Just FYI in case anybody is interested. I will be listing the $85 dollar cam tools with a free pair of new reinz e38 750 head gaskets on ebay soon. I went a bit over budget on this project!
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Wait, was it just the bolts?
I ended up with an extra set of those. I'm 100% doing the passenger bank gasket and the head is on the bench getting cleaned but I was wondering what you thought about just replacing the bolts on the good bank or just leave it alone. Still trying to get the exhaust manifolds off on that side and it might not be worth it. Pressure check was good on that side.
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M20 head bolts and the M70 are hex shaped from the factory, some leaked and can be replaced with torx. No idea if that's the case with the 73, but it's good practice to change them accordingly.
The m73 head bolts are E12 torx. The bank that was blown had three popped bolt heads. So on the "good" bank should I replace those bolts one at a time in bolt sequence or remove all at once and replace?
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I think it's the same sequence as the M20 for which to do. One at a time.
step one: torque spec at 22 ft lbs
Step 2: stretch 60°
Step 3: an additional 60°
Waiting 15 minutes between steps
Last edited by XAlt; 08-06-2017 at 07:18 PM.
Just a tad deep into this one! Six broken bolts. Three on passenger bank and one on driver then two broken exhaust bolts to get to here.
Everything is clean and all the bolts are extracted so now it's reassembly time!
20170812_164020.jpg
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Back together and running great but my mileage went down. Is it possible that I need to clear adaptations since I probably have way less intake leakage and the injectors got refurbished? I think the cleaned up injectors are shooting way more fuel into the engine than before and adaptations had them held open longer due to low flow. Is this possible?
I heard bad things about resetting v12 adaptations though. Should it be done and what version of inpa or dis will work?
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did you have them refurbished or did you get a rebuild kit? i've got a rebuild kit and am nervous the brittle injectors will break on me. also, did you replace the distribution hoses from the rail to injector on them?
I have the easy pre facelift injectors with no extra air line. I just bought some injector cleaner and took a 9 volt battery to hold them open and blasted cleaner through them. They all spewed orange stuff out and some took four or more tries before they flowed nicely so I think I got them cleaned up pretty good. Crazy how the car runs awesome yet my mileage is about 7.9 city when it was 12.0 BEFORE I fixed the heads! I did replace all of the vacuum lines though.
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Yeah, I have only heard bad things about adaptation resets so I do not think I will mess with that.
Last edited by xboss; 09-18-2017 at 09:52 AM.
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I forgot to add my final notes for anybody doing this in the future. Here are some of the details of the job in no particular order.
Passenger side bank came out by just removing the six nuts holding the exhaust to the manifold. Easy and no need to remove the back pipes that go to the cats like TIS says.
Driver side bank manifold nuts are incredibly hard to access (three of six) so I just unhooked the back pipe and pulled the head off with those pipes still on. Comes right out no problem this way!
I almost cracked the block by over oiling the head bolt washers. There is almost zero space left in the bolt holes by the time the bolt is seated. Just a drop or two of oil can hydro lock it.
Timing is super easy, no need to set or lock anything in place as it comes apart. You just reset it after the heads are back in place and you can turn the engine over all you want once the heads are off.
Spray down your exhaust hardware a day or two before you do the job. Be ready to replace some studs.
One of the biggest parts of the labor was because I did not have a parts wash tank. Everything was filthy and took a ton of cleaners to get right.
I did the whole job with very basic tools. All I needed besides the timing tools was a long 1/4" ratchet extension for the intakes.
I used numbered buckets for the hardware and placed all the parts in chronological order on a tarp in my basement.
The Elrig head gasket job kit has EVERYTHING you will need besides the head gaskets. It even comes with replacement CCV seals, oil cap seal, everything!
Broken head bolts are no big deal. They are not stuck or jammed up, they just need an EZ out to spin them out. As long as you do not drill the block you will be fine. I also had three bolts with popped heads. Only one was counter sunk in the block.
The hardest part of the job was the very final assembly. I thought I was 3 hours away from starting it up when I was finishing and those last three hours took about twelve! The whole job was about 70 or 80 man hours as a shade tree mechanic. I think the shop books 50 on it but like I was saying, the no parts wash tank part added a ton of work. I think I could do it again in a snap now!
I probably have more notes but that is all I remember for now. Good luck!
gggggg.jpg
Last edited by xboss; 09-18-2017 at 05:26 PM.
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lol that's almost identical to my engine bay
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i'm assuming yours is before 05/97. mine is 05/97 so it has the air-assisted injectors, sadly
Yeah, my 97 has an 11/06 build date so it has the simple injectors. My buddy dinged up the blue paint on the intakes and now they need touch up lol. The distributer caps will go back to orange when I get new ones, those were just playing around!
I do like my lime green valve covers and timing case cover though, dirty in that shot but they came out decent. I'm pretty sure your pics were the inspiration for the blue intakes. Your engine looks awesome!
Last edited by xboss; 09-20-2017 at 12:51 AM.
---- Processing Individual ----
Z1XX Upholstery
Seats front and back in Epingle / leather englishgruen,
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Front seat backrest in Montana Englishgruen (No. 8 174 861)
Other interior equipment as for Volleder Nappa englischgruen,
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your plug wires are good? OSV and boot?
didn't notice green valve covers, kinda colorblind with red/green sometimes. cool! have more shots?
Not to jack your thread, but we're on the topic.
I have a leaking injector o-ring(s), and about to pull the injectors to replace the o-rings. I'm thinking about converting to prefacelifted injectors and setup. I have a spare complete m73, is something straight forward to do or more headache?
---- Processing Individual ----
Z1XX Upholstery
Seats front and back in Epingle / leather englishgruen,
As Schl.Nr. B9EG.
Front seat backrest in Montana Englishgruen (No. 8 174 861)
Other interior equipment as for Volleder Nappa englischgruen,
Schl.Nr. P5EG
---- Processing Individual ----
Z1XX Upholstery
Seats front and back in Epingle / leather englishgruen,
As Schl.Nr. B9EG.
Front seat backrest in Montana Englishgruen (No. 8 174 861)
Other interior equipment as for Volleder Nappa englischgruen,
Schl.Nr. P5EG
i'd also like to do away with air assisted ones, wonder if any hardware besides rail is different
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