I ordered some new Walbro fuel pumps. Should be here tomorrow
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After installation better check all fuel hoses in engine bay and at the fuel filters. When I changed to new fuel pumps, I found some leaks. The old fuel pumps had much less pressure at the end of their life than the new ones.
Even the fuel return line was leaking a bit below the fuel pressure regulators after installation of the new pumps.
You can test the pumps very easy, with ignition off use a jumper cable from B+ post and the other end onto the fuse in the fuse box for a second, then you can hear the fuel pumps running. On my 11/88 the fuses are 23 and 24 , called injection electronics.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I'll check that out. I got the Walbro pumps on Amazon for $75 shipped (for the pair). I'm sure I'll have to modify the connections a little, but that's not too hard.
I use these same pumps in Range Rovers all the time. They are very reliable and deliver good pressure. I usually have to modify the Range Rovers to work with these pumps as well. Its usually just some wiring and fuel lines inside the tank.
There's a couple lines under the expansion tank and the fuel pressure regulators and were the topic of a service bulletin\recall.
I got the fuel pumps installed. It runs great now.
This thing is FAST! It has an LSD. I won't tell you how I figure that out. Ha ha.
Anyway. On to the next things.
I'm guessing this car has a two piece driveshaft with a center bearing. Because it's knocking pretty good when I first accelerate.
So that's the only major mechanical problem left.
It rides smooth. Steering and suspension is nice and tight.
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when you replace the center bearing, do at the same time the engine mounts and trans mounts, then the driveline is straight again. Easy to get the the trans mounts then.
Here a DIY under driveline and transmission http://bmwe32.masscom.net/
engine mounts DIY is probably in here http://www.e38.org/e32/
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I keep getting a random EML light, I'm going to guess its a short in the wiring. Something to do with the passenger-side MAF. I'm trying to figure out if the plug is coming loose or there is something else going on.
In our wrenching group we had some cases where the outer sheath of the MAF wire loom cracked (now hard as stone after + 25 years) and cut into the single wires inside that loom. Also the plug cracks inside, the inner ring cracks, that is the case when you can pull off the wire loom without unscrewing the lock ring. New part is available from the dealer, but it is not listed under E32, looks like this http://www.bilder-speicher.de/shogun...1611783169.jpg
That plug is not shown in the parts catalog for E32, but I found it on other BMW models
up-to-date # 12521737668 MAF connector
old number was 1718126
Listed NOT for E32 and E31!!!!
PLUG HOUSING 7-POL 12521737668 $18.79
Part Cross-reference, Part 12521737668 (PLUG HOUSING) was found on the following vehicles:
E30 324d SEDAN, Euro, E30 324td SEDAN, Euro E30 324td TOURING, Euro E30 316i COUPE, Euro E30 316i TOURING, Euro E30 316i SEDAN, Euro, E30 318i SEDAN, Euro E30 318i COUPE, Euro E30 318i TOURING, Euro, E30 318i CONVERTIBLE, Euro E30 320i TOURING, Euro, E30 325i TOURING, Euro E30 325ix TOURING, Euro
E34 525i SEDAN, U.S. E34 524td SEDAN, Euro E34 518i SEDAN, Euro, E34 520i SEDAN, Euro E34 525i SEDAN, Euro E34 525td TOURING, Euro, E34 525td SEDAN, Euro E34 525tds TOURING, Euro, E34 525tds SEDAN, Euro
E36 316i SEDAN, Euro E36 318i SEDAN, Euro, E36 325td SEDAN, Euro E36 325tds SEDAN, Euro, Z1: Details on Z1 Z1 Z1 ROADSTER, Euro
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref....=on&showeur=on
Have about 10 pieces on stock here because all my friends are asking me where to get it.
Testing http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/MA...leshooting.htm http://www.ow.no/index.php?option=co...d=19&Itemid=13
Broken wire http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/644209/
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
One more thing I noticed and I have been trying to do some research on it.
The instrument cluster also told me
TRANSMISSION.
I checked fluid level and its right where it should be. Smells fine, and is the correct pinkish/red color. So I'm not sure whats going on there. It seems to shift smooth and I can manually engage all gears as well. I know these 4HP22 transmissions pretty well. They are pretty stout transmissions. I wonder if the control unit might be going bad? Would that also cause the EML to wig out?
forget about that, will most probably disappear when you fix the EML. that is just that the trans runs in limp mode because of the EML problem.
When the signal value sent by a sensor to the computer is not within a pre-programmed range specified by the manufacturer, it will switch to “secondary” programming. These procedures are designed to protect the transmission from further damage that could be caused by the signal error.
Last edited by shogun; 08-02-2017 at 07:30 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I'm getting code: 1222 Lamda
Do you know which side of the engine this refers to? Left or right? I'm thinking its the right side. Passenger-side USA? Anyone know for sure. If I can just figure out what side it might be affecting, I think I can track it down.
Thanks
Bank 1 (pass side)
Bank 2 codes will start with a 2, you have to stomp six times.
Last edited by XAlt; 08-03-2017 at 11:43 AM.
That does not mean the O2 sensor is the problem.
1222 - Lambda control fault code is produced when Motronic system in Bosch control unit receives signal indicating that air/fuel mixture is either excessively rich or excessively lean for period of time longer then 10 seconds. Majority of the causes that affect drivability of the car can be responsible for DME flashing this error:
•air leak
•defective MAF
•bad engine temperature sensor
•incorrect fuel pressure
•problem with injector(s)
•defective evaporation system
•empty gas tank
•issue with spark plugs
•problem with valves
Donut/Cylinder identification sensor
•etc.
Last edited by shogun; 08-03-2017 at 06:27 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
On some scanners with a 20 pin BMW connector it comes off as "O2 Control".
It essentially means that the oxygen sensors can't control the air fuel mixture (i.e vacuum leak or maf failure), and has reverted to a preset.
The car will start and then kill the injectors of the bank that has the MAF disconnected, check to see if it can idle steady with only the passenger bank connected. It will however run on a "bad" MAF that has connection.
Last edited by XAlt; 08-03-2017 at 08:20 PM.
Hello subject follow..
Yes, Koray, bookmark this thread, you can learn something for the problem with your M70.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Shogun ok I need to fix these when I buy a new hose Thank you
I haven't updated for a while. I've been on vacation and just got home yesterday.
I did the stomp test with 5 peddle presses and 6 peddle presses.
I got codes
1222
And
2222
Lambda
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Ok. So somehow the fuse had blown For one of the fuel pumps. It's running fine now. Plenty of power.
Now I will replace the center bearing on the driveshaft and drive it for awhile.
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Working on the center bearing for the driveshaft tonight. I was able to get the center exhaust out without to much of a fight. The cat was shot on the right bank. So I knocked it and the left side out. I'll sell the crap on eBay to fund some other parts.
Just need to remove the heat shield and driveshaft next.
Pictures tomorrow I'm knackered.
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mmm RR Classic
215 or the later 4.0/4.2?
My Range Rover is a 1993 LWB. It had a 4.2 L.
It now has a 6.2 L diesel.
I actually have a 1995 LWB and a 1987 parts truck as well.
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6.2 diesel????
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