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Thread: Random Alarm - at my wits end!

  1. #1
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    Random Alarm - at my wits end!

    Hi peeps,

    I purchased my 02 740il last Aug and it's been wonderful.

    Since last week, the alarm has started to sporadically go off. I have searched the forums, and based on what I've read, I have taken the following steps, but the alarm still goes off!!

    * New battery
    * unplugged hood sensor
    * click key fob 2x to disarm the interior motion and tilt sensors (the interior sensor must have been disconnected by the prev owner since when I removed the sensor, I don't see the wire/connector in the opening or around the opening under the headliner board!)
    * fuel door lock was not locking - so I checked and replaced blown Fuse #58. Fuel door lock actuator started working but then as I drove, door open error message popped up, along with central lock system locking/unlocking at low speeds.
    * checked and replaced blown Fuse #58 again and disconnected the fuel door lock actuator - fuse ok now

    The only things I have not checked are the tilt sensor and the alarm siren in the wheel well. Any recommendations?! I love the car, but electrical oddities like this kill it for me

    Anyone local to mid-Michigan who would be willing to assist or look at it without fuming (like I am)?

    TIA

    - - - Updated - - -

    at times it goes of within a min of setting the alarm and at other times, it'll be hours or overnight before it decides to act up - no consistency.

  2. #2
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    Also, how likely is it that the alarm siren, which has an internal battery, has failed or doesn't recharge? probable or not very?

    The only other thing this would lead me to conclude is that the charging system is not up to par....however, the battery reads fine and no other issues (I tested the battery I removed, and it is still good!)
    OBC readouts:
    Key in ignition = 11.8v - 12.1v
    Car running = 13.7v - 14.0v
    Last edited by TireFryer; 07-25-2017 at 01:10 PM.

  3. #3
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    We have seen a number of internal battery issues lately causing this. Your car battery is low at rest but don't know that it's low enough to set off the alarm.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mayorchuck View Post
    We have seen a number of internal battery issues lately causing this. Your car battery is low at rest but don't know that it's low enough to set off the alarm.
    What's the range of voltage when @ rest? The range I posted was the same with the old battery I took out and the new one I replaced.

    I have ordered a replacement alarm siren, so praying that fixes the issue.

    Thank you for your insight.

    -B

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TireFryer View Post
    ... but then as I drove, door open error message popped up, along with central lock system locking/unlocking at low speeds. ...at times it goes of within a min of setting the alarm and at other times, it'll be hours or overnight before it decides to act up - no consistency.
    If this was happening to me...what you wrote bolded in red above...would be the area I'd look into deeper.

    If the only time this is happening is when DWA is armed (which means you locked the vehicle with the remote or using the driver's door)...and the red LED on top of the dash starts flashing)...then it is related to the issue bolded in red.

    If your door actuator(s) are remaining open (or opening later)...then the alarm is sounding off due to it thinking a door is being opened. You can NOT arm DWA by locking the doors manually and/or locking using the central lock button on the center console. Due to the driver's door anti-lock out feature...this means it needs to be closed to be able to lock it...so that means you need to use any of the other passenger doors (front or rear) to lock the vehicle.

    If you need to lock/secure the vehicle before you can get the alarm issue resolved...ALWAYS make sure you have your key in hand (or pocket) before you lock all the doors (you no longer have an anti-lockout feature...aka the driver's door...to prevent locking yourself out.

    BTW, when you do lock the vehicle with the remote or using the driver's door...what is the DWA status LED doing? If it is flashing fast for the 1st 10 seconds, then slows down...then it is a sign that one of the "monitors" is remaining open (likely one of the door actuators since you've already mentioned that you get a DOOR OPEN warning from the check control system:



    {E38 DWA status LED is located on top of the dash...not the clown nose below the rear view mirror}



    Last edited by Qsilver7; 07-26-2017 at 05:39 PM.
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  7. #7
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    When I lock the car with the remote, the red light on the dash flashes rapidly for the first 10sec and then continual slow, single flashes. I attributed it initially to the fuel door lock actuator since that was not operating. That's when I checked the fuses, and found fuse #58 blown. I replaced it with a new 5A fuse and the fuel door lock actuator started to work, which is when the "door open" error message began. After driving it for the day, I checked it again and fuse #58 was blown again - upon replacing the fuse a second time, the "door open" error message went away (at least I haven't seen it in the past 24hrs) but the alarm is still going off randomly. When I replaced the fuse #58 the second time, I did unplug the fuel door lock actuator connector (from the battery cubby in the trunk), so that is currently not working - would this lead the red light to flash rapidly for the first 10secs? I had to travel for work in a rental, so I left the car unlocked @ work for the day since I didn't know how to lock it without alarm going off when I was gone. All the doors do lock, however, when I lock the car and/or when it is in motion, so I know they are all working.

    If I am missing something or need to look at it from a different perspective, I am open to suggestions. You will not offend me if you break it down in really really basic and elementary steps or how to further analyze this problem.

    I will have the car back tomorrow, and I can re-assess how fuse #58 is, if the error message has returned and so forth.

