Occurs to me we didn't mention O2 sensors. For sure a bad primary O2 can cause issues like this.
However it would be unusual for left/right bank sensors to fail at exactly the same time and give multiple random / all cylinder misfires.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I'm trying to think of steps that could have been messed up in the trans re-install. Could they have swapped O2 sensor cables (it happens)? Could the crank position sensor not be properly shimmed (assuming a 540 auto needs that)? Are there any manifold related gaskets on the rear of the engine that can be accidentally pinched but hard to check? I too suspect a vacuum leak, perhaps in some spot that's not readily accessible after the trans was reinstalled....
I'd like to see the actual fuel trim numbers, not just someone saying they are perfect......as they usually can vary quite a bit and still not throw codes.
You said the valve timing was adjusted, did they remove the valve covers and upper timing covers when they did this? You should ask them how they did this.
How many miles on the engine?
Have the chain guides ever been replaced?
The tranny shouldn't have anything to do with your problem.
As the others have said a smoke test would be the next thing to do. Someone there must be capable of building a paint can smoke machine.
a little check for you to do on your own
get a spray bottle and put soapy water in it. with the engine running spray the soapy water mixture a small area at a time all over the engine ( vacuum leaks will create bubbles)
if you dont believe that then go with the flammable throttle body or brake cleaner, and a vacuum leak will result in the rpm's rising.
No mechanic charges for that easy check, and you can take it back and make them fix it since they "checked" already.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Thank you all for the suggestions. We've tried most of the things and I even tried to explain the things we haven't tried yet to my mechanic but he's just not able to comprehend any further diagnosing methods you guys are telling me.
Anyway, I give up. Tomorrow I will be taking the car to the BMW dealer. It's not like the dealers in USA, here it's different. It's like the headquarters of BMW in my country, they have all the necessary equipment to solve the problems and are in direct contact with Germany in case they need to ask some technical stuff. Well... I will be robbed for sure, but I have no patience left. I'll report if they can find the issue and fix it.
Last edited by TiesTorN; 07-25-2017 at 05:26 PM.
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
It'll make bubbles on the inside.............. Then you find 'em with your bore scope......
check for clogged catalytic converter...don't ask me how I know. Do they rattle?
Brian
^This is incorrect. A vacuum leak will NOT create bubbles. That test is for inflatables i.e. tires, balloons, etc. because the internal pressure will cause the air to leak OUT, which creates bubbles. A vacuum leak sucks air in, which will NOT create bubbles (at least on the outside)...
The reasoning for spraying a liquid over a vacuum leak is that the liquid will temporarily seal the leak, which is the reason for an increase or stabilizing of the rpm's...anyone wanna back me up on that???
EDIT: Best vacuum leak test uses smoke...
Last edited by ViolinARC; 08-01-2017 at 05:54 AM.
'00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now
lol... they gave up. they are like "we can't find the issue, we need to start trial & error method and swap parts one by one to diagnose, but we don't have the parts in stock and we need to order them so we need to bill you the parts we have ordered.... and so on, and so on..."
well... in short; I said f. off and took my car.
I'll be driving it like this for a while, I'm so tired of this bs, need to take a break.
Not surprised at all. Few dealerships rank up there for master-tech brilliance.
To re-iterate a couple of good suggestions that still stand:
- Use INPA on the car and check/report fuel trims and other sensor readings
- Perhaps obtain a homebrew smoke tester and see if something is revealed
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Your symptoms perfectly describe clogged cats. Are you ABSOLUTELY certain that there is no exhaust OBSTRUCTION?
Was this originally just a transmission REPAIR or transmission SWAP?
Are all PRE and POST cat sensors installed and functioning properly?
These are just random questions that I haven't seen answered, and could quite possibly be a clue to a diagnosis.
well your question is actually answered in the first post. cats are removed. sensors are there and functioning properly.
transmission was repaired with a repair kit.
Well.
We asked repeatedly about trims and sensor readings and all you've said is "the guys who don't have a clue say everything is perfect so it must be".
I think many of us would like that confirmed.
Most dealership techs are utter and complete crap with intelligent use of intelligent diagnostic tools (aka they can't imagine going beyond "derrrrr plug computer in. do what it says") and don't have the experience / brain-cells to do stuff like "oh looking at the raw MAF sensor / O2 / coolant temp / rectal thermometer reading, I know from experience that is NOT a proper reading, even though there's no code at the moment..." The official dealerships don't even use the more 'raw' tools, they just teach the guys to use the "make computer read car and give instructions" software.
INPA + a cable is cheap as dirt on eBay, and is handy and fun to own and have anyway. Get on it.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
the problem was I didn't have access to my car as it was staying in auto service shops. I already have cable and inpa software. now that I have my car, I can check fuel trims
Last edited by TiesTorN; 08-04-2017 at 10:30 AM.
Yes, I read that, that is why I ask if there is a possibility of any other obstruction in the exhaust system, not the cats.
o2 sensors were never mentioned in original post , is why I asked.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
umm.. actually.. about that can you tell me what I need to do exactly? I'm not good at using this inpa software. I mostly use it only for checking codes.
Check out this simple, quick tutorial:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wafhZWD0aDs
If you think the CAT's are the problem you could always unbolt the exhaust pipes from the Pre-CAT on each side. Use something to hold the exhaust pipe up (wire, etc) then take it for a ride and see how it runs above 3500RPM.
It's going to be NASCAR loud but at least you'll know if the CAT's are clogged or not.
Edit...
Didn't know you have removed the CAT's.
Last edited by JimLev; 08-04-2017 at 01:50 PM.
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