So I ordered all new lugs for the car. I figured I would go around and make sure all come off and put some antisez on them. All went well except one. There's ALWAYS one. I have tried everything they make and sell for stuck and now stripped lugs. When i say stripped I mean rounded to the point of no return. I'm also looking to get my rims refinished and have some curb rashes fixed and freshen up. Anyway. Can anyone sugeat how to get this lug off? It's really bad and I'm at the point where I'm gonna have to drill it and try to extract it but not sure what size bit and bolt extractor to use. Here is a pic of the lug. When i say it's completely f... it's F............
Last edited by shogun; 08-11-2017 at 07:17 PM. Reason: foul language reoved
Take one of your lug bolts with you and visit a Auto Supply house or hardware store and purchase a easy out and PB Blaster.
This kit has sizes from 1-6 for extractors aka easy out. And yea I plan on getting a can of PB... I just wanted to make sure that this was kinda my last resort lol. My new lugs will actually be here today so that is a good thing.
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Or go to a tire store and have them get it off with the tools they use when you don't have the key to get the locking lug nut off
THIS is something I would have professionally done....there are tricks to it.
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wow, you really got yourself in a pickle on that one. i think an extractor is your best bet.
Personally I would just drill the head off. After that you can just unthread the remaining from the hub. Get good drill bits.start with a smaller one 1/4" then use a 1/2" or 9/16" even better
The lug nut thread is 14mm in diameter. If he drills it with a 9/16" drill that is .5625" 14mm is .5541" the taper will not be attached to the threaded part of the the lug bolt
Take it to a professional before you make it any worse.
And, I'm fairly certain the thread pitch on an E60 is 12 x 1.5. They didn't start using the 14 x 1.25 until later models.
Or, does a 12 x 1.5 thread pitch actually measure at 14 mm and not 12 mm?
Last edited by White94RX; 07-11-2017 at 12:46 PM.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
I also recommend going to a shop. I can't imagine the cost being huge. Just take the new bolts with you and have them address that one wheel. You can change out all the others.
Otherwise, the drilling out recommendation is the way to go. If you decide to drill it out on your own, start with a smaller drill and work your way up the size range. When you size up to the thread diameter at the base of the cone, the head should release. A second approach is to drill to a couple sizes under the threads, then use a hammer and chisel to smack/shear the head of the bolt when the bolt sidewalls are thin. Yet another less known trick is to try left handed drills. As they cut into the bolt, they also vibrate it and apply removal torque. In some cases, the drilling alone ends up backing out the bolt, but wheel lug bolts are on at pretty big torque.
Jose
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
It depends on the shop...here in the Bronx these idiots had no clue what to do. I took my car home, broke out the blow torch, heated that sucker for five minutes straight, then took one of those stripped bolt adapter kits from Craftsmen to the lug. It came right off immediately. I didn't use any drill bit, etc.
I don't know how well an easy-out will work on something that has been torqued to 90 ft/lb
I'd take it to a good tire shop...
Yep, I did that when I bought a car with locking lugs and no key. O'Reilly's had a kit for removing those keyed lugs, and my Milwualkee Fuel M18 impact wrench took it right off. Pretty much made it clear that that "locking lugnuts" are so easily defeated it's not even funny.
Remove the disk, then hit the bolt with some PB blaster several times, over the course of a few days. There should be enough bolt sticking out that you can get a pair of vice grips on it and wiggle it a tiny bit to break the stiction. If that doesn't do it, then I recommend welding a nut to the exposed bolt piece so you can get a wrench/socket on there.
Jose
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
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