    Thank you for all the assistance!
    -B

  8. #8
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    When you disconnect the electrical harness from one of the monitors (fuel flap actuator, hood sensor, interior motion sensor, etc)...it will not cause the dwa status LED to flash rapidly because it is NOT receiving a signal at all. So the fact that it is still flashing rapidly when you lock the vehicle...then it means one of the remaining monitors that is still powered is remaining open.

    Again, if you need to secure (lock) the vehicle at this time when the alarm is still false triggering...just don't initiate double-lock (which is automatically initiated when dwa is activated). When the vehicle is DOUBLE-LOCKED...the interior door handles as well as the exterior door handles will not operate and the alarm siren is activated.

    BTW...double-lock is NOT the same thing as deactivating the interior motion & tilt sensors. That occurs when you press the remote button TWICE or manually turn the key in the driver's door lock cylinder TWICE.

    SINGLE-LOCK does NOT initiate DWA...so as mentioned above...lock the vehicle from one of the passenger doors by manually pressing all the lock pins down, or pressing the central lock button. It sounds like you have auto-lock @ 5mph turned on too...and the vehicle is single-locked when this feature is engaged (the interior door handles can still be operated & the the alarm siren is NOT activated...which is obvious because the red LED on the dash will not illuminate.
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  9. #9
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    This is all very helpful!
    Is there a way to check the door and trunk sensors to see if that's where the problem is (since the fuel door lock actuator and hood switched have been disconnected)?
    Where are the door/trunk sensors?

    Side note, and might be totally irrelevant, but might as well throw it into the mix: the driver side rear-view mirror controller works sporadically - no reason as to when it'll work and I can adjust it or it just quits, and no adjustment capability. Been like this when I bought the car Aug'16. Passenger side adjustment, folding and tilt when reversing works just fine.

    **update**

    Just drove the car for 30min = no door open errors or central lock unlocking/locking, fuse #58 is still good, but I am still seeing the red DWA light rapidly flashing for 10sec before going to slow, regular flashes when I locked with the remote.

    For the time being, I manually locked the car (no DWA engaged).

    All windows work fine - auto up/down function works from the driver panel as well as from each door panel.

    Interior lights go off when I close the door.

    Door autolock and stay locked after 5mph.

    I did see that a couple of the "paddles" in the door latch seemed "stiff" - all had grease except for the driver door, so I will WD40 all the paddles tonight, and see if that helps loosen the paddles to work properly.
    Last edited by TireFryer; 07-27-2017 at 11:17 AM.

  10. #10
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    Okay... I lied. Upon my 25min drive home, the door open error popped up again. I sprayed a bunch of WD40 on the door sensor paddles, cleaned them with q-tips... let's see if that makes a difference. I checked all the fuses and they are all fine including 56 and 58. I plugged the fuel door lock actuator back in. After i locked witb fob, DWA still flashed rapidlt for 10sec then steady flashing. I disarmed and locked with the fob x2 to inactivated the motion and tilt sensors. It's been an hour and so far so good... but not holding my breath.
    New siren comes in tomorrow but not sure if thats the culprit...
    BTW, would it be worth a shot to unplug the battery and let the car sit for an hour to discharge the system and reset itself?

    When I was checking the trunk fuses, I noticed that one of the relays in the bank of relays was "warmer than the others.

    In the pic, it's the middle dark green relay (61368350566)... what is that relay for? The two (dark green and pale green) to the left of it were warm but just barely. Any reason for concern?

    Thank you.

  11. #11
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  12. #12
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    Bah!!! lasted 4 hrs - alarm just tripped!
    I hope the siren swap tomorrow solves the issue (in my gut, though, I have a feeling it's not the solution since I am getting the door open error!!!!!!!)

  13. #13
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    so I think the fuel door actuator is no good since, that is the only thing I plugged back and now fuse #58 is blown. I have replaced the fuse, left the fuel door actuator unplugged and when I lock the car with the remote, NO MORE RAPID FLASHING RED LIGHT for 10secs!!! Since I am at work, I unlocked the car in case it decides to set the alarm off, so when I get home, I will lock the car and see if it holds.

    On a side note, I will be replacing the siren alarm - is there a need to "charge" the internal battery or just plug it in and call it good? If it needs to be charged, how does I do so?

    Related note, I am convinced that this issue is somewhat temperature related as well, but can't substantiate it at this time.

  14. #14
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    The alarm siren is charged when the vehicle is UNLOCKED...and is done so by the car's battery. See the very last sentence in the 3rd paragraph in the DWA alarm siren info below:


    My concern is...replacing or unplugging the fuel flap actuator DOES NOT address the intermittent DOOR OPEN warning that you've mentioned. It will address fuse #58 that keeps blowing, though. If the issue continues after doing the above...you really need to address the door issue. One of your door actuators may be plugged in wrong or is on the fritz (especially since you wrote that the driver's door mirror is "iffy").

