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Hello, my passenger side front window currently needs to have its two sliding pivot clips replaced. I tried to do it on my own and got too frustrated and had to set it down. Im sure if i kept trying I could eventually get it, but I would rather know the right way to replace them. I am so incredibly frustrated due to the fact that somehow there is not a SINGLE DIY on how to replace them on E36's yet it is a veryyyy common problem. If someone could direct me to a nonexistent DIY or explain to me the easiest way to replace them that would be great. Thank you.
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No easy way really... pull out the ball joint pop the tabs out and slide out your old ones... replace, put the ball joint in and use needle nose pliers to put the pins back in... just make sure your Windows in the guides or your going to be redoing it
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Honestly man window regulators suck big balls. Ive done two head gaskets and id rather pay someone to do the window regulator.
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Originally Posted by chrishatcher
This just about sums it all up. Nothing magical, just frustration and finger cramps from the tight quarters.
Caprica Junkie
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I would use that multi adjustable pliers in the trunk kit to snap the clip on. I recall seeing a process when doing the door handle replacement.
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Watch youtube videos. Also the bentley manual has some advice.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+window+guides
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
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BMW CCA Member
Wow, I need to do this on both windows. These comments don't give me the warm fuzzies.
Member
It's not difficult, you just have to look at it and do it carefully. Take your time that you don't chop off any fingers. Slide out the old nylon pieces, slide in new ones. Snap the steel balls back into the nylon pieces and then put the metal clip on. The window should be a few inches from the bottom, that is where you will have access to both sliders.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
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I think trick is to clamp the window at the right height. I recently replace the passenger side .
Clean out the old grease and dirt in the tracks - big difference !
I had no issue pulling ball out as I removed the clip first .
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most frustrating step is getting/keeping window into the front and rear vertical guides to finish.
most of assist comments above are spot on. i have done my car front windows 5 times. the first time i did alone and was extremely lucky to align glass into 2 guides to finish. the next 3 times i had helper and even then alignment into 2 guides was a bi4ch. only the last time did we figure out was best to remove the inner rubber window seal aka as window inner sealing lip. with that removed it is far easier to see down/align window into vertical guides and keep it there. replacing this window seal was easy at end.
also, only use oe plastic sliders during repair. i suspect using aftermarket sliders at times is why i have had to do each front door more than once.
Last edited by jamin325i; 10-24-2018 at 04:15 PM.
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BMW CCA Member
I've done this repair on a few cars already easily and successfully. All E36s (other models also from those years) need this repair, the sooner the better. You need to keep in mind that you aren't just going inside the door panel to replace a worn-out part (the regulator slider) you are going inside the door panel to fix the factory issue with lubricant. The BMW factory grease that was used (Also inside your sunroof tray) wasn't the best compound when it came to changing weather (hot to very cold..winter) in the winter the compound hardens and begins breaking down, by this time it will be a very hard white-yellowish compound built up in your aluminum window rails. once that compound started to harden and break down your plastic regulator slider took a big hit and began wearing down excessively. Some I've seen worn into that aluminum rail so much that the rail once cleaned had a permanent depression in the track that would always continue causing the window to stop and auto roll down at a certain point. In those cases you need to order a new window or source one with decent aluminum rails on it as they are bolted and urethane glued onto the glass at specific locations.
Onto the repair:
Another issue is BMW used pop rivets for holding the regulator in place, this was a bad design as those rivets come loose over time, besides not being user friendly to work on the regulator. So you need to drill those M6 rivets out and remove your regulator. Once the regulator is removed you can have good clear access to the window aluminum rails to properly clean them with a tooth brush (use brake cleaner to dilute the old hardened grease and remove all of it) make sure not to spray anything onto the window glass as it will be a greasy mess to clean up if you do. Put an absorbent rag on the inside bottom of your door and use a piece of wood to hold the window up a few inches to the right working height so you can clean it well. After cleaning, use white lithium grease from a proper grease can or tube (not the shit spray on stuff because that has an agent that dilutes the lithium grease to make it spray-able and it seriously alters the lithium grease performance).
