I installed some new cabs when I did a front end refresh....coilovers, sway bar bushings, control arms, tie rods, end links....I have noticed that one of my cabs seems to have moved some and is no longer flush with the control arm. How does this happen and should I try to remove and reinstall? I know it was flush when I installed it.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
What kind of bushing, and did it move towards the back or the front of the car?
95 cosmoschwartz M3/2/5 : 2012-1/1/2014 (worn rtab's and bald rear tires in the rain)
98 cosmoschwartz M3/4/5 : 2016-3/10/2017 (understeering SUV)
99 Estoril M3/2/5: 6/16/2017-current
Its a lemforder and the bushing moved towards the lollipop....when I installed them, they were both flush with the control arm, all the way back. Now, just the passenger side has crepped backward just a quarter inch or so
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Did you lubricate the bushing on install? Instructions call for something that dries, like soapy water, windex, isopropanol, etc. I can see this happening from oily lube.
I used dish washer soap on install and got both sides installed and lowered the car down within 30 minutes, and didn't drive or move the car within 24 hours.....again, only the passenger side moved
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
should have gone in dry.... lol
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
That 30 minutes thing only applies if you use the BMW lubricant (aka kerosene).
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
CAB.jpg
Here is a pic where you can see the slight gap.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
I thought that the metal part of the bushing was supposed to be pressed into the lollipop and be close to flush on both sides. How much of the control arm is protruding behind the bushing? From that picture, I think its not quite right, but still fine.
95 cosmoschwartz M3/2/5 : 2012-1/1/2014 (worn rtab's and bald rear tires in the rain)
98 cosmoschwartz M3/4/5 : 2016-3/10/2017 (understeering SUV)
99 Estoril M3/2/5: 6/16/2017-current
It can't really go anywhere ... I'd keep an eye on it, but probably not much to worry about. Are you inner balljoints tight and no play?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
interesting.. never seen that before.. im about to do mine too
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Looks perfectly fine to me. The bushing probably floated down the arm a little to match the bracket's mounting position on the body. It doesn't need to be fully pressed up against the arm part. It just needs to be somewhere along that round extension rod without having to stretch forward or back to meet the bracket's position. And then of course it needs to take a set in that position at normal ride height.
Great, just me being paranoid. I have a vibration in my steering wheel...not a shake or shimmy, and I was wondering if it might be because the control arm bushing was no longer flush, but its probably my solid passenger engine mount, poly sway bar bushings, ha!
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
In my experience, a huge contributor to annoying vibrations in these cars is transmission mounts. The higher durometer or more solid those are the more vibration you feel. The trans mounts seem to make more difference than engine mounts too. A lightweight flywheel accentuates the effect. If you're currently running poly transmission mounts matching your engine mounts, maybe try swapping the trans parts to OEM rubber and see if things get better. It's quick & easy to try. When my car was street driven I ran nothing but OEM rubber engine and transmission mounts. They were by far the smoothest.
Also: hard to tell by your wording above, but if you're running one solid engine mount on the passenger side and a different mount material on the driver side that would likely cause some weirdness too.
I can't think of a way that poly sway bar bushings would cause vibration. You're probably ok there.
I'm running a solid passenger mount to clear the turbo inlet. My transmission mounts are E46 M3 mounts and I might have some reinforcement cups too...need to check. No lightweight flywheel.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
E46 trans mounts won't cause NVH. Its probably the solid motor mount. Not a great idea on a street car.
I think I'm running the TRM engine mount. I wonder if I can go back to a stock engine mount now that I'm running the old steedspeed manifold with the GT4094r instead of the spa manifold/6262.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
With the old steedspeed you probably can depending on turbo. I ran a stock size Vorshlag mount with old steedspeed and 1.05 efr8374 but don't know how the 8374 compares physically to the 4094. The 8374 1.05 turbine housing was hitting the control arm eyeball bracket. I had to grind the bracket.
John at CES just confirmed that I can't run the stock motor mount....oh well, I'll live with the vibration I guess. Might be time to replace the little guibo at the end of the steering column too
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
an old school BMW only mechanic said turpentine is the liquid on choice for install control arm bushings- lubricates then dries.
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