    The door mirrors are also on the same P-bus as the door modules. The data/commands flow from and to the GM over the P-bus to the door module, onto the side mirrors. So if the mirror is having issues...it may be an issue with the door block module:




    {driver's door module}

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...erials/A8vFKSx


    Check out the pinout for the driver's door module (A23) and its plug connectors ( X887, X1128, & X1129):

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...switch/ZCbyPdC

    Last edited by Qsilver7; 07-28-2017 at 06:14 PM.
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  15. #15
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    I think you are spot on with this! I had almost 30hrs of no alarm and it just went off. What I am noticing is that when the DS side view mirror is working, all is good, but when it stops responding, i can almost predict something will happen. Another thing I just noticed: when I tap on the DS door panel, the white light at the bottom of the door flickers and when I close door and arm with remote, rapids red flashes. I open door, tap door panel a couple of times, close door and rearm with remote - steady red light!
    Soooo.... search begins for replacement door module.
    Thanks your incredible insight.

  16. #16
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    Anyone have a known working DS door module for 2001 E38 with folding side view mirrors? If so please PM me details and price.

    Thank you!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    The alarm siren is charged when the vehicle is UNLOCKED...and is done so by the car's battery. See the very last sentence in the 3rd paragraph in the DWA alarm siren info below:


    My concern is...replacing or unplugging the fuel flap actuator DOES NOT address the intermittent DOOR OPEN warning that you've mentioned. It will address fuse #58 that keeps blowing, though. If the issue continues after doing the above...you really need to address the door issue. One of your door actuators may be plugged in wrong or is on the fritz (especially since you wrote that the driver's door mirror is "iffy").

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...switch/ZCbyPdC

    [/center]
    Query: In light of this, I have not replaced the alarm siren - do you recommend to go ahead and replace the siren, or replace the DS door module/window switch first and then assess the "door open" issue?

    Thank you soo much for your insight.

    -B

  18. #18
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    I found that my hood alarm sensor was unplugged and was causing the issue with my alarm.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1badturboe38 View Post
    I found that my hood alarm sensor was unplugged and was causing the issue with my alarm.
    mine has been going off whether the hood alarm sensor is plugged or not. I just rec'd working driver door module and side view mirror - hope this resolves the issue!
    Thank you for your suggestion.
    -B

  20. #20
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    Did you verify that the wiring going into the door inside that corrugated rubber boot is intact and not frayed? If the wires are shorting out, it could be causing some weird issues.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    Did you verify that the wiring going into the door inside that corrugated rubber boot is intact and not frayed? If the wires are shorting out, it could be causing some weird issues.
    I have a rental for work travel, so since I don't have the car @ home, I have not been able to verify that... hopefully tomorrow. good insight

  22. #22
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    been gone on vacation and work travel, but finally got the chance to replace the driver side door module with a known working module. The results:
    a) found reason for DS side view mirror only working sometimes = loose connection. Tightened it down and works like a champ now.
    b) door open error message still popped up on the dash = same issue as before, thus I can rule out the original door module being bad.

    When I arm the car, the red dash light goes directly to a steady single flash, so none of the systems it's monitoring should be open. The car is fine in this mode for about 3-4hrs before the alarm goes off.

    So I am back to the drawing board - what's the cause? What do I chase now?

    Since the alarm goes off about 3-4hrs after being armed, do you think it truly might be the fact that the siren with the integrated battery is bad and can't hold the charge anymore? Changing the siren (I have a used one from a junk yard, as well as a new one in hand) would, however, not address the "Door Open" error message.

    Thanks for all your input!

    -B

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by racer2086 View Post
    Did you verify that the wiring going into the door inside that corrugated rubber boot is intact and not frayed? If the wires are shorting out, it could be causing some weird issues.
    verified the wiring and all looks good.

  23. #23
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    Two most common issues are the motion sensor in the roof and the hood pin disconnect one at a time to see if either one is the problem and if neither one of those then you have a bad battery in the siren. I've replaced several motion sensor for customers usually 15-30 minutes consistently will go off, hood pin is more random and the siren battery can be consistent but usually needs heat or something. Either way I've replaced all off the above to fix your problem


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundaycruzer View Post
    Two most common issues are the motion sensor in the roof and the hood pin disconnect one at a time to see if either one is the problem and if neither one of those then you have a bad battery in the siren. I've replaced several motion sensor for customers usually 15-30 minutes consistently will go off, hood pin is more random and the siren battery can be consistent but usually needs heat or something. Either way I've replaced all off the above to fix your problem


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The hood pin sensor is currently unplugged, so that should not be setting off the alarm.
    The interior motion sensor was disconnected by prev owner, so I connected it. Alarm with go off even when I press the ARM button twice to disarm the interior motion sensor and the tilt sensor.
    By virtue of elimination, the hood pin and interior motion sensor are not the culprits - feel free to correct me if my logic is whack.

    Siren is next (although this will not address the Door Open error).

  25. #25
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    I feel compelled to chime in here: why are you wasting your time throwing darts at a board? You should be availing yourself of the extensive onboard diagnostics our cars are capable of. Even my old E31 communicated alarm issues.

    Take your car immediately to an indy mechanic or dealership to run a full diagnostic scan of your alarm system. Many indys will do this for free. The results will pinpoint the fault(s) triggering the alarm, so you can stop playing whack-a-mole. Maintenance of modern cars is almost impossible without diagnostics.

    Frankie
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