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Thread: 1997 E36 M3 Sedan LS1/T56 Swap

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan
    Quick update: LS1 is out, LS3 is still on s stand.

    Iím keeping the LS1 accessory drive but the LS3 alternator is physically different AND is regulated by PWM. Iíve read of people swapping the PWM regulator over to the LS1 alternator but both of the local alternator shops said it couldnít be done and recommended swapping to a 1-wire regulator, so now Iím waiting on that to be done.

    Next problem is the oil cooler adapter from improved racing. Now matter how I plumb it, the inlet fitting is just too close to the header. Iíve decided to go with a GM oil cooler adapter and lines and I can have AN ends crimped on and drill and tap for the ports I need. Yeah, Iím losing the thermostat but I think it will be fine.

    Last issue is the centering pin for the GUIBO I had made was broken and it appears to have been broken already. Iím going to have to re-check DS alignment and maybe modify the CX trans crossmember.

    Sorry for the lack of photos. I was on a tear and didnít want to stop. Iíll take some when it goes back together. If thereís anything specific you want a shot of, let me know.


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  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    FL Gulf Coast
    Posts
    1,046
    My Cars
    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    ...Last issue is the centering pin for the GUIBO I had made was broken and it appears to have been broken already. Iím going to have to re-check DS alignment and maybe modify the CX trans crossmember....
    Please elaborate on the Guibo centering pin? I'm going to have a one-pice driveshaft made but my GTO T56 came with the GTO slip yoke, which - to the best of my knowledge - uses the same guibo as the stock E36 driveshaft.

    Having never had a car with a Guibo, I assumed it was self centering when it's bolted to the slip yoke. Is there more to it than that?

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan
    If you look at the GTO slip yoke, youíll see a small bushing in the center of it, in the middle of the GUIBO flange. There is a corresponding pin on the driveshaft side, in the center of the GUIBO flange.

    BMW does it the opposite way, with the pin on the transmission yoke side and the bushing on the driveshaft side.

    I wanted to keep the GUIBO and use a two-piece DS so I had a pin machined that threads into the T56 output shaft and cut the bushing out of the center of the GTO slip yoke.

    As you can see from the photos, it didnít hold up too well. Oddly, there was never a bit of vibration. It could be that the transmission is moving around on that POS crossmember.





    Iím going to try to have the new one machined as one piece or weld the nut to the shaft and then have it machined so the pin sits square against the output shaft and also add a relief groove where the threads start.



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  4. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    235
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    My question is why the switch to the LS3 alternator? If using the LS1 FEAD...I'm missing why you don't maintain the LS1 alternator? LS3 with a cam would make ~500 HP? Nice that engine assemblies are nearly interchangeable!

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan
    The LS1 alternator never put out the voltage it should with the field wire connected to the BMW idiot light. I tried adding a resistor but it didnít make a difference. This happened with more than one alternator. Thereís a field control output from the LS1 PCM that wasnít used and I never tried hooking it up. Because of all that I wanted to keep PCM control of the alternator field when I wire up the LS3 but instead of a variable voltage output like from the LS1 PCM, the LS3 PCM uses pulse width modulation and the alternator has a specific regulator that varies field voltage based on that PWM signal.

    In the end, Iím keeping the LS1 alternator but making it self regulating. If that doesnít work, Iíll look harder for someplace that can build an LS1 alternator with PWM regulation.

    The cam is really tame so it might be a little short of 500hp but pretty torquey.

    The GM interchangeability is incredible. I had a crisis moment once the LS1 was out about stopping the LS3 swap and putting in the L33 and starting a single turbo build. I had a 383 with a GT42 on it a while back and I miss having that abundance of power. Iím looking forward to getting this project wrapped up and just driving it. I think thatís what stopped me from changing directions.



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  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    FL Gulf Coast
    Posts
    1,046
    My Cars
    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by BigL350 View Post
    If you look at the GTO slip yoke, youíll see a small bushing in the center of it, in the middle of the GUIBO flange. There is a corresponding pin on the driveshaft side, in the center of the GUIBO flange.

    BMW does it the opposite way, with the pin on the transmission yoke side and the bushing on the driveshaft side.

    I wanted to keep the GUIBO and use a two-piece DS so I had a pin machined that threads into the T56 output shaft and cut the bushing out of the center of the GTO slip yoke.

    As you can see from the photos, it didnít hold up too well. Oddly, there was never a bit of vibration. It could be that the transmission is moving around on that POS crossmember.

    Iím going to try to have the new one machined as one piece or weld the nut to the shaft and then have it machined so the pin sits square against the output shaft and also add a relief groove where the threads start.
    Thanks for the info. I'll pull the yoke from the trans next time I'm home and have a closer look.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    235
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    LS1 ALternator: I'm doing something a bit different - running an aftermarket EFI system stand alone. The alternator/starter/battery will be separate. Can I not run the alternator as it sits - I assumed it would be internally regulated...likely I should not assume.

    Thanks.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    104
    My Cars
    1997 M3 Sedan
    Front control arms and lollipops are done. Heat shielding is in place. Now thereís nothing on the car side that is stopping the engine from going in.

    In the engine side, the LS1 alternator with one-wire regulation is in. So are the OEM oil cooler lines. They required some tweaking to clear the knock sensor so some heating with MAPP gas and some creative bending was done. Next is to have AN fittings crimped on and to drill and tap oil pressure ports for the BMW OP switch and VDO sending unit. I canít think of any reason to keep the GM oil pressure sensor and it would save me from having to drill and tap one hole if I can delete it. Any thoughts?

    Here are some photos:

    The inlet fitting of the Improved Racing oil cooler adapter points right at the header. I really would have liked to use this but I wasnít happy with how close any fitting I could use would be to the header. The GM adapter points the lines upward.


    Like so.....


    A little clearance for the knock sensor


    Some insulation in the transmission tunnel


    For got to mention this. So, I bought this upper radiator hose adapter from JTR and thought I lost it but it turned up when I dug out my headers to send them for coating. At the same time I realized that the hole I tapped in the LS1 water pump to mount the BMW temp sensor now interferes with the DBW throttle body and has to be plugged. After 10 minutes on the phone with Grainger for them to figure out who I was and then have no idea what I was talking about when I asked for an M12x1.5 plug, I realized I already had one that was in the unused port on every LS engine I have and hung up. So, I drilled, squared, and tapped a hole in the bottom of the JTR adapter to mount the BMW sensor. Now I have a nifty sight glass too.



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