Weird scenario -- anyone with tips or possible solutions, please chime-in! Here's the scoop:
Called AAA for a jump on June 5th, original battery determined dead, new AAA battery installed. June 27th, same problem: no power/car won't start -- same AAA guy returns, determines June 5th battery is faulty and swaps with new one. He checks that alternator is properly charging battery (it is).
It's now July 8th, and AGAIN car won't start/no battery power! AAA back for jump start -- this time he notices his instruments indicate the car is "on" even when it's actually turned completely off. Thinks there's a slow battery drain/discharge happening.
I take it to my indy mechanic -- he spends a week dicking around, testing. Can't pinpoint the problem, but is convinced the alternator is worn and causing the slow battery drain when the car is off. We agree to try replacing the alternator, I pick it up, all seems rosy -- but two days later, the battery is dead.
AAA has refunded the battery cost, and I'm taking the car back to my mechanic on Monday, so he can run further tests and replace the AAA battery with a brand he recommends.
Anyone run into this before? What could possibly be the underlying problem here?
Thanks.
E53 most common draws and how common:
final stage blower resistor#1
TCU#2
Aux fan #3
radio #4
technically anything could cause a draw but I'd bet your issue is one of these 4 items.
your truck stays awake for 16 minutes after key off which is normal. After 16 minutes your draw should be 40Milliamps or less but usually normal is around 15-20. You can't always go by the shifter light staying on as I have seen plenty that go out after 16 minutes but some that do stay on and be in the closed circuit current spec...
and yes AAA batteries are junk.
Last edited by SlackTube; 07-21-2017 at 07:17 PM.
Thanks SlackTube -- excellent info/places to start.
The subtle whirring/electronic sound that comes from the dash (near the radio/onboard computer) when you open a door also happens randomly when no one's in the vehicle. I've recently heard it in the quiet of my garage when I'm walking by one of the open windows. I wonder if that's related to the battery drain....
Last edited by M3rocket; 07-21-2017 at 08:28 PM.
Here is an informative video,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRso1A0VScw
Not a BMW-but applies to all vehicles
Thanks. Yeah, I've checked out a few YouTube videos on parasitic battery drain. Tonight I used my digital multi-meter and confirmed there is an amp draw on the battery of approximately .40 when the X5 is completely off. So, I went thru the tedious process of pulling and replacing each fuse in both fuse boxes (glovebox and trunk), but there was no drop in amperage drain. I started with the most likely culprits -- blower, radio, etc. -- but no change, then went thru ALL the fuses one-by-one. Still no change/drop in the amp reading -- sh#%! Left the negative battery cable disconnected overnight -- heading back to my mechanic in the morning to dig deeper.
To be continued....
Last edited by M3rocket; 07-24-2017 at 01:01 AM.
Update: mechanic still has my X5 -- has been running many tests, but still can't pinpoint the parasitic battery drain culprit. Anyone have any other thoughts/brainstorms?
I No offense but your mechanic sucks.
he first couldn't find an obvious draw that you yourself found, now he cant " pinpoint" your draw when anybody that can use a multimeter and have a few hours technically can find it.
its nearly impossible to walk you through the process of finding your draw online but refer to post 2. Pulling fuses won't do anything except for maybe the radio.
disconnect your blower RESISTOR. Disconnect your TCU. Disconnect your Aux fan. Disconnect your alternator, disconnect your radio, if these things are disconnected ( not the fuses ) then it's unlikely you'll find an answer online as it will require actual knowledgeable mechanic to diagnose it.
good luck boss but find another mechanic. Should be found within a few hours...
another good tip is DO NOT DISCONNECT your fuses. Instead read the millivolts across the fuse. You have to poke each fuse multiple times to get an accurate reading as it's very sensitive but any reading higher than .2 or .3 is most likely a problem and don't forget your rear fuse box!
No offense taken -- but I beg to differ, and to be fair, he's not charging me by the hour to diagnose the problem.
I checked yesterday with my other indy BMW mechanic and he's offering to look at it for an hour at $140, then go from there -- and admits these electrical drains can be sometimes hard to pinpoint, which could add up $$ very fast.
So, I'm giving my first guy the benefit of the doubt. He's been keeping the truck for an extended time to be able to let it sit "off" for a couple days at a time (during which he's given me a 325ci loaner at no charge). He's narrowed it down to the Radio and NAV circuits. With those two fuses pulled, the truck has been starting up even after a three-day sit.
He's also going to check if the BMW Aux kit I installed on the radio/CD player in Feb 2015 has anything to do with the drain, although odd that it took two-plus years to rear it's ugly head! I'll report back when I know more. Thanks for the input.
Any update?
Update: second BMW mechanic cannot find the source of the battery draw. X5 goes to sleep as it should. He's noticed the instrument panel gauges come on randomly -- temp gauge, etc. Has found some computer error codes relating to the instrument cluster, so believes the cluster needs to be replaced. BMW charges $1,600 for the part! So, $2,000 out the door, but with no guarantee it solves the problem. I'm walking away -- and maybe time to sell. It's been over a month, and two mechanics, with no clear solution.
