Do you know what the German word on your licence plate means? http://www.dict.cc/deutsch-englisch/Zuh%C3%A4lter.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
It's a hummer 6.2 GM V8 diesel. Makes pretty good power in this thing.
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Here is a link to my build on it. Lots of pictures of what I did.
It's chevy engine transmission and a Dodge transfer case.
Specs are
6.2 L GM diesel
700R4 transmission
NP242HD
Lots of custom parts. Exhaust, transmission shifters and transfer case shifters.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum#/topics/266706?page=6
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Awesome! I used to frequent RR.net when I had my old P38. I've also owned an E32 750il. Seems we share similar taste.
Great to see the restorations on both vehicles.
Ben
Ok. I got the driveshaft out. I'm waiting on new u joints now. They were shot as well as the center supposed bearing.
The cats were plugged. I unplugged those with the help of a long metal bar. Lol
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Any progress on the driveline work? Kudos to you for rebuilding a shaft.
Also, I was browsing CL and found a non running 95 Soft Dash for $300 in Texas, just missing door cards. If only I could get out my way to drive there, but hey maybe you're interested lol.
Last edited by XAlt; 10-28-2017 at 11:39 AM.
Driveline ended up being a cluster.
I ordered. About 5 different ujoins. None of them fit.
Finally gave up and bought a used one off ebay. It was 50% decent. I had to put a new center carrier bearing on it.
Now it works fine. I've been driving it a little today.
I think my next move is new caps and rotors and fuel filters. Then it'll finally be completely tuned up.
I bought another 1991 750il for parts. I've stripped the front doors, fenders and hood and bumpers.
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I bought a 1991 750il the other day for $300. I needed the doors, hood, and some other miscellaneous parts from it. It came with the engine and transmission as well. All in running condition.
I sold the engine and transmission for $750.
I was swapping the doors today. They are about twice as heavy as mine. I rolled down the windows and it has "Bulletproof" windows.
Last edited by sawtooth4x4; 11-16-2017 at 11:59 PM.
Its double glazing for sound insulation, bulletproof windows would be about 5 times that thickness.
BTW do you still have that 750 parts car? I need a fuel tank and fuel sender if it isnt beyond rusted
Last edited by SergeBMW; 11-17-2017 at 12:00 AM.
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
yes, that is double glazing, but you can check the options the car came with with the VIN decoder https://www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/vin/decoder/online
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Hey Erich, how much work would be involved in swapping a regular window with a double glazed one? Im sure the window clips to regulator will need to be changed as well as the door panel, but is there anything else? I would love to eventually convert mine to double glazed. mmm donuts.....
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
we once did it on an Alpina B12, read this thread http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1108729/
inside that thread the link to the German forum does not work anymore, but I found it http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthr...oppelglasumbau
a lot of work, I would not do it again. But we had a complete parts car here with all the stuff, so we just tried it and it worked. Also consider that the car we did had not the newer doors with the side impact bar inside
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Ouch... Yea thats something I'll have to pass on, really not worth it for me then. I'll stick to swapping a 6 speed into the 750, seems easier lol
If you are going to do it, just find a donor car with matching paint. Then swap the doors.
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Gas tank is in good shape. No rust. Just some old gas. I need the fuel sending unit for mine, so I already took that off. I'm sure shipping it will probably suck. Let me know, because I plan on taking it to the crusher today or tomorrow. I just need to grab a few more parts off it.
Ross
three zero seven-899-1362
Whats your E32 M70 V12 750Il plug wires cost, i broke #8 wire at the plug connection and reinstalled it and it runs fine, so far....Call Mike @ (805) 709-3396 or E=Mail me @ hollandorangetoby@yahoo.com
I had the same Limp Mode problem and replaced a fuel pump to fix it
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I had the same Limp Mode problem and replaced a fuel pump to fix it
I've been reading in the forum about fuel pumps and such on the E32 V12's. So I pulled the pumps again, both are working, only one side is getting fuel. I ordered new fuel filters, should be here Monday. I also ordered some brass Y-Fittings, my plan is to cross link the fuel lines, so that no matter whats going on, both sides of the fuel rails will get fuel. I'll show the set up when I get all the parts in the mail.
I finally got it running good. I put two new fuel filters in it. Along with those new pumps. Then confirmed I was getting fuel pressure up to the engine. My buddy and I fired it up and took it for a quick drive. WOW, what a blast it was.
Limp mode Is it the pump or the filter? problem
He put in 2 new fuel pumps plus 2 new filters.
Both can be a problem, the fuel pumps fail differently. Some die slowly over years and get weaker and weaker, producing less volume and pressure over a long period, others die from 1 second to the other and are blocked.
I had that last year. Switched properly running engine off in the evening, started the engine next morning and one pump was dead blocked.
I changed both fuel pumps and tested the other working one, just to out of interest. Both were 28 !! years good old Bosch pumps, long time lasting.
But also the still working one I found out then had less pressure and less conveying volume compared to a new one I tested also for comparison.
28 years of wear took it's toll.
Fuel filters are wear parts and should be replaced in certain intervals anyway, Filters can be (partly) clogged from dirt, rust and other stuff inside the tank.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
This is an interesting thread. I had a 1988 750i for a while. I worked on it for a year. Replaced all the suspension parts and it drove very nicely. I replaced fan clutch and radiator when it began to leak. Almost got the A/C working. Then the water pump went. Then it started overheating and it was the water pump. I bought a new water pump. Removed all the bolts and parts to replace the water pump. I carefully reinserted the plumbing into the back of the block. A real pain in the behind. Started up the engine, and it leaked coolant. Sold the car, couldn't take anymore.
Mntelatici if thats all that got you pushed away from this car, man I wish you would be in my shoes or in someone elses lol, I think a lot of us long timers must be masochists because we keep going for more. I will say though, E38s are twice as a pain in the ass compared to the E32s.
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
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