E32 740 Trans program

[idunaE32]

My '94 740iL once in a while wont get as much power to the engine and the digital cluster will display TRANS PROGRAM. It isn't as bad since I replaced the original factory spark plugs. Maybe a simple tranny service?

I have a '94 e32 740iL. My issue is every once I a while the newbie will lose about 70% ish power and the screen below the cluster displays TRANS PROGRAM. The power will decrease even if I'm completely on the gas. The rpms just jump. There is usually always a whine. I think the gears are slipping but not sure where. Got an oil change on 22 June and replaced the spark plugs about 3 months ago. I have had the car for about that long. Don't know when an ATF change was last done. I currently intend in getting an OBD adapter so I can get a diagnostic to see what's up. My manual tells me its the electronic shift system or the tranny. Shogun thinks it might be my alternator. Any help, advice or personally relatable occurances? Thank you

[shogun]

I will move it to the E32 section.
First of all unlock the OBC and check the alternator voltage, low voltage can also cause this.
How to unlock the OBC http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_...c_secrets.html

also check fluid level of the trans with running engine, from bottom hole, see here how to http://www.europeantransmissions.com...MWtechinfo.htm

But the problem can also be somewhere else, as trans program is also a protection program = limp home mode. Do a stomp test https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-pedal-faults

[shogun]

I merged the former thread and today's to have it all in one.
Now you mention that you hear a whine sometimes, this is often typical in case the fluid is too low or when the ATF filter gasket does not fit properly and the ATF pump sucks air with the ATF.

So check the ATF and also the filter and the filter o-ring

[whiskychaser]

If the revs shoot up, it sounds like you are losing drive rather than power. Of course, when that happens the TCM will put you in a high gear just to get you home. That may be why it feels like you have lost power too. If the problem happens when you are going round a bend or a corner, it really does point to low ATF. So start by checking the level and then the filter as Shogun suggests.

[shogun]

Just in case you want to see pics how to change trans fluid and filter, How to change the transmission fluid and filter on a 1996 BMW 750iL http://www.e38.org/zf-5hp30-service.html

Fluid level checking procedure for GM & ZF (without dipstick):
1. The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before checking can begin. Use the DIS or the MODIC to determine the transmission temperature.
2. The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running, switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
3. Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
4. With the engine running and the selector lever in Park position, remove the filler plug located on the transmission (see picture for location). If a small stream of oil runs out, the fluid level is correct.
5. If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low. Add oil until it starts to overflow.
6. With the engine running, reinstall the oil filler plug (for proper tightening torque refer to chart below).

Adding oil after transmission repairs:
1. With the engine stopped, add oil to the transmission until it overflows.
2. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Place the selector lever in Park position and start the engine.
3. Follow the fluid level checking procedure as described under step A.


It is preferred to check the transmission fluid level at 30°C, this way the transmission will hold extra oil versus topping off at 50°C. If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level checking procedure, the resulting oil level will be too low.
Have necessary equipment, oil pump and transmission fluid available before starting the fluid level checking procedure.

If oil level is too LOW:
Valve chatter, foam formation engine power is not fully transmitted to the rear wheels. Generally incorrect operation

If oil level is too HIGH:
Heavy foam formation, increase in engine temperature when driving fast, loss of oil through the vent.

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...0Autotrans.pdf

[whiskychaser]

The ATF goes from 30c to 50c fairly quickly. So it is perhaps best to make this a two man job - one with foot FIRMLY on the brake and moving through the gears, the other doing the actual filling.

[MMMEAT]

I got the program message this morning on the way to work after a "jump" shift attempt and a clunk..had to stop and rest the car for a good couple minutes and made it reset no problem. But I've been closely watching a drip collection on the concrete under my parking spot at home in the garage and can tell that (I believe) the linkage shaft seal(s) are unfortunately not getting into shape now that I'm driving the car again for the first time in years and years.

It is amazing that just the smallest change in fluid level can make such a difference. I'd bet I haven't lost a half-cup in the last 3 months..

[shogun]

Just change the seal http://bmwe32.masscom.net/dutch740/s...ectorshaft.htm
original one is meanwhile pretty expensive, but there are aftermarket ones from CRP, TOPRAN and Corteco which cost around $2-3 a piece, buy some, did my one some weeks ago and damaged 2 new ones and the 3rd new one works now. The trick is not to damage the new seal lips on the shaft when installing it. My wrenching buddy told ne the trick, he uses masking tape to cover the sharp corners of the shaft during installation and after installation you remove the masking tape.

[whiskychaser]

I got the program message this morning on the way to work after a "jump" shift attempt and a clunk..had to stop and rest the car for a good couple minutes and made it reset no problem. But I've been closely watching a drip collection on the concrete under my parking spot at home in the garage and can tell that (I believe) the linkage shaft seal(s) are unfortunately not getting into shape now that I'm driving the car again for the first time in years and years.

It is amazing that just the smallest change in fluid level can make such a difference. I'd bet I haven't lost a half-cup in the last 3 months..

Maybe the straw that broke the camel's back? What is a jump shift? Doesn't sound too kind on the trans