Ok, without further adieu, here is the car.
Exterior:
IMG_20170716_194013 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_194147 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_193954 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_193945 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_193933 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_193823 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_193835 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_193848 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_194058 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_194130 by cgeromi
IMG_20170716_194110 by cgeromi
And One Interior - Didn't get to Detail Yet - Will Have More Once Inside is Detailed:
IMG_20170716_193906 by cgeromi
Beautiful car, exterior very clean. Interior good from the one pic.
Thanks! Only problem with interior is sagging a pillars and rear view mirror is busted and stuck on night mode.
Anyone have one for sale??
Man, that car is in good shape. I don't know that it was worth $5k, but assuming everything is reasonably right under the skin, I really don't think you got ripped off.
So I just spent the last hour researching BMW alignments and I'm torn between the shop using weights vs not.
What is everyone's thoughts on this? Where do you guys get your car aligned and do they use weights?
Ok, OCD much? LOL.
Before you do that, did you confirm front control arm bushings, all joints?
Wait, are you saying that you pulled to the left before you did the rotation or are you saying that the pulling to the right occurred immediately after rotating the tires. You sure it isn't a brake sticking?
Immediately after rotating pulled to right. Prior to that it was OK.
Possibility that they are a staggered set.
Check wheel & tire specs.
Tires are Continental's and are all the same size. I went through the owners manual and couldn't find anything about tire rotation. Tire pressure was all good in all 4 tires as well. My only theory is the rear tires wore slightly differently than the front from not being rotated previously and are causing the pull to the right when I moved those to the front. Everything checks out now and it drives in a straight line.
I am considering purchasing the Firestone lifetime warranty as I did with my VW, but I'm sure Firestone doesn't use weights as suggested by BMW.
Doesn't hurt to ask if you can sit in the drivers seat during alignment,
you can't get more accurate than that!
Interesting...I too bought recently my first BMW, an 03..325XI wagon...for the exact $..4995...in Waltham Massachusetts in Mid March 2017.
I did not put this car on the road until a week and a half ago, still I have to visit the DMV for perm plates...tomorrow!
Things I learned before purchase....garage kept: true...serviced by BMW: not....
116.3 K miles...two original Michelins still on car..no rust, no ultraviolet damage...yes.
Original brake fluid, transmission fluid, power steering fluid....probably...change anyway!
Also, the valve cover gasket shows a cheap silicone repair. I pulled the two pans again off to inspect a 500 mile drive. I have a minimum of oil leakage and with no sign of 90 weight or ATF appearant...
This car looks, drives, sounds, as a new car...but it will now after 14 years still require all fluid changes....and hopefully the transmission was not abused and can except a full fluid change without future problems as a result of this fluid change.....Always a gamble buying used...
Congrats on the purchase!!! I must say, from the carfax, the car I bought was BMW dealer maintained. All fluids (coolant, atf, brake) look to be quite fresh. Under the motor to the trans she's bone dry. Have had the car since Saturday morning and put about 400 miles on her. I check the oil daily and shes thus far dead on the full mark. Interior has also been spared from UV damage EXCEPT the rear view mirror is all mucked up from the internal liquid breaking. Hoping to find one at my local u-pull it yard this week. Other than that, 2 new a-pillars and she's perfect.
Next week I plan on flushing the power steering fluid and dumping the gear oil for some Redline MTL and putting some Amsoil 75 90 in the rear diff. I am curious to see the quality of those fluids once drained. If they are like the rest of the car, I believe they will be somewhat fresh. As far as brake fluid, I plan on doing pads and rotors in about 3-4K miles. The current rotors are not shot but definitely worn as well as the pads. They have some life left but I am picky about brakes. The current brakes on it now are semi-metallic and squeak at low speeds. ANNOYING! I plan on going Bosch Blue ceramic pads, all the way around. Great quiet braking and significantly less brake dust on the rims.
The one pressing thing I need to do is adjust the e-brake. She doesn't hold the car even pulled all the way up.
Question for someone. Is the rubber sleeve that sits on over the fuel filter, reusable?
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