Engine help!

[kerrypow]

Hi,

So I'm female and not a mechanic and am now on my 3rd garage trying to resolve an issue with my 2003 318 estate. I've read heaps of threads on here with seemingly the same issue but no-one will listen to me at the garages as I've said it sounds like the cam/crank sensor.

I've had the oil level sensor replaced and this is where the problems started. This lead to a new mass air flow meter and more recently a rocker cover gasket to fix an oil leak. The car initially was fine apart from the oil leak and a code for oil sensor which is where I was told the leak was coming from and knock sensors which went off and didn't come back on after I cleared them and kept an eye on the oil. After getting the sensor replaced which didn't fix the leak, the car started to cut out when braking down to second.

It now cuts out when the engine is up to mid way on the temperature gauge, generally when I am slowing down or running at lower speeds. The revs seem low and I have to keep pumping the accelerator when waiting at the lights. Sometimes there are no revs at all and even when press the accelerator when pulling out on a junction or roundabout sometimes theres just nothing but the engine hasn't cut. It only does this when hot but it hates reverse most of the time.

It's just passed the MOT and I thought would fail on emissions as have been told its not burning fuel efficiently but this was fine - the MPG is dropping slowly but surely and has dropped again since the rocker gasket replacement. I've put it back in and he's replaced the spark plugs and not changed a thing.

The garage is currently suggesting changing the timing chain tensioner, kit £115 +vat (have seen them cheaper but don't know quality etc) +fitting. There is a rattle when it starts up which he's sure is due to this but I've also read on several threads that this disappeared when the cam/crank sensor was replaced. I really want to try the crank sensor that seems to be all over the forums as an issue... Anybody got any ideas? Not really in the position now to get a new set of wheels but equally cant keep pumping money into this.... I know I will need to do the timing change eventually but it sounds horribly expensive and I'm frightened it wont fix the issue.

Can anyone help? Just not sure where to go with it now - except to try and get a push bike!!

[MIKYZZ4]

See if you can find anybody in your area who can perform a diagnostic scan with BMW specific software,
Heck, even a scan with a generic scan tool would seem to be more helpful than your present garage.

[floydr]

That's a model we in the States (and CA) didn't see. Hopefully someone from the UK/EU will reply with some pointers, but you might seek out the bimmerfest or other European-focussed forums.

One thing I noticed - a diesel (you say 318d is your car) does not have spark plugs: what's up with that?

I'm just not sure that we have a detailed-enough description to help you at this time. Just remember, if it's truely a 2003 E46 it's a 15-year-old car and things do go wrong...

[kerrypow]

Hi,

thanks for replies. It's 318i and isnt showing any fault codes other then the knock sensor ATM.

[MIKYZZ4]

That fault code is a P-xxxx code, yes?

[kerrypow]

Yes is P code.

[MIKYZZ4]

Generic P-code scan tools are somewhat useless and sometimes misleading,
as they can't communicate with the multitude of BMW computer modules contained in your vehicle.
A BMW specific diagnostic tool/software can communicate with all BMW computers,
and reveal BMW specific error codes that otherwise couldn't be displayed.
Maybe you can locate a local BMW enthusiast or car club to help you.

[legoman67]

randomly cutting out is a symptom of a bad cam position sensor, and sometimes it will not throw a code.

Sounds like you need a new shop to look at this car. Try to find one that specializes in BMW as they will likely have the proper knowledge and equipment to diagnose your issues.

[Nottsknots]

Hi,

So I'm female and not a mechanic and am now on my 3rd garage trying to resolve an issue with my 2003 318 estate. I've read heaps of threads on here with seemingly the same issue but no-one will listen to me at the garages as I've said it sounds like the cam/crank sensor.

I've had the oil level sensor replaced and this is where the problems started. This lead to a new mass air flow meter and more recently a rocker cover gasket to fix an oil leak. The car initially was fine apart from the oil leak and a code for oil sensor which is where I was told the leak was coming from and knock sensors which went off and didn't come back on after I cleared them and kept an eye on the oil. After getting the sensor replaced which didn't fix the leak, the car started to cut out when braking down to second.

It now cuts out when the engine is up to mid way on the temperature gauge, generally when I am slowing down or running at lower speeds. The revs seem low and I have to keep pumping the accelerator when waiting at the lights. Sometimes there are no revs at all and even when press the accelerator when pulling out on a junction or roundabout sometimes theres just nothing but the engine hasn't cut. It only does this when hot but it hates reverse most of the time.

