Hey Timm, Not sure what you mean. I test the car both with and without the multimeter. When multimeter is attached the way you show, I see the usual .5amp current and eventually goes down to .04amps in 16 mins and car goes to sleep. When I do the test without the multimeter, simply connect the battery directly, after 16 mins, I see the gear shift light still on and the little fan inside IHKA still running so the car is still awake. I am wondering how a multimeter could actually 'help' the car to sleep.
As I also mentioned, temperature directly affects the sleep as well. Today its 40f outside in Chicago and car is at sleep perfectly Your help is well appreciated..Thanks, Ozzie
Last edited by shogun; 04-09-2020 at 10:15 AM.
Ahhh...sorry, didn't fully understand your post. The meter will increase the effective series-resistance of the batteries - goodness knows why that would make a difference! Try doing the same measurement with the right-hand battery still connected - that should supply a low-resistance path as usual - and the meter will still give some indication of the current drain (it did when I was experimenting).
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
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Chase - Heroes to a generation
Revtor,
Sorry to jump into this thread but can't find the "Looking for/upgrading Bavaria C professional radio!" thread where you posted about the Becker BE1801.
I have an Alpina B12 5.7 E31 which has the 850CSi Becker radio called BMW Professional RDS (BE1801). It is a 3 piece system with Head Unit in dash and radio tuner and CD in the boot (trunk). I need to replace the Head Unit (and possibly the Radio Tuner). Can anyone find one for me or suggest a supplier?
whammy
Here is another question after checking the General Module (and door modules). It's an electronics question so it should not be car specific.
After I checked the currents on GM and two other door modules using INPA, I noticed .2 amps of current on each 'window drive'. Those currents are still there after the car goes to sleep. Is that normal? Aren't they all supposed to be 0? Would that be a sign of a sticking relay?
I am asking this because I do not see any other drain after car goes to sleep.
Any opinion / help will be well appreciated once again,
Thanks,
Ozzie
Last edited by turquise1; 02-15-2018 at 06:38 PM.
Anyone please?
I have the same problem on a 95 840i the 2 green relays in the boot are always hot they seem to be cabin lights and boot light and pos the heater valves I’ve tried replacing the capacitors but still the same the forward and back driver seat switch has worked in reverse for a while and I can only get into the fault codes and oil reset lights with the seat disconnected but other than that it works fine is there anyone in au who can check gm or can I get your address to send it to you as I’ve tried to read this and it’s beyond me ? Cheers
This sounds like it could be the same issue i am currently having after my batteries died, ive now replaced them both but my central locking windows and wipers are not working, my sunroof and boot are working how ever! is there a way somebody could fix my GM2 unit if it is indeed that or should i be looking at other areas, i have power going to my wiper stalk and fuses and relays seem to be in operation,
im based in the Uk and a hugh fan of Meeknet Timms page( i have donated in the past as well) be great ful for some direction please
thanks Jamie
Last edited by shogun; 04-09-2020 at 10:23 AM. Reason: unnecessary long quote reoved, pls use reply button, not reply with quote
Jumping on the thread, i have fixed the gm ii capacitors and still experience battery drain. What else can i check?
Is there any guideline on replacing capacitors for the remaining modules?
Ozzie-- If you're using INPA to monitor currents, then your car is certainly not sleeping. The windows would be using several amps, Perhaphs even as high as 10-20A if they were sticking. I suspect that value is the power to the relay module, door modules, or perhaps it's just an issue with scaling their Analog to Digital converter. (An 8bit number can represent 255 values, scaled from 0 to 20A would be .07A per bit, technically 'count') The current measuring mechanism (measuring voltage drop across a shunt resistor in the RM is not perfect). Monitor the same value when you are actually rolling the window up and down. The point of that monitor is probably to catch someone with their hand in the window, a next gen version of the terribly fault-prone over-current protection relay of the E32.
Relays in the boot are hot because the car is not going to sleep. I first suspect the repair job as I've seen it botched several different ways. Second, there's several other conditions that can keep the car awake, like bad door microswitches, an improperly coded module, a module with a bad serial flash that doesn't accept the proper region coding/options, or aftermarket equipment.
Based on your seats running in reverse, I wonder if your module is not coded for a RHD vehicle and possibly reverted to German / ECE coding. (Note, when coded for modules you don't have, the car won't go to sleep, in the same fashion that pulling the Wiper relays won't allow the car to sleep. The complicated programming in the GM has some bugs that is waiting for confirmation signals from modules that don't exist, like trying to get your wipers back to the home position before 'releasing' that chunk of code.
