New(to me) '84 325e, and I have questions.

[Brad3677]

Hey Everyone, I'll definitely admit I am new to the world of motoring and certainly new to the world of E30's. This car is my first purchase and while it does have its issues I'm still happy with it and excited for the future with this car. With that said, lets get down to the issues.

So, I was aware of it when I purchased the car but it has a starting issue. Usually the car will start right up every time but sometimes, especially when I am in a hurry, the car will crank and crank and crank but wont fire up. However, if you push start the car it will start up just fine(a skill I am still acquiring.) I ordered a new ignition switch per advice of our usual mechanic.

Now, when I do start the car the RPMs will jump up to 2K and then go back down to 1K. Not sure what that is about, any advice appreciated.

Also, sometimes I'll be driving and sometimes when I start the car the RPM's will lower down to 500 to 800 and the car will want to die unless I floor it and watch all the black smoke come out the tail pipe. Go out on a limb and guess that that is a fuel issue, but I'm looking for advice before i start throwing money at the car.

I've added some pictures, my dad and I were working on the car. Looking at hoses to replace and opened that up to find fuel in those lines that go to that plastic T and then into the intake manifold. Wondering if there is supposed to be fuel in those lines?

Those are the main 4 issues I'd like to take care of now. After that I'll worry about not having AC in regularly over 100 degree weather lol.

[richardodn]

Idle issues - try cleaning the internals of the idle control valve (ICV). They can get sticky causing odd issues. It's the cylinder shaped thing with the 2 wire connection in the first picture.

The fuel lines are correct. The fuel system has a supply line that goes to the tee. One branch goes to the fuel rail and the other to the cold start injector. The injector is the thing bolted to the intake manifold. On the other end of the fuel rail is the pressure regulator and then the return line. I will say that the parts used aren't the correct hoses but the layout is fine. Check the date codes on the fuel lines. If they're older than 15 years, you should consider replacing them. I also recommend replacing that plastic tee with a brass one. Get a 5/16" barbed tee from the hardware store.

It sounds like you already have, but be sure to check the vacuum hoses and intake boot for cracking.

You may also find this link useful: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?vin=1007682

[E30Garage]

I agree with cleaning the internals of the idle control valve (ICV) ^^^

[325e '87]

My car sometimes cranks for a long time and acts like it floods itself and when it does start there's just too much gas in the intake so the first few seconds are rough.

a friend suggested I get "hotter" spark plugs for quicker starts. I just installed the often recommended ngk plugs (copper core) and I explained to my friend that the newer plugs(platinum or tungsten or whatever) just don't work well in a 30 year old car, these M20 engines likely don't have the capability to power a "hot" plug.

maybe ask around and see what experts have to say on it....

[bobdavisnpf]

My understanding of BMW recommendation for M20 engine:
Bosch W8LCR - Standard Copper Core
and BMW alternative recommendation:
Bosch W8LPR - Single Electrode Platinum
NGK ZGR5A should also be good.

My M20 had W8LCR when I got it and they're still good. I'll replace them with new W8LCR when the time comes.

If something else is wrong, putting in the wrong plugs will probably not make it right

[E30Garage]

Bosch W8LCR is the right plugs.

Have you done a full tune up yet?

I noticed your ignition wires look pretty old, a cracked distributor cap will cause some starting issues, etc.

Replacing the ignition wires, cap and rotor, air and fuel filters, clean idle control valve, all this will help the engine run better.

[estoguy]

The NGK plugs, ZGR5A, are a great substitute, and at least where I am, more readily available. I've been running them in my Eta for over four years, no trouble at all. They are also factory set to the wider end of the gap range, which helps steady the idle.

[Brad3677]

New update! So after I made that post I spent some time replacing vacuum hoses and what not. I also cleaned the ICV, new airfilter, new intake boot, all kinds of stuff. Most of my idle issues have gone away. The only real issue I've been having is that every once in a while the car still needs a bump start. Sometimes the problem is solved when I spray starter fluid into the intake boot, but other days it requires a bump start. It cranks just fine whenever it has the issue it just wont start up. The issue actually made me want to buy another car so I bought a new dodge Ram, but aint no way im selling the beamer yet. Is it come sort of electrical issue with the fuel system?