Now install your new plastic sliders, make sure you leave the clips on the sliders fully engaged as they come from bmw in the packaging ( all you do once the regulator is installed again is pop the ball pins on the regulator arms into the plastic sliders, they pop right in when the clips are already secured onto the plastic sliders)
To install the regulator back on properly, DO NOT rivet it again. Make sure when you drill the rivets out the first time you use an appropriately sized drill bit and a good drill as to not butcher the door panel holes!
Do Not use bolts and nuts either..
The proper way to do this and how it should have been done is using m6 knurled rivet Nuts, now because the rivet nuts are M6 their outer diameter is going to be a bit bigger towards 9-10mm depending on what kind you get. To install rivet nuts you need a rivet mandrel for the proper rivet size you will be using and a nut rivet tool ($50ish on Mcmaster.com) the tool is worth it and very handy in a variety of cases. That website will tell you what hole is needed for what rivet nut and they have the drills, everything you'd ever imagine for a shop, just search there.
With the rivet nuts installed on the door panel you can mount the regulator, you can order a few Stainless steel domed head Allen socket M6 bolts (15-20mm long, i forget) also from MCmaster along with matching M6 star lock washers to dig into the domed head Allen bolts and the regulator face so they don't come loose. Also when installing the M6 bolts put a drop of blue or red loctite to fully secure them.
* When installing the Bolts onto the regulator, just approach all the bolts together to hug the regulator and make any final adjustment now to make sure your window seats properly going up and that it goes sup straight (the regulator always has a bit of play left to right until the bolts are fully tightened) once you are happy fully tighten the bolts onto the star lock washers and assemble your door panel back together.
This all seems harder than it is.. the most important part besides using knurled M6 rivet nuts is using the M6 star lock washers, they keep the assembly from moving at all. If i find I have pictures I will edit this and post them.
Last edited by Fix.a.ZX; 10-26-2018 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Wording
Member
Lower the window to the right height for access to the clips.
Use two $.10 wood wedges from the local Home Depot to hold the window in place.
Pull the clips, remove the sliders.
Slide in the new sliders, WITH CLIPS ATTACHED, position and snap the balls in.
(there's no need to fight with the clips)
Last edited by tjm3; 10-26-2018 at 11:17 AM.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
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BMW CCA Member
TJM3, you don't actually need to stress about removing the clips on the plastic sliders when removing the regulators ball pins. Just use a fork type panel remover to pop them out, them come out quite easily.
On that note also inspect your regulators ball pins as they could be worn out flat on a side from rubbing against the bare securing clip without lubrication.
Have a good install everyone!
Member
Yeah, I know, but it's made out to be an issue here.
Actually, just leave the clips alone on removal and installation. Just pry out the arm/ball for removal. It'll crack the plastic but it doesn't matter.
Then press into the new slider and clip. No need to touch the U-clip, ever.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
Member
I love the idea of the wedges to hold up the window! I will use that idea next time, I expect there will be a next time too!
Pulling the rubber off the top is a must IMO to get the window into the rail in the front.
CLEAN AND REGRASE the slider rail. Its maybe dried up and dirty.
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Ive recently gotten much better at this. Tip the window forward and align the front vertical guide thru the sight hole. Then tip it back all the way into the rear vertical guide. Adjust the height until the holes on the regulator align with the door. Rivet that b!tch down. Plastic sliders get installed on the window first and then the regulator clips into them very satisfyingly.
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Last edited by XnWarden; 11-03-2018 at 11:28 AM.
Member
What is the factory recommended grease for the plastic window track clips? Grease from the factory is white and plasticizes over time, an inherent by product of the grease most likely.
Also, does anyone know the correct black caulking used to glue in the the black foam door panel seal?
Last edited by Ratinoff; 09-16-2019 at 01:08 AM.
Member
Just use some white lithium general purpose grease. Comes in a tube, tub or spray can. The spray cans are handy to have around.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
I <3 My Sharpie e36
Strong and fresh suction cups tied together with a shoelace or something decent. It will be your friend and hold the window in place. Jamming wood into weather seals sound like a bad time.
Buy the OEM clips, it's worth it. Warm them with a hair dryer before popping the pivots into place. Keep the metal spring clips in the middle position, just like they are.
White lithium grease is what hardens into clay like sludge, there's far better solutions to that. Moly based grease or Wurth HHS 2000 will treat you better.
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