas in the tank? If 1/4 tank or less and it acts like is starving for gas, put more gas and see if it improves, open the driver side of the tank (where the fuel level sensor is) and make sure the jet pump hasn't fell out of the bracket.
    The bracket usually breaks and fuel can't be transferred to the right sump of the tank where the fuel pump is, you'll need a new fuel level sensor if this is the case.

    It also sounds like a exhaust side Camshaft Position sensor starting to fail, but this would trow a code.
    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough"
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  7. #7
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    Id like to report that after adding in a good amount of fuel treatment and driving it back and forth to give it a good stir the issue went away. It must of had a good amount of water in the tank. I topped off the fuel to better mix it up and its driving great! I just had the fuel filter replaced for good measure as well along with oil change, tranny fluid change, and diff fluid change for peace of mind. I wanted to flush the SMG pump too however we could not find a DIY on how to bleed the pump. I read forums regarding this and how you need the laptop software to do it. My friend who is a mechanic never bled a SMG pump before understood and can do the software portion of it but could not understand where or how to drain the fluid. Has anyone flushed their SMG pumps before and can share some light for me to better understand the process?

    Also upon going over the car we found a leak in the seal where the driveshaft and diff meet. Id like to replace this asap and was wondering if anyone knew the part name or part number so I can order it. Another issue found is on the pass side of the motor, looking up from the bottom we found a "copper colored" flat head bit type screw/bolt on the side of the block that oil is leaking through. Is there a purpose for this screw/bolt? And is it common to leak? I haven't touched it yet but would like to address this asap! I also believe it is time to change the power steering pump as it is making a lot of noise. But, before I buy a new pump I bled the system and found out there is dark/grey slug in the reservoir and think it might need a new reservoir/filter instead to allow the pump cleaner fluid flow. Not sure if anyone had this issue before or if this is a common problem? And lastly and most expensive I'm worried there is something wrong with my second gear. When in second I feel slight vibration when accelerating. Any other gear it accelerates smoothly. I felt this before and hoped the tranny flush would help subside this but I can still feel it. Shifts in and out of second just fine though. Should I look elsewhere to diagnose this or am I correct with it being a tranny issue?

    Thank you for all the help thus far!

  8. #8
    dworthy's Avatar
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    So for the Diff, that would be best sent out, as getting the pinion depth right is a must!

    For the side of the motor, that is called the Constant pressure Valve. It is just a silly o-ring that is leaking, so you can drop it down and replace it. I purchased a complete valve when mine started to leak, but I should have just replaced the o-ring instead.

    To the steering, very well could be the P.O. put the wrong fluid it. I would suggest dropping the line at the pump, I think it is 22mm, and filling the system with fresh ATF. Make sure you look at the cap on the reservoir, as some of these cars were filled with CH-11. Once you put fresh fluid in, turned the wheel lock to lock 5 times with the motor off, if it is still making noise with the car running then I would replace the pump and reservoir.

    As to the 2nd gear shimmy, is there a specific speed? At or around 25mph would point to a center support bearing (CSB) on the driveshaft being bad. I for one wouldn't bother with just replacing the bearing for you should replace the shaft completely. What happens is over time it has prematurely wear out the u-joints. If you just replace the CSB, you will be back in there about a year later for the same issue.

    Sorry but I don't know how to flush the SMG fluid out, that is why I stick with regular 6-speed cars.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    So for the Diff, that would be best sent out, as getting the pinion depth right is a must!

    For the side of the motor, that is called the Constant pressure Valve. It is just a silly o-ring that is leaking, so you can drop it down and replace it. I purchased a complete valve when mine started to leak, but I should have just replaced the o-ring instead.

    To the steering, very well could be the P.O. put the wrong fluid it. I would suggest dropping the line at the pump, I think it is 22mm, and filling the system with fresh ATF. Make sure you look at the cap on the reservoir, as some of these cars were filled with CH-11. Once you put fresh fluid in, turned the wheel lock to lock 5 times with the motor off, if it is still making noise with the car running then I would replace the pump and reservoir.

    As to the 2nd gear shimmy, is there a specific speed? At or around 25mph would point to a center support bearing (CSB) on the driveshaft being bad. I for one wouldn't bother with just replacing the bearing for you should replace the shaft completely. What happens is over time it has prematurely wear out the u-joints. If you just replace the CSB, you will be back in there about a year later for the same issue.

    Sorry but I don't know how to flush the SMG fluid out, that is why I stick with regular 6-speed cars.
    Thanks again for your reply!

    I will order the Constant pressure valve today to get rid of that annoying leak. As for sending the drive shaft in; where would I send it in? Is there no seal to replace or anything like that? Also I think your correct with it needing a CSB as I do feel the slight vibration at around 25mph mark. Would you recommend just buying a used shaft?

    It definitely could be the PO using the wrong fluid. The steering pump reservoir cap does indicate ATF only and thats what I used to flush it with. I'll replace the reservoir for starters and see if that solves the issue. If not Ill get a pump. At least I know I ruled out the other possibilities.

    As for the SMG pump bleed Ill just got to the dealer to save myself the headache. Hopefully they won't charge me an arm and a leg for the flush!

  10. #10
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    I would give these guys a call tomorrow: http://www.driveshafts.com/products/Automotive-Parts

    You can use the dealership, or you can ask your local BMWCCA chapter for recommendation on indy shops: https://www.bmwcca.org/chapter/conne...valley-chapter

    You can get discounts of about 10% at most dealerships, and sometimes that alone will pay for the membership.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    I would give these guys a call tomorrow: http://www.driveshafts.com/products/Automotive-Parts

    You can use the dealership, or you can ask your local BMWCCA chapter for recommendation on indy shops: https://www.bmwcca.org/chapter/conne...valley-chapter

    You can get discounts of about 10% at most dealerships, and sometimes that alone will pay for the membership.
    Thank you sir! I appreciate your help.

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    Ditched the B5 S4 for a E46 M3

    Marty---leave it open for a bit--at least until July when Ric announces that we have a wing and engine from NR16020.Tom

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