Problems I could use some help with: 1999.5 z3 roadster, 2.8 inline 6 cylinder
THe car had a crunched hood, broken plastic air dams/front bumper cover/ auxiliary fan, the ASC/DSC light was constantly on, steering wheel wobbled on braking....
Soooooo.... I bought a parts car
I put new front brakes and rotors..... fixed most of problem but still likely need to do rear brakes as well.
switched out hood, bumper cover, broken plastics and painted, switched out yaw sensor......
Got ASC/DSC light to go out, but comes back on. I think it needs calibrating because it comes back on and goes off if I jack up one side of the car..... I've got the cable and adapter for my laptop ordered from ebay and hoping to download all the software to read and calibrate this darned thing.
Then the red battery light comes on yesterday. I switched alternators yesterday evening and it didn't fix the problem. I replaced the battery and seems to be good so far.
Now to the most consternating problem: The cursed thing is now making a rattle when I shift (sounds like something is moving up and down, basically two knocks), AND it has developed a slight wobble in the steering wheel which is most pronounced about 25-40 mph.
I have researched this and think it may be my center support bearing or driveshaft universal joints. I am hoping it's not universal joints because I don't want to part with 700 MORE $ that I'll have invested in this car. It's hot in the south where I live and I've been working my rear off in the heat trying to get this car RIGHT, and it's getting me upset with all the maintenance crap and electrical sensitive b.s. This is my first bmw and I'm getting a little annoyed with my decision to get a German car. The engine that I've adored so well with the smooth power and great acceleration is not seeming as strong anymore, also. Maybe I'm just getting accustomed to it, but I don't think so.
What I'd like to hear (I took a cursory look at the flex disc/driveshaft coupler yesterday) is what you guys think this rattle is that has suddenly appeared on shifting, along with the steering wheel wobble......
I bought this car for 2300$, and a parts car for 1350$.... I don't have a lot of cash to throw around chasing the solution, although at 117k miles, I realize that it's due to start having maintenance issues. I'm willing, but just want to get a few miles behind the wheel of my new "investment". I bought the car in order to have a sporty, fun, cheap, not bad on fuel type car to tool around in. I've been doing a lot of "tooling around" under/beside it, rather than in the driver's seat. I'd sure like to isolate this problem and have some insight as to what you guys who are experienced Z3 owners might consider is the likely source of the problem. No doubt something is moving up and down during the shift when power is taken off the driveline by the clutch being depressed. I am just hoping it's not internal. And I really don't want to have to switch driveshafts since my parts car won't move due to an electrical problem that the previous owner had and caused him to sell it.... Not being able to move it around easily makes it a pain to get under.
Thanks, and sorry for the long post...
Oh, and stupid question--- do all z3's have the "m" and stripes on the shifter knob, and the m/stripes on the bottom of the steering wheel? Mine is not an M, and I don't understand why it's there on the shifter and steering wheel.....
Yes to the stripes; makes it confusing to new owners, but at least it sounds like you already have a leg up and know the difference.
Don't lose sight that you did buy a wrecked car, and you're earning that BMW driver's delight with sweat-equity (some of us, that've been around here long enough, paid over $50k__$52k with taxes, etc.__to get that same feeling by buying them new). Given your effort, you'll get there, but don't give up yet
Your new-found rattle could well be the center-support bearing; I just changed one for a somewhat local guy (he carried in the driveshaft loose) because his had torn the support diaphragm. Don't overlook the snap-ring in there, and mark the 2-piece driveshaft before separating the halves at the slip-joint.
Until you can hook up a diagnostic program, you'll keep chasing your tail on fault codes, and you'll get plenty of support on here with that if you need it.
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Oh! The steering wheel wobble; that was what prompted me to respond in the first place!
Inspect the column real good, as quite recently, someone on here had one break on them!! In their case, a bracket had been rubbing on one of the corrugations, and it cut through as if it was turned on a lathe. If yours shows any marks on it, or is not absolutely straight, replace it!
Not meaning to contradict Randy, but here is my (believed stock) four-spoke 1997 2.8 Z3 wheel and shifter (prior to replacement of the latter). No M badging:
img_002652.jpg
Someone may have replaced yours or maybe it was ordered with M items when new?
Not all Z3's, but many came with an ///M wheel, I can't remember whether it was all after a certain production date, or if it was a trim package with sport seats, but it is a fairly common question in these parts. Some unfortunate souls bought their Z3 thinking it was an ///M on this account.
Facelift non M came with the M steering wheel. But not the shifter IIRC.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
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Please follow Randy's suggestion. My own 2¢ is that you thoroughly inspect the front suspension, maybe get a pry bar involved to check for play, inspect all the fasteners you may have touched, and inspect the front wheels, lugs, tires, etc for damage. Also maybe check the strut towers.
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I'm feeling a lot better. I got my car on my buddy's lift today. I have bad lower control arm bushings which is undoubtedly causing the steering wheel wobble. My new front brakes are good, needing to do rear, though. I changed my manual tranny fluid with the amsoil synchromesh. Old fluid didn't look bad, but will report after a little driving. I still have a little clunk when shifting, but there was nothing bad about the flex disc, I don't feel love he the center support is bad after a little driving lately. I think I'm just not accustomed to a BMW manual transmission. It may be strong, but in all honesty, it's the roughest shifting manual I've ever driven. My first car was an '86 Isuzu 4x4 pickup and it's clutch and transmission were silky compared to this thing. My buddy's 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse had the smoothest manual transmission I've ever driven.
This BMW has easily the worst. But I still like the car and am beginning to get it sorted out and am enjoying it. I changed the oil and used a paper lip to reset the oil life lights..... that was handy:
I've got contracts l arm bushings in the way and after I do the rear diff fluid change, get the transverse acc sensor calibrated, and the passenger seat bushings, I truly believe this will be a well sorted car.
I'm thinking I will get used to the tranny and get a lot of enjoyment out of. This thing. I can't say it's a hard car to work on st all. Just a steep learning curve, particularly on the electronics.
I am looking forward to new bushings. I think that will make a huge difference in the feel of the driving experience. I live the little 2.8, although I'm only getting about 23 mpg. I was hoping for a little p. I've read on here some get 30mpg/-- I think they're delusional lol.
Thx for the responses. I'm thankful that I'm not having the pull the tranny and deal with the dual mass flywheel/-- yet.
I think when I pull it I'll likely change to a solid flywheel and do the shift pins and rear main seal along with flex disc and complete driveline. Hoping I might get a few thousand mikes behind me on this car first.
So did you change the yaw sensor, or the transverse accel sensor?
Yaw sensor doesn't get calibrated, but the transverse accel does.
Was the yaw sensor swap a guess? Unless you needed to change both, which I would think a bit unusual.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
My m shifted very poorly until I replaced the clutch slave line and slave. Now it shifts smooth like my 64 Chevelle SS used to. Rev matching really helps too but yeah the shifter seems sloppy compared to the old Hurst 4 speed.
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