$475 is a steal. Would appreciate an image if you get a chance. I've not had much luck with exhaust shops...either costs me more in the end for a poor job or pay top dollar for quality. I need to stop by there next week. Your thread is very helpful...more questions surely will follow as we start to pick up speed on our 97.
Thanks!
Of course I don't get around to taking the picture until it's filthy but here you go.....
Attachment 619005
Sorry for not posting that earlier, I've been all over the place. As for how it sounds, if there's someone in Houston that can help out with making and posting a video, I would appreciate it. Otherwise PM me and I can text you a short one while driving.
I've been daily driving it this whole time with no big issues besides the remaned alternator crapping out on me and the alignment shop stripping one of the rear trailing arm bolts by using an impact gun to tighten. There's still a small drain on the battery. It sat for four days and was a little weak when I tried to start it. My next trip was going to be over a week so I disconnected the battery. I haven't had time to mess with it.
So, I've decided to fix the tapping lifter by swapping in an LS3. One came up on CL for the right price and I couldn't help myself. The plan is to preemptively replace the lifters and swap in a mild Cam Motion cam. I had great luck with Cam Motion in the past and I regret not using one of their cams in the current motor. I have a few items to check off my ****-to-do list but I'm hoping to have the LS3 wired and ready to go in by the end of January.
Good to see everyone's making progress.
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That is a nicely executed system...especially for the price. Why did you chose dual 2.5's? What is the PN on the Borla muffler?
Lifter tick fix > new LS3...the HP increase will be nice. We were tempted on going with the Gen IV motor, but price was a good $1000 higher. It is a better option though.
Geeky question, but how is the mileage on your setup?
Thanks for posting!
I chose 2.5" because it made things easy, I guess. The mid-section is made of 60mm pipe which is slip fit with 2.5" pipe. That way I was able to put two 60mm pipe stubs in the same clamps I was using for the OEM cat-back and build off of that with 2.5" and still have the option of bolting the OEM cat-back back on if I wanted to.
The muffler pn is 400286. The only problem was that the inlets and outlets were a little too far apart, which is why the one tailpipe makes that little kick before passing through the bumper. I'm trying to decide wether to polish the tips or buy tips but kind of leaning towards polishing.
My first impression was that the mileage wasn't great but that was making a 15 minute daily commute and getting on it at every opportunity. It seemed to improve a lot with more time on the highway. This is just eyeballing it though. I haven't calculated.
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60 mm to 2.5 in...gotcha.
Do you think a single 3 inch fit ok?
Appreciate the part number-gives me another data point for muffler sizing.
Can't believe I asked about mileage...the world has changed!
Thanks!
I think single 3" would fit just fine but I think it might be a little restrictive for a 425-ish hp LS, but that's just speculation. I can see it being worth it if you really want to keep it quiet.
I think I'm going to try an exhaust termination box in place of my x-pipe after it's back on the road with the LS3. I'm hoping to take some of the V8-ness out of the sound at low speed/idle and maybe pick up some hp. That's a long ways off though.
Believe me, if I was still making the 1hr commute I used to I would be just as concerned about mileage. I think it also takes some time before you stop hammering on it every chance (maybe?) to get some accurate mileage numbers. I'm sure it will be decent, in the low 20's hwy and high teens cty.
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Here is what my LS1 swap used to do on hwy
Afer I swapped my LS1 to LS2 it went down to about 28-29hwy
At the track I get between 4-7mph
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
How is that system calculating MPG?
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Through OBDII using GM PCM.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Should be pretty damn accurate then as long as distance traveled per VSS pulse is correct.
I know the place that did my start up tune was not given my final drive ratio or tire size so the OBD2 MPG reading would be wrong in my case.
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Whoever was doing my tune asked the final drive and tire size. Also odometer and gas station pump was confitming the readings too. Pretty cool when my cousin in his M3 had worse mpg then me.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Gotta love getting more power and better gas mileage at the same time.
So, I decided to be constructive with my day off and put up some 2x4's in the rafters of my garage to support a pipe which then holds a chain fall. This is to facilitate lifting heavy things like engines while my engine lift is being borrowed/stored by my friend who also helped with putting this all together today. And yes, I'm become the "hangs s$&t everywhere because he ran out of room for all his junk" guy.
