5.0 swap questions

[bdkawey]

So this swap is in an e28 but maybe someone can still help. I am trying to get the clutch to disengage. I was suggested to use a hydraulic throwout bearing rather than a fork and throwout bearing with a slave cylinder. i dont even have room in my tranny tunnel to make one fit.

here is the throwout bearing that i am running https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...UaAnVpEALw_wcB

It is recommended to use a 3/4" master cylinder with this setup. which irks me because stroke is also a factor. the stock master clyinders for e28s and e30s is basically the metric conversion of 3/4.

I cannot get the throwout bearing to go far enough to disengage the gears, i have it shimmed as close as possible without touching the pressure plate. when I bleed the clutch i have a small amount of stroke at the very top of the initial pedal travel that has absolutely no resistance. I dont understand if this is a matter of it being the throwout bearing travel before it touches the pressure plate or what.

I've been building this car for a long time and have had this cluthc setup for nearly a year and have been coming back to messing with it and giving up and working on other things for a long time. no matter what i do theres always that tiny amount of travel at the top that has no resistance what so ever. it is a new master cylinder with all new lines to and from including the plastic barbed feed fitting that goes into the master from the reservoir.

I'm at the point now where i think im going to have to get a 7/8" master cylinder which i know a lot of people like better anyways. not a lot of info on that floating around so if anyone can help there as well it would be appreciated.

thanks fellas

[Joh]

I am assuming that you're using a T5, with that aftermarket bracket that bolts to the two ears on the left side of the case. I fought with that setup for a long time. I could never get the clutch to completely disengage. Tried multiple clutches, bleeding, slave cylinders, etc.

what finally fixed mine was moving the slave cylinder closer to the input shaft. I did this by making a bracket that mounts the slave cylinder on the bellhousing. It required hogging up the bellhousing a bit, and reinforcing it by using a piece of steel on both sides.

The T5 clutch fork has a slight bend to it, and while it doesn't seem like moving the pushrod a little would be enough to make a difference, it solved my issue. I don't remember which slave cylinder I have now, I think it's that Datsun one that others have used.

I have no idea why some swaps have this problem and some don't. If I remember correctly there are some other 5.0 swap weirdos that have luck with this method as well. It was either the 5.0 Miata guys or the 5.0 ranger guys.

[ponchiz318]

If I'm not mistaken, schwerdt1 ran a hydraulic throw out bearing. Maybe he can chime in.

[Joh]

Looks like i didnt read carefully enough, you already have the hydraulic throwout bearing.

I think there was a thread where a guy put a 3/4" master cylinder in a track car.

[bdkawey]

stock is essentially already a 3/4 bore master cylinder. ive seen people us 7/8.

i dont think ive seen anyone put a larger clutch master in an e28.

I bought one of these clutch pedal brackets to reinforce the clutch as well as adapt it to be able to mount a wilwood master cylinder.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=103670

i also got a 1" bore master cylinder which may be waaay overkill but im just so annoyed with the stock not working and if my calculations are correct a 7/8 bore wilwood with a short 1.12 stroke isnt much more fluid than a 3/4 stock master cylinder.

if the 1" is too much ill ditch it for a 7/8 down the line. but for now ill use a clutch stop if its too much.


modded my bracket over the weekend and im either having the brake hose that i need made or ordering one today.

[rprbeantown]

I used a threaded rod with a nut so I could adjust the clutch engagement. It only needs to be adjusted once a year or every 10k miles.