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Thread: Rod Bearing Failure M62B44

  1. #26
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    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    That looks good. The mystery continues...

    Pressure relief valve maybe?
    98 540i 6, VF S/C Customized to 16 psi, Intercooled, Water/Meth, ?? RWHP, Supersprint, HJS, 3" Ex, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, 65's w/275's, M5 Box, Eibach, M3 Shifter, Evans, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  2. #27
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    No,that pump had been pumping debris. Sides of driven vane are scored, and pits on drive side of rotor.
    But the bearings probably failed first.

  3. #28
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    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    Some scores yeah, but enough to kill pressure?
    98 540i 6, VF S/C Customized to 16 psi, Intercooled, Water/Meth, ?? RWHP, Supersprint, HJS, 3" Ex, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, 65's w/275's, M5 Box, Eibach, M3 Shifter, Evans, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  4. #29
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    With the crap that was in the oil pan, some damage from pumped debris is expected. What I'm trying to identify at this point is the root cause of the bearing failure, not so much to see what parts may be good enough to reuse.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by qcdstick View Post
    With the crap that was in the oil pan, some damage from pumped debris is expected. What I'm trying to identify at this point is the root cause of the bearing failure, not so much to see what parts may be good enough to reuse.
    Noted, and like i said, bearings probably failed first.
    The high miles engines (180-200k) that i have taken apart have all had rod bearings worn down to copper/ brass colored backings.
    I dont think that rod bearing failure is just an S62 thing.

  6. #31
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    I'd look at the condition of the wear plates that sammich the pump gears. If there is wear there, there's an easy place for pressure to escape.

    (Where wolf? There wolf)

  7. #32
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    I haven't read all of this post (at airport on my phone), you replaced the chain guides, right?
    Did you forget to put in the small oriface behind the fat green o-ring that feed oil to the tensioner, or is it the U guide. That would result in low oil pressure. The light only comes on below 7 PSI.
    Last edited by JimLev; 07-22-2017 at 04:28 PM.

  8. #33
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    Are you talking about the swivel arm thing at the bottom bolt of the tensioner guide that presses into the block above the crank sort of behind the u guide? I had the guides on and off a few times figuring everything out, but I'm 99.9% sure I did.

  9. #34
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    Only semi-relevant to the topic at hand. Got my potential donor car home. 1997 540i 6 speed with 157,000 miles for $1,000. Only now I'm not quite sure I want to part it.


    The Bad:
    - It hasn't been driven other than re-parked around the PO's yard/driveway in over a year due to severe driveshaft shake and thumping over ~20mph or so. Got worse over time until he just stopped driving it, he thinks it's the guibo and I tend to agree.
    - Engine has a tick in the top end that the PO (who I've known a while so i trust) didn't recall from before. Most likely a collapsed lifter? I'm hoping it's just due to how long the car sat and some driving and fresh oil will fix it.
    - Mismatched hood, original one flipped up at 50mph destroying the hood
    - Cracked windshield from the aforementioned hood incident.
    - Front bumper is torn up pretty badly from getting hooked over a parking stop.
    - Interior is filthy up front with grease/dirt? not sure if it would clean up or not.
    - Car doesn't show it at a glance, but the rust monster is coming in a big way. Visible at the bottom edge of several panels, and the underside looks like one would expect for a car that lived in NY and the Midwest driven in the salt (ie, BAD).
    - Hood latch mechanism is still jacked up, currently I can't get it open although it was open when I looked at the car. Cable seems fine at least.

    2017-07-31 21.11.44.jpg

    2017-07-31 21.12.06.jpg

    The Good:
    - Body panels look pretty decent from a distance, some small dents and scratches.
    - Engine seems to run fine, aside from the tick in the one bank and a vacuum leak hiss when revving it.
    - It has the full Zionsville radiator, shroud, and Spahl 2 speed fan kit.
    - Headlights and taillights are upgraded with what appears to be OEM facelift units, or at the very least they are Hella brand.
    - Runs and drives, drove under its own power onto my trailer and then into my garage once home.
    - Has a trunk full of spare parts. Air filters, Oil Filters, valve cover gasket nut seals, window regulator, valve cover gasket, water pump o-rings, some misc gaskets related to the intake runner, those white door clips for the door panel that always break etc. based just off what I could recognize from the pile.

    2017-07-30 20.22.01.jpg

    2017-07-31 21.11.20.jpg

    I figure worst case, the engine is junk upon detailed inspection (unlikely) and I get a spare 6speed trans, spare zionsville setup, and facelift my headlights and tailights for my $1k investment I can't lose too badly. Could cannibalize the rest of the car for spares / part out as well before scrapping the rest.

    Not at all looking forward to tearing down the exhaust to get at the guibo after how much of a PITA my much less rusty car was to get free... But frankly, assuming the guibo repair is as expected, I'm considering just fixing it and leaving it as is because it will be a complete running car. I could use it as a winter beater for a few years, I already have wheels and snow tires or sell it for a profit. Of course, at that point I still need to track down a good engine for my car which puts me back at square 1 looking for a solid engine, or good candidate for a refresh (timing / rod bearings). Anyone know of any? I want to get MY beast back on the road too.

    540i at sebring square.jpg

  10. #35
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    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    Run it some more with fresh oil and see if lifter tap clears. If so, just use this motor for your car along with the other items. Part and dump the rest. Car looks like it's beat.
    98 540i 6, VF S/C Customized to 16 psi, Intercooled, Water/Meth, ?? RWHP, Supersprint, HJS, 3" Ex, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, 65's w/275's, M5 Box, Eibach, M3 Shifter, Evans, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I haven't read all of this post (at airport on my phone), you replaced the chain guides, right?
    Did you forget to put in the small oriface behind the fat green o-ring that feed oil to the tensioner, or is it the U guide. That would result in low oil pressure. The light only comes on below 7 PSI.
    Is this the orifice you are talking about? (dead center of picture, black part going between tensioner guide and U guide)

    2017-08-02 20.34.24.jpg

    If so, the good news is I didn't forget it. The bad news is, no closer to knowing what went wrong, if it was even something I did at all.


    On a related note. Dis-assembling the engine from the bottom up just feels wrong...

    2017-08-02 20.34.09.jpg

    Amazing how fast it goes though when A: You've just done all this crap recently, and more to the point B: It's out of the car and you can go to town popping bolts off with the impact.

    When I get my new engine, will be so nice to be able to prep everything accessible like this vs fighting the cramped engine bay! If I ever have to do a timing job in the car again, I'm taking the front clip off for sure. After seeing how easy it was, and how accessible it made everything, I feel like an idiot for not doing it the first time around.

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