So i finally finished my turbo setup for my m10 and started tuning it. The setup is as follows:
Otis manifold
Borg Warner s252sxe .63 hot side
Tial 38mm mvs. Open dump. 5psi spring. 6mm reference line from compressor housing to bottom port.
3" exhaust with vibrant resonator
Ms2x running wasted spark and batch fuel. I run around 15 degrees of timing at full boost and afrs stay in the mid 11s
I am trying to keep it below 15psi until i build the block. However boost creeps to 20-23 psi by 5.5k rpm. I tried both 7psi and 5psi springs without much difference.
Diaphragm was not pinched or damaged.
Here is the manifold.
I know that wastegate outlet is not ideal and i am running fairly large turbo on low boost but damn it creeps almost 20psi over the spring.
The only thing that i yet have to try is remove WG completely or remove the spring and see what happens.
Any ideas?
Thank you
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Not enough flow is leaving the manifold prior to the turbo. You can try restricting the exhaust, or by adding a second larger waste gate.
Quick experiment would be to reduce your exhaust at the end from a 3 inch to a 2 inch. This back pressure will force more flow out the waste gate.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Looks like you could fit another gate on the front of the collector if you can get the oil drain around it. That's probably the easiest and most effective solution. Welding a fin above the wastegate port in the collectorto help direct gasses to the wastegate would help too. Mabey it's telling you how much boost it wants? A 2 inch exhaust will kill it
Ill try recirculating WG first and i might finish my exhaust. Exhaust terminates just before the driver seat.
If it wont help i might weld a baffle above the wg port. But i am worried it will kill the spool. It is inly 1.8 liter pushing fairly big turbo.
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If you are running e85, I don't see a problem with a stock m10 running 25psi. Personally, I would get a larger turbine housing which will lower boost pressure and let it eat. Also, your timing (15*) might be weak if you are running e85, thus acting like a rolling anti-lag.
If if you build an engine latter on, I would weld up the water channel on the back side of the combustion chamber of the head to stabilize it from deflecting. Obviously keep a small hole in it for water circulation.
WOT
I just tested it without the wastegate. It made 10 psi at 5.2k rpm.
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Last edited by Retoropak; 07-26-2017 at 11:15 PM.
A bigger hot side requires more exaust gas to spool. So you should have less boost creep.
Weld info in post 2 on the below link.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...up-H2O-jackets
WOT
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
wtf?????????
unbelievable. joke thread. april fools.
Last edited by Robocop; 07-27-2017 at 11:06 PM.
Ok so i welded couple baffles right above the wg port to redirect the exhaust to wg. And it did not work. So i swapped the wg to 44 mm and it steel crept to 20 psi (4psi spring) but at higher rpm this time.
So i figured it is bbq time and tossed some snails on grill.
Preheated the hotside to around 700F welded schedule 40 stainless pipe using 316L and left it overnight on hot charcoals to slowly cool down.
Just need to add vband for tial 38mm and it should be good to go.
Hopefully it will work and it wont crack.
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Tested it and it does awesome job at keeping the boost under control.
It holds the boost steady all the way to the redline
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