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Thread: Need Thoughts/Feedback on Buying This Car...

  1. #26
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    '04 Rav4, '84 300SD
    What am I looking at for prices of water pump and tstat housing? Also, is it crucial to use genuine BMW parts? My VW only played well with genuine parts but other cars I've had play OK with aftermarket parts.

  2. #27
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    Hi Craig, you can call me Miky,
    It helps to differentiate me from others named Mike in the forums.
    Hoping my insight helps in your decision making process, as I know it can be tough.

  3. #28
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    On electronics, like sensors-Only BMW genuine OE or OEM replacement parts,
    Also the same on critical fit mechanical parts. Most of the aftermarket replacements-
    are found in upgrades, such as suspension parts. There are several good suppliers:

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/
    https://www.getbmwparts.com/
    Or shop rapidly here:http://www.furiousmethod.com/
    Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 07-13-2017 at 05:08 AM.

  4. #29
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    '04 Rav4, '84 300SD
    Thanks Miky. And nice to meet you also. Fcpeuro is definitely a great site. Have ordered from them many times for VW parts.

  5. #30
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    Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 07-13-2017 at 05:22 AM.

  6. #31
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    Yes, one is available aftermarket,
    but from the reports in this forum-bad fit causing leaks.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Yes, one is available aftermarket,
    but from the reports in this forum-bad fit causing leaks.
    I had the same issue with my VW. Spent $200 on an aluminum housing only for it to leak when it got cold and stayed cold.

  8. #33
    Join Date
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    2001 325i; 2006 325i
    That guy carangel is a moron and his video is misleading. DO NOT base your decision on that video. The only value his information has to me is that a potential seller might see it and decide that the car they are selling isn't worth as much as they hoped. Even still, everything he points out is a no big deal issue. I would have bought the car he was knocking at a reasonable price. The E46 is really easy to work on and parts are reasonably priced. The only thing I'm really concerned about is the body. I can't do body work and having it done is expensive.

    MIKYZ, what you are talking about is exactly why I haven't taken it to the shop yet. From the research I've done, all that is required for a re-application of clear coat is a wet sand and removal of all of the loose clear coat. No polishing necessary. If I can get my older son to get his desoto out of my garage so I can get the E46 into it, I'll let you know how it goes. I'm planning to use 2 part clear coat in rattle cans.

  9. #34
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    Tony,

    After much thought, and research I think this guy is jaded for sure. I am going look at and drive the car again this afternoon and then make my final decision. I'll take lots of pics and show everyone when I get home this evening.

  10. #35
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    Are these cars prone to rot? If so, body, frame, both? I babied my '98 GTI Vr6 like no other. Washed it weekly. Waxed it. Cleaned every nook and cranny, and she still rotted in the rockers and the rear wheel well where the gas neck sat.

  11. #36
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    Yea Tony,
    I'm no body or paint man, but from the little research I've done, I'm thinking it's possible.
    I'll be on the lookout for your updates on how it turns out, thanks.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeastonMW View Post
    Are these cars prone to rot? If so, body, frame, both? I babied my '98 GTI Vr6 like no other. Washed it weekly. Waxed it. Cleaned every nook and cranny, and she still rotted in the rockers and the rear wheel well where the gas neck sat.
    Not really. The wheels tend to corrode if a lot of salt or exposed to liquid de-icer (CaCl or MgCl), but a bit of care with car washes seems to be enough. The last BMWs to rust a lot were E30s, although I've seen E36s to rust also.

    On the A/C, if it's one side not working, it could be a (hard-to-get-to) evaporator, but more likely the A/C control unit. Leaks do happen, but my '01 330xi still had the original charge after 145K/8 years.

    It's a nice looking car. Just remember it's a 13 year old car (but you're used to driving older vehicles - nothing wrong with that.)

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by floydr View Post
    Not really. The wheels tend to corrode if a lot of salt or exposed to liquid de-icer (CaCl or MgCl), but a bit of care with car washes seems to be enough. The last BMWs to rust a lot were E30s, although I've seen E36s to rust also.

    On the A/C, if it's one side not working, it could be a (hard-to-get-to) evaporator, but more likely the A/C control unit. Leaks do happen, but my '01 330xi still had the original charge after 145K/8 years.

    It's a nice looking car. Just remember it's a 13 year old car (but you're used to driving older vehicles - nothing wrong with that.)
    Absolutely am no stranger to driving older cars. I prefer them actually I currently own an '03 Rav4 and an '84 Mercedes 300SD (absolute tank!). The dealer said he had his mechanic look for a leak and did not find any. The freon level was a tad under the normal range. The system was evacuated and freon added to normal level. Now all vents supposedly blow cold air. I am going down in an hour to check out the car again.

  14. #39
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    My '01 325i has lived it's life in south Louisiana and not a spec of rust on it.

