Radiator????

[schwerdt1]

What are people using on a 325is with 5.0 swap for radiator? We tried using the stock BMW with electric fan, and its running hot.

[Pelican Parts]

I'd upgrade to more of a 'race' style radiator similar to the link below and upgrade the fan as well.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3

[JBasham]

This is what I used, for a track car that runs hot as the devil.

Jegs 555-52017 which is a 26X19 street rod radiator with Ford-positioned connections. Check Ponchiz's thread, where I posted some photos of the mounts and positioning. The stock Mustang radiator hose works for the top, with a little trim. For the bottom, I just bought a flex hose with a steel braid jacket in the right size and length. It uses a pressure cap and a puke tank. Doesn't need a reserve/expansion tank.

For the fan, I used the Volvo fan that's recommended on the jagsthatrun web page for the 302/e36 swap. I bought a new one, without the Volvo shroud. It will screw right into the stock E36 shroud for an air-conditioned car in place of the stock fan motor and blade. Then the e36 shroud and flashing all mounts up in the usual way.

The radiator is thicker than stock, so it uses up the space of both the stock radiator and the AC radiator. There is still plenty of clearance to the serpentine belt.

I used the Volvo fan relay to power it, and a cheapo push-through probe adjustable thermostat to control it. The fan pulls more current than the stock fan wiring can handle. I fed the Volvo relay with power right off the alternator/B+ terminal through an auto-reset breaker. I originally tried to use the BMW stock two-speed radiator temp sensor to switch the relay, by screwing it into the radiator drain port with an adapter. DIDN'T WORK; the adapter wound up buffering the temperature. I'm sure it would work fine if I had mounted the sensor in the upper rad hose.

[MikeJTR]

I originally tried to use the BMW stock two-speed radiator temp sensor to switch the relay, by screwing it into the radiator drain port with an adapter. DIDN'T WORK; the adapter wound up buffering the temperature. I'm sure it would work fine if I had mounted the sensor in the upper rad hose.

You are correct about the mounting position of the coolant fan switch affecting the operation of the electric cooling fan.

This is a shameless plug.
We have an aluminum hose tee with the 14mm x 1.5p for the BMW fan switch.
When it is installed in the upper radiator hose, the fan will stay on longer as it measures the temperature of the coolant coming out of the engine.

See this link:
http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_T...rass-Tees.html

[Tim Mc]

Good stuff! Thanks.

[JBasham]

This is a shameless plug.

A little relevant advertising of a useful part seems like a fair trade for the free info you host about the swap, like the Volvo fan.

P.S. I'm loving the drive shaft/differential conversion plate. Please make it in 6-hole as well as 4-hole! I need one.

[schwerdt1]

Watch "5.0 BMW" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/ueRZaC40sEE

Larger Ford radiator is in now. Hot here near Dallas. Ran it couple miles, only got up to bout 195° on gauge!

[ponchiz318]

I ran a 26"X19"(pretty sure that's the size) eBay two row radiator which inlet tube had to be moved to the side. It came with a 16" spal fan but I've only seen it come on a couple of times. I wired it to the Ford ccrm unit so that might be an issue. I haven't driven the car more than a couple of miles but have let it get to operating temperature. I need to run a aftermarket temp gauge to make sure it's ok and I'm thinking of doing an aftermarket relay. If this doesn't help, I'll look into either mounting the fan in the auxiliary shroud or going with the Volvo fan. My stock e36 temp gauge sits just above halfway when driving so I'm assuming it might be ok. Once I get my registration done I'll definitely drive the car around more and see if my cooling is adequate or I need to make changes.

[JBasham]

The stock gauge is buffered AND set up for a sealed tank radiator system. So far, in my car, the middle position covers everything from "up to operating temp" to boiling over. That happened when I hadn't installed the fan yet, and I was idling the car for a long time checking out other stuff. BTW this has been with the BMW intake temp sensor installed in the Ford lower intake port. I'm going to install an aftermarket temp gauge into the radiator drain port.

[schwerdt1]

Have aftermarket temp gauge running to manifold port. All good so far temp wise with new radiator and fan.

[ponchiz318]

I have the same setup as Jbasham. E36 sensor on intake manifold. There's a purge hole on top of the water outlet pipe which I think I'll use to tap in the aftermarket gauge.

[JBasham]

The stock gauge is buffered AND set up for a sealed tank radiator system. So far, in my car, the middle position covers everything from "up to operating temp" to boiling over. That happened when I hadn't installed the fan yet, and I was idling the car for a long time checking out other stuff. BTW this has been with the BMW intake temp sensor installed in the Ford lower intake port. I'm going to install an aftermarket temp gauge into the radiator drain port.

I replaced that setup with a Bosch sensor and panel gauge. The sensor is still in the intake manifold in the stock Ford 5.0 location. I also got a new radiator cap. I suspect the first one I had, which I got from Jegs the same time as the radiator, had a defect, and that was allowing the boilovers. Anyway, around town running it hard I'm right at 195, which is what it's supposed to do coolant-temp wise. I lent it to Adam and he ran it on the track two days last weekend (Shenandoah Circuit) and it was nice and steady there too. I'm going to Summit Main with it tomorrow and Wednesday to keep working on the suspension balance. I have a box full of springs and sways to try out.