Ok so Im up here is blazing hot Idaho summers I know not as bad as you guys in Arizona or las vegas but I'm a wimp from California. I am wondering how hard it would be to some how get AC on my e21 what would I need and is there alternatives like window tint that are going to actually cool my car in 90+ plus degrees.
Right now if I drive for more then 5 mins my shirt will be soaked in sweat so I'm getting pretty desprate.
M20 swapped E21 FTW!!
Here's an idea:
On a serious note, assuming it's a factory non- a/c car, I think it would be difficult to add air conditioning without a complete overhaul.
I would recommend a rotary style compressor and m10 bracket off of an '84 318 (e30), but almost everything else would need to be custom.
When I did the compressor retrofit, I converted the system to R-134 (freeze 12 isn't available where I live due to the EPA hippies) but the stock condenser was not designed to perform with R-134; therefore making performance extremely below par. My honest opinion is that it is not worth the amount of time and resources you will have put into your car. With much regret, I have spent roughly $1600 to get it to where it is now and I still ride with windows down and use the breeze to cool off rather than turning on my air conditioning... My last hope will be that a parallel flow condenser will be the final step to make it work well, but I have not looked into where it will fit without cutting into the car.
On a side note, I managed to talk to a guy who builds hydraulic hoses for larger Caterpillar type bulldozers and he was able to custom fabricate my a/c lines for much less than any mechanic would be able to offer.
I bet by now, you're starting to consider that window a/c unit... haha
In the 'mean' time, you can use a cooler full of frozen water bottles. Put a bottle between your legs. When the ice between your legs has fully melted, drink that water and then put another frozen water bottle between your legs. Repeat as necessary.
* pro tip: don't drink from the bottle between your legs until it's fully melted.
Tbd
Here is an estimate I received for converting my entire system to r134. I have since started the process...I am trying to install the condenser at moment, because it is not the same size of the unit removed, I need to do some OKIErigging. After the shock and realization that this needs to be done, I started to purchase the parts and build it myself...:
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The old vs the new condenser...
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The old condenser unit with fan...
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The new condenser unit with fan...
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Trying to fit the condenser...
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Last edited by SilverPuddle; 07-15-2017 at 09:19 AM.
I just found r-12 12 oz cans- $25 a can seems to be plenty of it out there. Did a quick check of the system installed a can in May and the AC works good the pressure numbers look good. On high fan it's Ok. As noted by others the system is not stock it's a dealer add on and is limited. Good luck on the retrofit.
I mixed on doing the transfer, I have kept all my old parts. It all started because my compressor went out.
If I do not like the retro-fix, I will stay with the stock items...I found a compressor that will work with r12.
The AC Parts shop that I am working with will take the new parts back if I want to return them.
I am mounting the compressor today.
I like the stock fit and wish the aftermarket fit as well...anyway, thanks for letting me know of the r12 availability.
What size condenser and what brand is that? I've been hung up on how large I can go, that thing looks huge!
-John
It is a 14"x18" with an overall fitting width of 20". My problem is the existing opening width is 18.5" and I wanted to go back into this opening. I am looking at returning it for a 14"x16" with an overall fitting width of 18".
The brand is "UAC" (Universal Air Condition)...https://uacparts.com/
If I installit, one part, almost 2" will have a wall (body work) behind it and redusce air flow through it. I am not sure if that will matter much in the scheme of things.
Right now, I am trying to see what fits and how to fit it or use my condensor...therefore, maintain the r12 system for now.
A question here: If my car was converted to r134 back in 2000 (so it says on a sticker AND the fittings are definitely consistent with that; also I put some in), should they have changed the condenser? I don't think they did, but the fittings aren't just those adapters you buy to just put over the Schrader valves, so I'm assuming it was done "professionally". I'll have to take a closer look. It is leaking somewhere and maybe the condenser was what screwed things up???
You do not have to change the condenser to run R-134 in your system.
However, R-134 is slightly less efficient and the condenser will usually have to be upgraded to match the cooling performance of a R12 system.
Last edited by SilverPuddle; 07-15-2017 at 11:09 PM.
okey-doke, I get it. The condenser change is for efficiency: to make it work better.
I did a trial fitting of the new compressor and it fits and has a lot of extra room for connecting the hoses.
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Isn't it great how much better the Sanden mocks up?
-John
There is a shop in Tulsa OK, called Bryant Automotive Air Compressor Parts...they will build it for you or help you with your DIY project. Very knowledgeable guys there...and they have a great sense of humor!
Once I finish with this project, I am now thinking of adding AC to my old 2002...it just waiting for the love.
- - - Updated - - -
It was weird placing the Saden in place...there was so much room. I had no clue how much room the brick took up.
The part actually depends on if you want to use r-134a or r-12
-John
Wowza, did not know that. In that case yeah, you would just have to change the oil out if you did a different refridgerant than r134a. My model is a sanden 508. A 709 would also work, they all have the same mounting ear dimensions. 709 would be slightly higher capacity.
-John
You are correct about the oil...the compressor is a Sanden clone (CP508). It has two sets of ports with one for r12 and the other for r134.
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