See previous comment. Try to make sure your GM is coded properly (There should be a sticker in your fuse panel with the GM coding). You'll need someone local with the diagnostic tools.
There are capacitors in the door modules, sunroof module, memory steat and steering wheel module, etc. While they can all misbehave to some extent, none are as obvious an the GM that keeps cars from sleeping and kills big expensive batteries. In short, remove module, identify and replace capacitors. The GM uses a 470, 100, 47, 1, and 10uF cap. Other modules frequently use some of the 100,47,1 and 10s, with the instrument cluster using a 220uF. No 'guides' available as it's not usually necessary to change others.
'89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), Tesla Model 3, and VW Passat TDI -- Yes, I still repair General Modules, DM for info!
EEDegreetoDrive, I just wanted to say thank you again for repairing my two GMs . Super thankful you offer this service.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.
Hi, I ordered capacitors to repair my GM, batteries keep dying during storage, the capacitors I received look huge compared to those in my GM. Will they work ok?
'89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), Tesla Model 3, and VW Passat TDI -- Yes, I still repair General Modules, DM for info!
Hi Timm, Firstly thank you for all your posts, videos and meeknet.
I have a battery drain issue, both batteries are new, I replaced the resistors in the GM and it has not solved the problem.
2 questions,
1.when checking the drain on the multimeter are both batteries negative terminals disconnected before you lock the car?
2. When checking for drain at the fuses again are both batteries negative terminals disconnected?
Regards
rod635
- - - Updated - - -
Thanks for the reply, capacitors now replaced but has not solved the battery drain issue, will have to start looking elsewhere.
Always my pleasure - all explained here:
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
Thanks, I had the capacitors replaced on the gm and the batteries are still dying after a few days. If I’m checking for drain at the fuses are both batteries negative terminals disconnected or connected?
Replace both battery negatives and ensure the batteries are good and are fully charged - you cannot do current measurements with a discharged or failing battery. And don't forget, every time you open a door, boot or bonnet the 16 minutes starts again.
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
I am replacing my headliner in the my 1991, So headliner is out and all the plugs and bulbs are hanging in the air. Car Ran and drove fine everything worked. Scott had repaired my GM a couple years ago. I swapped spark plugs and did the Magic Reset. I forgot to take the key out of the ignition when I hooked the batteries up. Hazards came on like they always do but now they do not shut off. Had to pull the Crash Module to turn them off. Sunroof, radio, trunk lock, door locks etc do not work now. Car starts up and runs fine. Obviously all controlled by the GM. Fuzes look good. Any ideas on what to do next?
I suspect you might have blown one of the fusible links that feeds the fuse panel, or perhaps one of your consumer cut-off relays is not working. Do your Interior lights work?
Open your trunk, close doors, let the car sleep for more than 16 mins. After your car is sleeping, open the door, and you should hear the consumer cut-out relays in the trunk engage.
'89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), Tesla Model 3, and VW Passat TDI -- Yes, I still repair General Modules, DM for info!
Interior Lights do not work
Are these the Main Fusible Links on the Right hand Side? I can see if one reset
Last edited by rjjablo; 10-07-2020 at 09:09 AM.
I describe and show (one of) the fuseible links in this video:
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
Consumer Cut Off Relays went Click
Went to Check my Stereo Fuzes that replaced my Fusible Links. When I did the Magic Reset one came off the cable. Cable has been trimmed and is very short and hard to get a good connection.
Whats fun is that Car still started with one of the main power cable disconnected.
Everything is back to the way it was.
Thanks for the help.
Hey everyone! I just ordered a bunch of new capacitors, hopefully 100x of the 470uF should be a 'lifetime' buy for me, but you folks keep me busy year after year, so maybe not!
I also ordered capacitors for the Relay Module, Door Modules, and Steering Memory Module (many are shared, but there's a few extras).
I also ordered 25pcs of the 1K serial eeprom for the handful of problematic GMs that have lost their coding and/or can't be reprogrammed.
Hope everyone is doing well! It's been a busy few years so I haven't been able to contribute much in the forum here, but I still turn around the GMs and other modules quickly when folks reach out to me!
Thanks again for your continued support!
'89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), Tesla Model 3, and VW Passat TDI -- Yes, I still repair General Modules, DM for info!
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