Just picked up a BMW key blank from Garagistic, now time to get it cut. Local dealer can cut from the VIN, or I can take it to a local locksmith/key-copy place.
Is it better to copy the worn key, or to cut a new key to fit how the lock was when new?
All the keys I've got are no-name copies, all are super worn, none of them work great and they pretty much only work on the trunk and ignition.
Cut a new key.
2011 M3 Sedan
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
1999 323i GTS2
1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is
1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
Hers: 1989 325iX
I haven't had very good luck with duplicate keys. Not so much that the master was worn but more because the duplicate is weaker metal. Our local locksmiths won't cut steel keys. The dealer can order you a steel key made per the VIN and guaranteed to fit (unless a previous owner had the locks changed). My e30 key is thin and very narrow at the last notch near the head and a duplicate key snapped off in the ignition tumbler. I wasn't able to remove the broken stub and could only turn it with a screwdriver. I replaced the entire ignition barrel and key with a much beefier key style from my wife's e36 VIN. The door locks never worked well with a key. I had a new factory e30 key made per the VIN and can only lock/unlock the car from the trunk, so it doesn't much matter to me that the ignition key doesn't match.
"The US Olympics bobsled team has renamed their sled 'Biden' because nothing has taken America downhill faster"
TheStigg (aka "gale")
92 735i 5-spd, turbo pending
89 535i 5-spd (may she rest in pieces)
94 325ic 5-spd
87 325is
Id buy a code cut key from the dealer (or a new coded ignition switch if thats iffy). Then rebuild the drivers door lock and you will be good in the places that get 96% of the wear
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87 Lachsilber ETA Time Capsule. bought w 125k from 87yo original owner
Cabrio deck lid & hinge struts (w sleeves) now for sale. See the link below for more info
New "made in Europe" seat shocks. PM for details
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The key is to at least get one new key, and then copy that. Brass keys are not awesome, but are OK. But it's way better to start with a good new key for any further copies. Also, I pay about $40 for a new key at the dealer, so it's not really even worth the effort vs. buying a steel blank.
2011 M3 Sedan
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
1999 323i GTS2
1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is
1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
Hers: 1989 325iX
Thanks all for advice. Code-cut keys working great.
Called the closest dealer - $120 + 2-3 business days, plus 2 in-person visits (1 to buy, 1 to pick up).
Called the downtown dealer - $47 for new key cut on the spot, plus they cut my new BMW blank for free.
so adding in Garagistic blank, 2 new BMW steel keys (one with a light!) for $77 total.
Bonus: door locks work again! Pretty stiff, but they do lock/unlock and activate central locking.
Dealer
Yeah, refreshing door lock operation has been on my list. Picked up a couple lock cylinder rebuild kits, backed off from the project when I went into driver door to clean & lube window regulator (I'm kind of a "one-thing-at-a-time" guy). Looking forward to seeing if it's the lock cylinders (rebuilt once already, around 2005) or the mechanism.
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