Another update: Picked-up the X5 today -- I'm looking into a used cluster for $100 (via my mechanic's trade price), but it would have to be programmed. Am told that's about 100 bucks at the dealership. Also, looking into cluster repair service (approx $380) of my cluster, which wouldn't have to be programmed.
Details of diagnostic: after vehicle goes to sleep, my cluster temp gauge has been seen coming on randomly by itself and swept back and forth several times before turning back off. Found faults for CAN communication to instrument cluster in both the engine and transmission computers. So, 90% sure it's the culprit for battery drain.
I dunno bro. I would think that something is randomly sending the cluster a message to kick on. I would think that a cluster isn't a brain, just a bunch of gauges.
Just tellin' what the BMW tech recommended.
Another update: two BMW dealerships I called said they won't install/program a used instrument cluster -- one said it's against the law, the other said it wouldn't work anyway, since clusters are tied to the VIN. So, I'm looking into BBA Remanufacturing and another recommendation for repairing my cluster.
Last edited by M3rocket; 08-30-2017 at 07:11 PM.
Update on my parasitic battery drain:
After two bimmer mechanics couldn't pinpoint the problem (the second was 90% sure it's the instrument cluster), I've had the X5 sitting in my garage for about three weeks with the 5-amp Fuse 75 pulled (MID, Nav, On-board Monitor, Sound System) and it's started/run just fine after one-, two-, three-, and four-day "sleep" intervals -- so I think I'm onto something. I went back to the MID because of the intermittent "ramp-up" sound I'd hear when in the garage and the car was supposedly asleep. It's like the MID starts its initialize process randomly, without the door(s) or anything being opened.
So, I'm assuming I need to swap-out the radio/sound system unit (if I want my music back!). Anyone got a good source for used/pre-owned bimmer sound systems? Thanks.
Yep, like "peter2772000," I'm inclined to believe something like the MID is randomly kicking on (hence the random electronic sound in the dash when car is asleep) because with fuse 75 pulled, the car has been starting fine. No apparent battery drain over long non-run periods (up to 4-day sit times tested so far). Today, I put the multi-meter back on the battery, and with fuse 75 out, the reading dropped to .02 amps once the car went to sleep. With fuse 75 in, the lowest it dropped was .14 amps once asleep -- so that indicates a .12 amp draw.
Question is, if I purchase a pre-owned radio/receiver and swap it out, will it solve the problem? I'm finding them on eBay for about $180. The pixels on my display are shot, so that would also be an improvement.
Anyone care to weigh-in further w/words o' wisdom?
Thanks for playing along! This has been more of a PITA than I bargained for....
Are you using an aftermarket amp with unswitched power-constant on?
Also, does there happen to be an app installed in NAV that updates before the 16min sleep mode is able to take effect?
Now I'm stumped and out of options,
I would guess you can replace or send the unit out for service.
Reading thru this, I would also recommend you unplug each unit on F75, one at a time, and check the drain. With the car asleep of course. We see this in the E38 forums a great deal. The MID, CD changer, NAV unit in dash and trunk, are on F75. If nothing changes, you have a wiring issue. In the E38, water gets in the truck area when the NAV and CD unit reside causing issues with either the unit or comb splices. Look for a splice with red/white wires.
On the IKE, you won't find a dealer willing to code a used to the car. It should work fine other than a tamper dot. The VIN needs to be matched up with the LCM, which also stores the mileage. Perhaps a local member has PA Soft to match them up. NCS will code it to the car. I've swapped clusters in a handful of E38's with no issue. Seems like I had a DSC light on one before coding.
Just my .02.
Thanks. I may be getting pointers from someone on Xoutpost forum on how to unplug these various components to see which may be the culprit. Also, another member suggested I rethink the battery replacement -- that perhaps both AAA batteries installed have caused the problem, since there was no problem prior to their installation. I may swap out for an Interstate to see if problem goes away....
IMG_1453.JPG
As soon as I have time, I'll pull the Radio/MID unit, then the Business CD -- unplugging each separately while checking the amp draw. Will report back with my findings.
Eureka! For those of you following this thread, I've pinpointed the culprit of my parasitic battery drain -- the Radio/MID.
With Fuse 75 re-installed -- when I disconnected the Radio/MID with the car asleep, the reading dropped from .14 amp to normal .02 amp.
Needless to say, I'm going to have a conversation with the two shops that couldn't locate the problem, especially the one that was 90% sure it was the Instrument Cluster. Fortunately, I only spent $115 on their diagnostic and didn't go any further.
Thanks to all who chimed-in with ideas and advice! Some of the first posts suggested the Radio as one of the top four culprits.
Wow, glad you got it figured out. So what's next, replace the radio?
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