The L33 that I bought just in case I want to do a turbo build one day got torn down to the short block. Thankfully the cylinders all look great and only need a quick hone when the time comes to build it.
And up went the LS3 on the stand, ready to be torn down.
Now I just need to get the temporary daily driver UrS4 squared away. Finally got all warning lights off on the dash which if any of you have ever owned a VW/Audi know that's an achievement.
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Got the LS3 torn down to the short block today. Everything looks great. It is spotless under the valve covers.
Now it's time to start buying parts.....
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Modern engines are works of art. Those ports are impressive. Extra engines are always reassuring...:-)
Ordered a camshaft last night. Cam Motion recommend their Stage 1 or 2 LS3 cam based on my needs, which included a smooth idle. They said the idle of the Stage 2 is a little noticeable but still smooth. I chose the Stage 2. Here are the specs:
Duration at .050 - 212/222
Lift with 1.7 - .553/.553
Lobe separation 116
Intake center line 113
I also ordered some GM Performance "Blue" beehive valve springs and all the other odds and ends from Cam Motion too.
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I hit a little roadblock while wiring the LS3. In the GM E38 PCM there is no analog A/C request input. The request comes from the BCM over the CAN bus.
I did a little searching and found a company called RPM Extreme that makes a module that converts an analog signal to an AC request on the CAN data bus. The only problem was that it is triggered by a positive signal and the E36 climate control module request signal is negative.
I know it’s easy enough to wire in a relay to convert the signal but I figured I’d ask if the RPM Extreme module could be configured for a negative input.
I spoke with Jon who said he’d check to see if the module was capable of it and a little while later I got a call back and was told that it is and that there’s an option now on their website to choose a positive or negative control signal.
Another little tidbit I got from Jon was that alternator voltage is regulated by the BCM over the CAN data bus and that his module replicates that function also. If this function isn’t replicated on your swap the PCM defaults to ~13.1V as sort of a limp-home voltage.
Anyway, I just ordered the module and will hopefully have the wiring done in the next week or two. Then I can schedule a weekend to swap motors.
http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/23...st-Module.aspx
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Can you tell me what Corvette FPR/filter you used? Part number would be great, going to start my project soon and assume this is needed?
Here you go:
WIX Filters - 33737 Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9UJUU..._ztyTAb7C1KRW6
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I sought an OEM GM model (19239926) as I came across a that had a few failures upon install. Likely that happens with any of them though.
I just found a thread about that filter causing a problem on ‘99 and earlier ‘vettes.
So far it’s been fine for me. Can’t go wrong with OEM though.
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Coincidental timing for me with regard to your post; I'm using an LS2/E40 PCM which also requires a serial A/C request, normally generated by the PIM/BCM. Thaniel - who many of you know has created all kinds of CAN Bus solutions - offers an Arduino based module to generate this signal, which I will be using.
Just the other day, Thaniel emailed to ask whether the E36 A/C instrument panel switch generates a positive or negative request. Minutes after reading Thaniel's email, I came across your latest post. Thanks for saving me the research
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 03-25-2018 at 11:39 PM.
You know, I should have thought of Thaniel for that too.
Because I'm making the wiring harness myself this time I'm making a "To - From" spreadsheet and having to go through the GM and BMW wiring diagrams to check polarity of relay triggers.
Since we're on the topic, could I ask one of you guys where the BMW A/C compressor clutch connector is on the car side of the harness? Is it part of the chassis harness or engine harness? If it's on the chassis side, would you mind snapping a photo where it comes out of the harness so I can get the general location of it? I can't seem to find it on my car. I think I'm just going to trigger the BMW A/C clutch relay with the GM ECM rather than wiring up a relay in the new engine harness.
Have you test fit for the accessory drives? I planned on an f-body LS1 but upgraded to an LS3 from a '14 Camaro SS. Any issues with clearance of the frame rails or at the radiator/condenser?
I haven’t dropped the LS3 in yet and I had planned on swapping over the LS1 accessory drive to the LS3 when I do.
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