Tips for buying an E66?

[377Z]

Ive been looking at finding an E38 V12, but based on the ask on whats out there I'm thinking of including E66's. Ive gathered that early 745's are to be avoided, which is fine since I prefer the facelift cars anyway. Not set on a V12 so 750 is fine. Seems like you can get quite a lot of car without getting into five figures.

Had an E38 short sport, that I heavily DIYed including front suspension, trans rebuild, and a number of other minor things but ultimately sold it as it was at 172k and rather than doing timing chain guides and paint I sold it. So, I am not afraid of maintenance, I'm just not aware of what the E66's common problem areas are. Odds are Id get one with mileage around 100k, I know to avoid cars that have frequently changed hands, etc. just wonder if there are any specific things to look for when shopping these.

TIA!

[White94RX]

Oil leaks, valve stem seals, transmission issues (harsh shifting, 2-1 downshift bump)

[377Z]

Thanks. Not sure which is more disheartening, trans or valvestem seals. Certianly not thrilled with valvestem seals, as it appears quite a bit more involved a job than 80's SBC's, where I last ran into the issue. Sounds like if it doesn't smoke on startup, or taking off after a while od warm idle, the seals arent cooked yet?

As far as the trans issues, is it primarily software or hardware, and are the problems most prominent at some particular time, like cold start or warmed up?

only specific oil leak Ive seen is the alt bracket on 745's. Are stuff like ps, valve covers, and various other gaskets common too? Anything a particular bear to change?

One other specific concern I have is coded modules, and should one or several fail, whether coding can be diy'ed or farmed to an Indie. Reason primarily is it bugs me when the techs aren't allowed to fix, just replace (as with transmissions--the 169k 5HP24 that broke the input drum in my '00 E38 only needed a new input drum and A clutches and steels (well and the A hub since it got rubbed), EVERYTHING else, bearings, bushings, clutches, steels, even the reverse piston looked new, it was amazing). I thought some modules can be recoded but am not sure.

[White94RX]

Valve stem seals are a fairly big job. They can be done in the car, for someone without access to a lift that can't just drop the engine out the bottom like I can. But be prepared for a back ache. If no smoking after an extended idle with hot engine, then you may be in the clear.... for awhile. Or maybe they've been replaced already.

The tranny is not a software issue, or BMW would have fixed it years ago, instead of replacing countless transmission. I'm sure it would be easier to issue a real repair, but I guess they'd rather go the route of reman transmissions, than have us tech's dive into them. When slowing to a stop, the vehicle will downshift from second, back into first, when the vehicle is almost stopped. When the tranny has the problem, it will cause a severe bump feeling. It seriously feels like the car just got bumped in the rear by another vehicle. Even my 525 with 175k miles did it, just not nearly as bad as the 750's.


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[377Z]

So since I wanted the full experience (well, that and I got it for $2,300) I ended up buying an '06 750Li that both smokes and is in trans failsafe.

117k, seller stated it was driving fine a couple days ago.

If it turns out the trans needs to come out, I might just pull the nose off the car and pull the motor/trans as a unit. This way I could also do the valvestem seals with the engine out, as well as any gaskets that look like they need changing.

Since I couldn't drive it I have no idea if the suspension/brakes etc have any needs, but for the money I can't complain. Bought a 169k E38 short sport last year with a bad input drum for $1500, I feel like for the additional $800 I got more features, lower miles, and better condition.

I'll probably start a different thread to document the build/resurrection.

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Well... you have access to a lift!! But if you would rather pull the engine, I still have an engine stand NIB.

Question to White94RX - are folks typically able to fix the shift issues with rebuilt valve body / new solenoids and separator sleeve (can't remember if that's exactly what it's called) or does it typically call for an Acura rebuild?


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[377Z]

Thanks, but odds are this will take me more than a couple days and I'd hate to tie up your garage for any longer.

Reading up on where to strart, but job 1 will be how to get it off the trailer.

edit: I have heard the 6HPs have a tendency to wear out bushings if issues aren't addressed pretty quickly; I'm debating just buying a used trans to swap if its looking like the actual trans has to come apart vs rebuilding. But will be interested in scanning codes.

