Buying a used M3 with 100K+ miles on it.....what am I in for?

[IQRaceworks]

I've decided to get rid of my 03' JCW Mini Cooper S and step up to something that is still a blast to drive, still handles awesome...but has more power. I've got a buddy with an E46 M3, and after taking it for a spin I'm hooked

Over the last month I've been trying to learn all I can about them...the good, the bad, and everything in between. Overall they sound like amazing cars......but there are a few things that scare me about buying a used one with 100K or more miles on them, and an unknown maintenance history (most I've seem have 100K miles on them, and most of the owners are #3 or #4, and have no idea about the cars past history).

I love wrenching on cars, I have the tools and knowledge to do just about anything from transmission rebuilding, to suspension work, to paint and body work.

That being said.....assuming a PPI inspection comes back clean on a car with 100,000 miles on it (is that even possible)....what am I in for? From what I've read, the most common issues are with the Vanos, subframe cracking, and SMG transmission pumps (if you have an SMG)......once those issues have been addressed, are teh e46 M3's reliable enough to be a daily driver?

Also, on a side note....if I find an M with an SMG, should I run.....or think about it? It seems like the majority I've seen for sale are SMG's......and with over 100K on them, I'm assuming that they have new pumps?

Any info, tips, advice would be great....thanks!

[dworthy]

Welcome to the Forum!

Well like any BMW, it is just more expensive to take care of a "M" car is all. Now some folks will tell you that the "M" stands for Money, but I always like the saying: "If you want to play, you have to pay."

So you have hit most of the problems with these cars, and I will tell you that I have done the VANOS this past year in mine, it was at 94k miles. The sub frame cracking happened mostly in the early cars, I would try to steer away from being a 5th owner. Being a 3rd isn't too bad if the previous 2 keep up with the maintenance of the vehicle.

Yes a PPI is your best friend when it comes to a make or break deal in my eyes, if you want a car in that shape to fix or bring the price down more. An enthusiast will not sell their 6-speed, and I am betting that is why you are seeing mostly SMG equipped cars.

[IQRaceworks]

Since it kind of a roll of the dice anyways....and I know that I'll probably end up servicing/repairing the vanos, putting rod bearings in it, and welding up the subframe.....should I just be on the lookout for the cheapest one I can find? I can't see spending $20,000 on a "nice" one with 100,000 miles on it vs. $8,000 for a "decent" one with 100,000 miles on it.....both with unknown service history's.

[dworthy]

True, as you really don't know what you are getting into and these cars can get a tad expensive to fix if you don't have the tools/knowledge. Normally a PPI will help with finding most of the big issues, so it's worth the 120 bucks.

[lmtfi]

Since it kind of a roll of the dice anyways....and I know that I'll probably end up servicing/repairing the vanos, putting rod bearings in it, and welding up the subframe.....should I just be on the lookout for the cheapest one I can find? I can't see spending $20,000 on a "nice" one with 100,000 miles on it vs. $8,000 for a "decent" one with 100,000 miles on it.....both with unknown service history's.

1. Its not a "roll of the dice". Get a PPI, oil test and compression test by a shop that know the E46 M3.

2. Its widely believed that $20K is the sweet spot - whether you buy a well-maintained car - or put the difference into it to bring it up to condition.

[parallax]

I just picked up a 2006 ZCP with 98k and spent 19.5k which is more than I wanted to spend. This was due to having all maint records/parts and the place I had perform the PPI ($150) said this was the cleanest E46 M3 they've ever inspected for a PPI. Nice cars sell really fast in my area so I jumped on it, he was asking 22k.

Also decided to jump because it's a ZCP and those were always my favorite factory wheels (don't need to buy wheels now), KW coilovers, Milltek section 2 & 3 with all new Turner hardware and a clean/small system (ICE) set up with sub + component speakers + headunit + amps. It basically had everything I wanted already done so I upped my price for that.

Plus its hard to find one with records and low mileage that isn't $30k in California.

I am still pissed that I need to take a (new to me) car with a clean bill of health and immediately drop thousands into subframe/vanos/rod bearings. I'm going to do it for peace of mind but it still sucks.

**I would like to add that I passed on lower/higher mileage cars for less money that didn't have receipts/records. I came to the realization that if you want a REALLY nice example with low mileage, you are looking at 25-30k easy and I didn't want to spend that on a weekend car, 'house-broke homeowner' as it is. Glad I didn't spend that extra $$$ cause I'd still likely have to do subframe/vanos/rod bearings.

[SPhilly28]

Its been a long time since I've seen an E46 M3 that has not had rear floor issues. I've done two repairs this past week and have two more lined up in the next month. It's crazy really. The Vanos stuff, and rod bearings I can almost call acceptable wear and tear but the floor issues are beyond that. Horrible build quality from what is a very good car otherwise. And these are not rusty cars, these are cream puff summer only rides

[parallax]

Its been a long time since I've seen an E46 M3 that has not had rear floor issues. I've done two repairs this past week and have two more lined up in the next month. It's crazy really. The Vanos stuff, and rod bearings I can almost call acceptable wear and tear but the floor issues are beyond that. Horrible build quality from what is a very good car otherwise. And these are not rusty cars, these are cream puff summer only rides

​What was involved with the repairs? New RACP, plates, Vincebar?

[SPhilly28]

I've been doing the Redish Motorsports kits. If the floor is torn or the cracks are out beyond what the reinforcement plates cover, I would decline the repair. Full panel replacement is beyond the scope of what I could do in my shop, I'd want it at a body shop with a table to put it together. The VinceBar is a massive job too, I don't think the customers in my area would pay the bill on that. I could see that easily being 3-4 times the amount of work that a basic Redish kit would entail.

[Eaglesail]

Got my 3 a few moths ago...I recommend changing all fluids. I just posted for a response about atf fluid change here. Changing atf can be catastrophic...killing your transmission..but varies greatly. To do, or not to do!

[dworthy]

Umm what M-3 are you putting ATF in friend?

All E-46 M-3 use MTL, for both the 6-speed and SMG.

[blaam3]

Mileage is not always the determining factor for what to expect. There are rough cars with 20k miles, and gems with 100k. Get a PPI and once acquired just be sure to address the common failure points in a somewhat timely manner. Then you'll be in for a good time.

[Cobra1956]

Get a leak down test if you can. Tells you much more than a compression test. If you are handy you can save tons. I start with replacing all of the fluids, it's a used car and you have no real proof of anything unless you saw it done.
Belts, you can do. Pulleys too if they spin freely, you can repack two of the three if they are not bad.
Valve shims, time consuming but easy to do.
Conditioning the leather interior.
Ticking time bomb is your cats. No big worry unless you have state inspections.
Vanos filter easy do
You really need to be honest in what you are buying and why. There is no cheap way to do cheap! The s54 is a bad ass engine and that comes at a price. I just did a complete paint job and replaced everything that was worn. My thinking was that I got my car a few years back for what i thought was a good price and there was a reason for that. I plan to hang onto it until someone hits it and totals it out. Not to mention what a new one costs @$60k.
Good hunting