    Beaston, just so you know, I am an anal/ocd nit picker when it comes to buying stuff, most of the time; although I do try to temper it with reason and common sense. I got bitten by the BMW bug back in February. I've shopped a lot of BMWs. E36s, E46s, E90s. To me, for looks and performance vs cost of ownership the E46 is hard to beat. Since my son started driving the E46, I continue to be amazed by it. MANY reports of the engine going well over 200k miles with proper oil changes. The only glaring problems I've seen repeatedly are neglect of the cooling system (which is why I don't even look at E46s "only needing a head gasket") and the fact that everyone thinks that the auto transmission fluid doesn't need to be changed, so they don't do it. Other than those two, oil leaks around the oil filter housing are pretty common but easily fixed.

    Bottomline is that although I've never personally owned an E36, I can't speak highly enough of the E46s. Of course, buying any used car is a gamble to some degree; however, it does look like you found one that has gotten at least a reasonable amount of care. Honestly, my only regret is that I got an auto. I went and test drove a manual '02 not too long ago and for being a supposedly underpowered car, it was a blast. With 200k on the clock I was going to buy it, but the guy was a car flipper inexperienced in BMW and actually paid someone to go through the car and fix what needed to be fixed so what he had to get out of it was way more than I was willing to pay. Yeah, he wanted like $3800 for an '02 with 200k on the clock.

    Man, the clutch feels good. The tranny shifted smoothly. Very good throttle response. Very nimble. Rock solid on the highway. Heck, I feel downright good about my son driving it because he's less likely to get into trouble due to losing control.

  15. #40
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    '73 E9, '94 E34, '02 E46
    so you're looking at $5k for a 2004 model which you think is in good shape. And you can't/haven't found another that's close after looking for some time.

    I think if you rattle around long enough on this list the market will sort this out for you - when someone else buys the car.

    The car needs to be scanned as noted above, using a BMW-compatible scanner. Only then will you have the "inside story".

    Beyond that, you're okay with spending another grand on repairs - that should provide near-term happiness. Hope you can do yourself the work the car will need within that time.
    Charlie

    Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.

  16. #41
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    Well everyone, I bought the car!!!! I pick it up Saturday morning. Got guy down $100. Total cost is $4895. I'm satisfied. I took the car out for a long drive and went through the gears. Car was rock solid!! AC blew so damn cold I only had it on one fan click and it was freezing. I took a flashlight and looked at every nook and cranny in the engine and didn't see the valve cover leaking or any other oil or coolant leaks.

    So my next question is what kind of engine oil, gear oil, and differential oil should I throw in?

  17. #42
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    DUDE!!! Congrats!! Ok, it's solid, but don't lull yourself into a false sense of security. If the cooling system hasn't been replaced in the last few years. not only do you have to worry about parts failure but the plastic just plain gets brittle; and these engines REALLY don't like to be over heated. The cooling system is, I believe, the most important part. Oh, that includes pulleys and hoses and belt. Just for a quick, for the time being, once over, at least make sure that the belt is riding in the center of the pulleys and not side saddle. Also, check the oil every day for like a week, just to make sure. My 325 hasn't lost a drop since I changed the oil when we first got it. Pfft, by E90 eats about a litre every 5k miles, but I change at 5k so no big deal.

    If I recall, I went with Mobil One synthetic in the proper weights all the way around on my kid's 325. Don't remember the weights right now, but you can google an owner's manual. By the way, since you're doing fluids, don't neglect the brake and power steering fluids. Power steering takes tranny fluid. Look at the cap for specs.

    Man, you are gonna love that car.

  18. #43
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    Good decision

    When you know it's the right car, you just know!
    Congratulations on picking up a sweet ride!

  19. #44
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    Now I just need to find an owner's manual. Regular or synthetic atf for power steering?

  20. #45
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    Any idea why the shifter knob won't go on? I looked up inside it today at the dealer and I can see the metal where it sits in on the shafts groove but no matter how hard I push it won't slide into place.

  21. #46
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    The power steering will either take ATF or CHF11S. ATF is red, CHF is green. It will say on the cap.

    And if its ATF, yes you can use regular or synthetic.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhurley34 View Post
    The power steering will either take ATF or CHF11S. ATF is red, CHF is green. It will say on the cap.

    And if its ATF, yes you can use regular or synthetic.
    I hope it's not chf11s. My VW took that and that stuff is EXPENSIVE per liter. So, everyone please don't hate me but I have 1001 questions right now.

    One of my biggest concerns is the car only comes with one key. What are my options for getting a 2nd key? Can I just get a generic key that will start the car/open the doors OR does the key have a chip in it that starts the car.

  23. #48
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    So I picked the car up yesterday and WOW. This car was treated like a baby!! I removed the under belly engine cover and she's bone dry!! Suspension parts all looked incredible. I feel like a very lucky man! And let me say, this is my first BMW and the way it handles is unbelievable!!! She is so tight!!!! I'm just so damn elated about this car!!! Today she is getting a wax and interior shine. I'll follow up with pics later.

    Thanks everyone for the feedback and talking me into getting this gem!!

  24. #49
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    Glad to hear it....and, yes....pics.

  25. #50
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    SEE PAGE 3.

    Photobucket is now worthless and I swtiched to Flickr. Check out page 3 to see all the pics of the '04 325CI I purchased on Saturday.
    Last edited by BeastonMW; 07-17-2017 at 01:03 PM.

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