[adwebinc]

Thanks, but odds are this will take me more than a couple days and I'd hate to tie up your garage for any longer.

Reading up on where to strart, but job 1 will be how to get it off the trailer.

edit: I have heard the 6HPs have a tendency to wear out bushings if issues aren't addressed pretty quickly; I'm debating just buying a used trans to swap if its looking like the actual trans has to come apart vs rebuilding. But will be interested in scanning codes.

Makes sense from a cost and time perspective on the used swap.

I have my 8 in the artomobilia show in Carmel on Saturday, but if there is a good time in Sunday, happy to swing by with the code reader and see what we come up with.


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[XAlt]

Stretch your dollars with the stem seals,.2 bottles of LM2020 next oil change. Has worked for a lot of people.

[377Z]

Makes sense from a cost and time perspective on the used swap.

I have my 8 in the artomobilia show in Carmel on Saturday, but if there is a good time in Sunday, happy to swing by with the code reader and see what we come up with.


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I'd greatly appreciate a Sunday visit (any time after 11AM should be fine), and hopefully I'll see you at the show, will be a nice family activity.

Stretch your dollars with the stem seals,.2 bottles of LM2020 next oil change. Has worked for a lot of people.

Definitely worth a shot, thank you for the suggestion!

[White94RX]

Question to White94RX - are folks typically able to fix the shift issues with rebuilt valve body / new solenoids and separator sleeve (can't remember if that's exactly what it's called) or does it typically call for an Acura rebuild?

I really can't say for sure, but from probably not. If it was that simple, BMW would have us do that as a repair instead of replacing the complete units. I have heard from a Mercedes tech, that it's an issue with an internal seal and/or pressure plate. He said that Mercedes was having them rebuild them instead of replacing. (The MB also uses the same or similar ZF tranny).

[377Z]

Well the valvebody rebuild has the car moving under its own power again, test drove yesterday evening. Carlys in the mail, so didn't reset anything. First time it shifted to second was rough, from there all was smooth, accelerating and coming to a stop. Only drove it about a mile or so, up to about 50mph max.

Maybe not a surprise, since the lone trans code was 4E21 EDS 2. Though I was not sure whether the issue was the solenoid gone bad, or a legit no pressure condition from a bad part somewhere in that fluid circuit. The guts of the valvebody looked good for the most part, the exceptions were the dampers, I gather from the pictures that the black plastic/rubber end that goes into the bore should be sperical, only one was (the rest were flat).

Couple things I already love: flat cornering, seat comfort, and feels much more powerful than the short sport (as well it should, with ~80hp more, and another gear). I still love the E38's, but looking forward to gettng to know this one too (and I will, lots more stuff to fix).

[377Z]

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Well the valvebody rebuild has the car moving under its own power again, test drove yesterday evening. Carlys in the mail, so didn't reset anything. First time it shifted to second was rough, from there all was smooth, accelerating and coming to a stop. Only drove it about a mile or so, up to about 50mph max.

Maybe not a surprise, since the lone trans code was 4E21 EDS 2. Though I was not sure whether the issue was the solenoid gone bad, or a legit no pressure condition from a bad part somewhere in that fluid circuit. The guts of the valvebody looked good for the most part, the exceptions were the dampers, I gather from the pictures that the black plastic/rubber end that goes into the bore should be sperical, only one was (the rest were flat).

Couple things I already love: flat cornering, seat comfort, and feels much more powerful than the short sport (as well it should, with ~80hp more, and another gear). I still love the E38's, but looking forward to gettng to know this one too (and I will, lots more stuff to fix).

Nice work! Car is in great shape and well worth the calculated risk with your DIY skills!


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[377Z]

Appreciate it, I guess I won't tell you I finished the job w/o using your torque wrench I'm bogarting (I don't have any 1/4 drive torx larger than T20)

Well, that's not exactly true, I used it to 'calibrate' my hand...