It's just passed the MOT and I thought would fail on emissions as have been told its not burning fuel efficiently but this was fine - the MPG is dropping slowly but surely and has dropped again since the rocker gasket replacement. I've put it back in and he's replaced the spark plugs and not changed a thing.

The garage is currently suggesting changing the timing chain tensioner, kit £115 +vat (have seen them cheaper but don't know quality etc) +fitting. There is a rattle when it starts up which he's sure is due to this but I've also read on several threads that this disappeared when the cam/crank sensor was replaced. I really want to try the crank sensor that seems to be all over the forums as an issue... Anybody got any ideas? Not really in the position now to get a new set of wheels but equally cant keep pumping money into this.... I know I will need to do the timing change eventually but it sounds horribly expensive and I'm frightened it wont fix the issue.

Can anyone help? Just not sure where to go with it now - except to try and get a push bike!!

Sounds like you need someone who actually has a clue about BMW's. Some good indies in here (one near Truro seems local-ish to you)
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...?t=796191#tab0

Cant say I have any experience of them, but the indies near me are all good. The comment indicates they have proper diagnostics, which sounds like what you need - most non-BMW specialists dont have the right kit to diagnose beemers properly, which leads to a world of pain (which sounds like where you are).

Good luck.

[Nottsknots]

Hi,

So I'm female and not a mechanic and am now on my 3rd garage trying to resolve an issue with my 2003 318 estate. I've read heaps of threads on here with seemingly the same issue but no-one will listen to me at the garages as I've said it sounds like the cam/crank sensor.

I've had the oil level sensor replaced and this is where the problems started. This lead to a new mass air flow meter and more recently a rocker cover gasket to fix an oil leak. The car initially was fine apart from the oil leak and a code for oil sensor which is where I was told the leak was coming from and knock sensors which went off and didn't come back on after I cleared them and kept an eye on the oil. After getting the sensor replaced which didn't fix the leak, the car started to cut out when braking down to second.

It now cuts out when the engine is up to mid way on the temperature gauge, generally when I am slowing down or running at lower speeds. The revs seem low and I have to keep pumping the accelerator when waiting at the lights. Sometimes there are no revs at all and even when press the accelerator when pulling out on a junction or roundabout sometimes theres just nothing but the engine hasn't cut. It only does this when hot but it hates reverse most of the time.

It's just passed the MOT and I thought would fail on emissions as have been told its not burning fuel efficiently but this was fine - the MPG is dropping slowly but surely and has dropped again since the rocker gasket replacement. I've put it back in and he's replaced the spark plugs and not changed a thing.

The garage is currently suggesting changing the timing chain tensioner, kit £115 +vat (have seen them cheaper but don't know quality etc) +fitting. There is a rattle when it starts up which he's sure is due to this but I've also read on several threads that this disappeared when the cam/crank sensor was replaced. I really want to try the crank sensor that seems to be all over the forums as an issue... Anybody got any ideas? Not really in the position now to get a new set of wheels but equally cant keep pumping money into this.... I know I will need to do the timing change eventually but it sounds horribly expensive and I'm frightened it wont fix the issue.

Can anyone help? Just not sure where to go with it now - except to try and get a push bike!!

Try one of the BMW specialists in here - they're generally reputable, and have the right kit to diagnose beemers properly.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...?t=796191#tab0

[MarcoZandrini]

I see you're in Cornwall. I'd contact members of the British equivalent of the BMW Car Club of America to ask for shop recommendations. I'd avoid dealers like the proverbial plague as they tend to be expensive. The car needs to be scanned with the proper diagnostic software. Do you own a smartphone or a tablet? You can download the OBDFusion app. It comes in iOS and android flavors. iOS needs a wifi interface adaptervwith android uses Bluetooth. The adapter plugs into the obd2 port under the dash. Go to E46Fanatics and search for threads on OBDfusion in which jfoj has commented. He's the guru.

[Junglenut]

Sounds like you are on the right track with the camshaft sensor. You could try to check it with an ohm meter to see if it gives a reading.

Your car could also have a crankshaft sensor, a similar test on that sensor could also help.

The timing chain tensioner should be ok as long it is still in the engine.

If the tests of the cam and crank sensor yeild positive results check into other things that are related to ignition.

[kerrypow]

Thank you all for your answers. I'll keep investigating and maybe check my 4th garage!!

[kerrypow]

Thanks I'll give this a try