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Thread: Anybody use a scissor lift on their e21?

  1. #1
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    Anybody use a scissor lift on their e21?

    Hey guys. Been searching lifts lately as one would come in handy a lot with all the work I'm doing. I am wondering if anyone has used the scissor style lift on their e21? Specifically the harbor freight scissor lift (https://www.harborfreight.com/6000-l...ift-91315.html). Just wondering if its worth it and if the lifting points line up with the e21 jack points as well. Thanks!
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  2. #2
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    I have one I've been using for years. I bought it used on Craigslist for about 1/3 that price. They've been making them for years so they're not that hard to find.
    As far as their usefulness goes, it's not much. No undercar work, no engine dropping, no exhaust work, nothing but wheel work and body work. One thing it's really good for is working under the dash. Saves your back a little bit.

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  3. #3
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    Well that's good to know. I have seen underside pictures of cars on these lifts and it seems there would still be enough room for exhaust work for piecing together a custom setup. Or if anything, drive the car up onto some 2x6's or 2x12's and use higher lift pads to space the lift from the underside of the car more? Just thinking out loud.
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  4. #4
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    Do you have limited headroom in your garage? If so a Max Jax bought through Costco with free shipping costs about 2,000 bucks and lifts the car up about 5 feet in the air. Then you use an office chair to roll around underneath there. I think it's more comfortable than using a real lift.
    2000 bucks will also buy you a lot of regular 9000 lb lift if you have the room.

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  5. #5
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    Portable too...

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  6. #6
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    For that price I'd buy used. It won't give underside clearance as mentioned above. If was spending that kinda loot look at a maxjax instead. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6167_200386167

    But honestly for cost if just want adequate height using a standard 2-3/4 good floor jack, then just buy 4; 6ton jack stands. They get plenty high and stable enough for all kinds of work. If need even more stable can weld on base plates.
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  7. #7
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    I looked into the MaxJax as well. The problem with my garage is the width. Putting up the MaxJax would not allow another car to park next to it in my 2 car garage as that post would get in the way. I wouldn't have the ability to roll that one post out of the way every time I am done working as the car would stay on the lift most of the time (long term projects). Nor would I want to keep having to bolt it down and unbolt it every day. This is why I figured the mid-rise lift would be better as it would be under the car all the time no matter what. I wish I could make the MaxJax work, believe me.
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    For that price I'd buy used. It won't give underside clearance as mentioned above. If was spending that kinda loot look at a maxjax instead. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6167_200386167

    But honestly for cost if just want adequate height using a standard 2-3/4 good floor jack, then just buy 4; 6ton jack stands. They get plenty high and stable enough for all kinds of work. If need even more stable can weld on base plates.
    This is how I have built a dozen cars or more over the years. I have 8 6 ton jacks, currently two cars up off the wheels.

    Currently doing suspension and front bumper work on the Run About - the red jacks in the front are only 2 ton, they are my track day carry a longs.

    front 3.jpg front 2.jpg rear 5.jpg
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 07-19-2017 at 07:58 PM.

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  9. #9
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    Yes that is how I work on cars as well, jack with stands at all 4 corners. It just gets old/annoying having to get down on the creeper, slide under, measure (or whatever you are working on), slide back out, get up, go to workbench, repeat.
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  10. #10
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    I am thinking of the quick jack system. It's basically the same as you posed above but its 2 pieces and allows you to work freely under the car.
    QuickJack-Lift-Complete-System.png

  11. #11
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    Cool

    No, I use Lynx Levelers( rated to 40,000 lbs) and have a set of slotted hockey pucks to use factory jack up points.

    Randy

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pofo View Post
    I am thinking of the quick jack system. It's basically the same as you posed above but its 2 pieces and allows you to work freely under the car.
    QuickJack-Lift-Complete-System.png
    These didn't seem to lift the car as high as the other options when I was researching them.
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  13. #13
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    I have had bad experiences with these types of lift at tire shops. I have had the floors of a couple of my E21s bent up as well as the pinch welds of the cars. And like has been said you can not do much with these - change tires and work on brakes as you can not get in and out from the sides.
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 07-20-2017 at 10:51 AM.

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    I have had bad experiences with these types of lift at tire shops. I have had the floors of a couple of my E21s bent up as well as the pinch welds of the cars. And like has been said you can not do much with these - change tires and work on brakes as you can not get in and out from the sides.
    Which design are you talking about Old Man? scissor lift or the quick jack that pofo posted?
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bassboy3313 View Post
    Yes that is how I work on cars as well, jack with stands at all 4 corners. It just gets old/annoying having to get down on the creeper, slide under, measure (or whatever you are working on), slide back out, get up, go to workbench, repeat.
    Yup also annoying when drowning in spilt beer. Keep a portable phone under there or ghetto walkie. Push button away for the lady assist upstairs. Especially if things go bad like trapped under a transmission.

    All in all 6ton stands are the way to go though unless a maxjax or full size lift. Only I do like the engine stand rig we made, but it's more for a fully stripped down car weight wise. The overhead hoist helps with this though. Cause overhead welding on jack stands sucks no matter how you slice it.
    88 M3
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  16. #16
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    If you can find me a jack and stands that can lift a car 4.5-5 feet in the air safely enough to work underneath it, I'd be all for it.
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  17. #17
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    upinair 3.jpg

    This worked as long as it was not suspension work.


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  18. #18
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    And how did you lift it up there?
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  19. #19
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    This was at an old job, we had a rolling single leg 5,000# hydraulic lift.

    I was just teasing you - Sorry

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  20. #20
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    Its all good. Looks like that came in handy big time tho. I just need to lift my car up as high as I can in the smallest foot print possible. I need to measure again to see if I can get the MaxJax to work and still allow a car to park in other garage stall with adequate room to open door and such.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I did find a local scissor/mid-rise lift on craigslist for $900. He had a new hydraulic line made to extend the hose distance twice as far which would put the pump unit out of the way too. Tempting.
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by bassboy3313 View Post
    These didn't seem to lift the car as high as the other options when I was researching them.
    I agree they dont go as high but 21" witch is not that bad compared to traditional jack stands.

  22. #22
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    I have been using a rotary rmr6 mid rise lift for the e21. I am putting an in-ground lift in and selling the mid-rise scissor lift. The rotary rmr6 lift worked out great for the e21.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Picture of the lift:
    http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/in...;attach=174809
    Last edited by charter21p5; 07-20-2017 at 08:17 PM.

  23. #23
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    Thanks!

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    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  24. #24
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    Sure, if you or anyone else reading this thread decides to get the rotary lift make sure when you use it you back your car over it and also make sure the rear lift arms are under the subframe when aligning the pads up with the mount points. This is required so you aren't crushing gas tanks. It then works flawlessly and you can park your car over it making it seem there isn't a lift in the garage. HTH.

  25. #25
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    I highly recommend getting the BendPak LR-60. I bought one a couple years ago and its the greatest investment ive ever made. I think its better than a two post because it doesnt take up space when not being used. you can park a car over/near it without worrying about door dings. and its lifts high enough to drop an engine out the bottom.





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