2004 330xi-Battery keeps going dead after window regulator change

[kriegtb]

I recently changed the driver's side window regulator in my daughters 2004 330xi. Only the regulator and not the motor. I followed a procedure I found online and the window seems to work fine. However, the battery is now going dead over night. I found a couple of thread for re-initializing the window and done those procedures but I'm not sure if they are the right ones for the E46. So far they haven't worked. Battery is only 3 months old. Took it to auto store to check for dead cells. After charging the battery load test was good. Is there a known initializing procedure for this year model? What else could be causing the battery drain?

[MIKYZZ4]

Test for parasitic battery drain.
Here is an informative vid:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRso1A0VScw

[ptarditi]

Put the window all the way down, hold the button in the down position for the count of 5, put the window all the way up, hold the button in the up positio for a count of 5,lower the window approx 8 inches, return the window to the up position,hold the button up for 5, window should now work. The parasitic draw could be from something as simple as running one of the screws that hold the door panel on thru the one of your harnesses in the door.

[kriegtb]

Thanks ptarditi. I'll pull the panel and check for any potential wire pinches or shorts. I tried to very careful during reassembly. I'll also follow the procedure you listed. I'm assuming this is only required on the window I replaced the regulator on correct?

[MIKYZZ4]

Yes, you are performing the initial settings on the regulator you replaced.

[MauiM3Mania]

Moved from General BMW sub-forum.

[kriegtb]

I performed this procedure about 1 1/2 weeks ago and also checked for pinched wires and the car was good until today. Battery completely dead again. It must be a parasitic drain. Had no issues before changing the window regulator.

[MarcoZandrini]

How old is the battery?

[flyfishvt]

You have a bad battery or bad alternator or parasitic drain. You had the battery tested so next step is get the alternator tested and test for parasitic drain.

Just my gut feeling here but I bet you'll find it's a bad alternator. Only because you said they had to charge up the battery before they could test it.

[kriegtb]

Battery is 3 months old. I replace the alternator about a month ago and the onboard computer shows it charging at 14.2v. I think its a parasitic drain.

[MIKYZZ4]

Test for parasitic battery drain.
Here is an informative vid:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRso1A0VScw

As I was saying...

[kriegtb]

I fully charged the battery and drove it for about 30 miles. Parked for about an hour. I did the voltage drop test across the fuses to look for parasitic drain. Found 3 fuses with small voltage drop so I pulled those fuses and checked for amp draw through them. One was the Water valve/heater/AC fuse at 20mA, one was an AC fuse at 20mA and the other was the Passenger seat adjustment at 24mA. That would be a total amp draw of .06A. I don't think that would be enough to pull the battery down overnight is it? Unfortunately this could be an intermittent issue since one time in only lasted a day and then it lasted about 10 days.

[kriegtb]

I think I found the culprit but not sure what to change. Car was fine for about 2 weeks with my daughter driving it daily after starting back to school. Sat over the weekend and went dead. I charged the battery, pulled the negative terminal and inserted my amp meter between the terminal and negative post, let the car go to sleep mode which it did. Still had 0.4A draw. Started pulling fuses and it was the passenger seat adjustment fuse. I could hear a clicking noise from the back of the passenger seat when removing and inserting the fuse. Amp draw goes away when removing the fuse. Is there a module in the seat that can be bad?