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Thread: Stumbled and no more spark - 1985 318i

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    1985 318i

    Stumbled and no more spark - 1985 318i

    Howdy,

    Driving around town the other day, the car started farting and sputtering. It died at a red light. Light turned green and after a lot of cranking, it fired up, and I was able to pull forward into the intersection when it died again. Yay. I pushed it uphill across traffic into the nearest parking lot.

    I didn't have too many tools with me so troubleshooting for 3 hours only revealed that there was no spark, but plenty of fuel. I got it to fire up again for a few seconds but it quickly died. I haven't been able to get it to fire again.

    Battery is fully charged and maybe 6 months old. Plug wires, plugs, and dist cap are a year old, but only have maybe 200 miles on them (I almost never drive my car any more, just ride the motorcycle). There is no spark on any of the 4 cylinders, nor when hooking a spark plug to the main power lead from the coil.

    This is an L-jetronic 318i with Siemens/Telefunken ICU. There is no stomp test for my year/model.

    I've tested the following:
    Coil primary: 1.8-1.2 ohms
    Coil secondary: 8,100 ohms
    ICU large plug terminals 6/3 (I think): 12.2 V
    ICU large plug terminal to coil terminal: Continuity (can't remember the small ohm value)
    ICU small plug across itself: Continuity (can't remember the small ohm value)
    ICU small plug, while cranking: 1.2V AC

    I reached the end of the electrical troubleshooting chapters of the Chilton and Haynes (still looking for my Bentley). Each value is right about where it should be, except the coil primary ohm reading. I'm at 1.2 instead of 0.8.. but really, half an ohm would kill me? I find that hard to believe. I believe the Motronic has all the simple tests for CPS' and whatnot, so those don't apply to me.

    Any ideas where to go next?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Chicagoland area
    Posts
    4,377
    My Cars
    EXOTICS
    Check all engine and battery neg-grounds for clean, snug connections,
    also ECU grounds.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    42 deg lat -70 deg long
    Posts
    43
    My Cars
    Yes, please.
    Check the spark plug and cool wire connections. Make sure the wires have a good internal connection to the mating component.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    MYRTLE BCH SC
    Posts
    1,045
    My Cars
    86 porsche 930, 88 325is
    12v on coil?
    crank and check for spark, if no spark then try thre CPS
    [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 86 PORSCHE 930
    [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 88 BMW 325is 200K+
    [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 2000 MERCEDES E320 WAGON
    [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:99 GRAND CHEROKEE 160K::
    [_:_] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: mazda B2200

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    1985 318i
    Since I hate dead-end threads with no updates, here's my update.

    Today, I replaced the coil and it started right up. Runs fine now.

    The weird thing is the book says the values should be:
    Coil primary: 0.82 ohms
    Coil secondary: 8,500 ohms

    ..and the old/bad Bosch coil are:
    Coil primary: 1.2 ohms
    Coil secondary: 8,100 ohms

    ..and the new/good Bosch coil are:
    Coil primary: 1.2 ohms
    Coil secondary: 10,270 ohms

    So, technically, this new/good one is even further from the spec, but... further in a good way?

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