Just came across this on eBay. Seems like an alternative of $500 strong strut bar though not sure how the quality is. Any idea?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E31-V8-V1-...31.m4335.l8656
Forget about any hinged bar. All they do is keep the distance between the towers the same, but still allows for parallellogramming. More 'eyecandy' (most don't look nice anyway) than function.
Unless you're not looking for more rigidity.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
I would skip on any e31 parts that have "m3 drifting" as tags in the title XD
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Thanks guys!! Guess it's a pass then and indeed the "Drift King" just sounds funny after all LOL!
It's not carbon fibre.
Not interested.
Also look how the mounting point are just flat pieces of steel. How is that ever going to sit right.
A properly designed one has cutouts to go over the humps on top of the tower.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Complete waste of time. The chassis is very stiff on the front of the E31 with the only functional stiffening addition being the undercar cross brace fitted to later cars. To make the advertised strut brace of any use at all, it would need to be installed, and them the pivot points welded to prevent movement, removal and then refitting.
However, if its only for eye candy, then its fine as it is.
As for a rear brace........the chassis thickness is so thin back there, that a reinforcing plate is needed anyway on a stock car, the last thing you need is more stress on those top mounts. Here, a solid bar would need to be welded between the main inner arches after welding-in, reinforcing plates to spread the load.
Haven't seen a post from you in a very long time, 8Tech. Good to see you back on here. Personally, I've learned a lot from following your posts and DIYs.
Regards,
-Chris
like 98.21% of all strut bars on the market....a proper one (like mentioned by 8tech) should be a solid piece with no pivot points but should also be connected to the fire wall. that being said, how many people will (or actually capable of) pushing an 8 to tha limit were a STB is actually needed?
Its eye candy....buy it to dress up your engine bay
Not buying it because of the name (or the sellers name) is going to be the silliest thing i read today...hopefully
*~*Yamaguchi-gumi Syndicate Member #59,005 *~*
[ Bippu Couture ] ( D_G ) [ FALKEN Tires]
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Looks good, thanks for sharing a picture.
Mark.
I wouldn't call it eye candy. It's the most basic of construction. The flat mounting plates, welding. Your bay looks better without.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
"Solid" meaning no hinges on the bar that move..
The struts themselves dont sit flush with the shock towers either...the mounting plate not covering every dimple on the tower isnt going to make a bit of difference. Anything helps pre-93 cars that dont have the brace on the underside of the car.
New toy for the 8 looks nice!! I wouldnt mind having one myself to brighten up my engine bay a bit
Last edited by DriftGirl; 08-03-2017 at 12:56 AM.
*~*Yamaguchi-gumi Syndicate Member #59,005 *~*
[ Bippu Couture ] ( D_G ) [ FALKEN Tires]
I know what solid means.
My point is, you can have a non-solid bar, but constructed in such a way, it still acts as a solid bar. And you can set preload.
A hinge in the exact plane you try to lock in place, that's just silly. And flat plates, while it may not hinder function, it just looks cheap.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
I was simply clarifying what I meant by "solid". Didnt ask if you knew what "solid" was...dont really care. Nor was I ASKING about what a "proper strut bar is or how one is constructed....I get PAID to track cars on a professional level.
I know what im doing and how things are done....I was sharing, not asking
*~*Yamaguchi-gumi Syndicate Member #59,005 *~*
[ Bippu Couture ] ( D_G ) [ FALKEN Tires]
Then be more clear next time.
Not that it matters. Solid means the same for everyone. Unless laws of physics don't apply to you. After all, you are the professional. Paid one at that.
But excuse me, princess.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Who would've thought the differences in hinge design on a strut bar could have everyone so on edge?
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*~*Yamaguchi-gumi Syndicate Member #59,005 *~*
[ Bippu Couture ] ( D_G ) [ FALKEN Tires]
*~*Yamaguchi-gumi Syndicate Member #59,005 *~*
[ Bippu Couture ] ( D_G ) [ FALKEN Tires]
Thanks everyone for giving opinions and even pictures of actual bar!!!! Not sure if it's gonna help anything at all but maybe it'd be even better to have a "DK" removal & carbon fiber wrap DIY!!
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