failing smog help??????

[Mescudi]

i have 1984 bmw 318i and i failed smog twice.........

the first time i got gross polluter and was given advise to change the cat so i did..... here are my readings for my first smog test https://ton.twitter.com/1.1/ton/data...1/hbfLS5VG.jpg


i was also having overheating problems at the time and wanted to upgrade to a later model radiator and swap an electric fan for the clutch fan..... so i did this aswell ........my car runs amazing now. no problems

so i swapped the cat out for a new one and made sure i had no exhaust leaks i went to the smog and was told i couldnt have the electric fan to a toggle switch ("reason i failed smog") i was told my check engine light doesnt work and my evap failed aswell! my readings for second smog: https://ton.twitter.com/1.1/ton/data...9/drfwc4P1.jpg

Since all this has happened i tightened a hose clamp on the fuel filler neck since it leaks when i fill the gas tank all the way up and i believe it wasn't keeping pressure but i think there still might be something wrong with the evap system

now for the check engine light i take out the cluster changed the bulbs that did nothing....but one thing that ive noticed is that when i flip the key for the ignition the parking brake light comes on so does the brake lining and the battery light... correct me if im wrong but i believe that most of the lights on the cluster are supposed to come on but they dont.... tomorrow im going to check a ton of things but hopefully someone can give me a simple solution to my problem

i love this car and want to pass smog so ican keep going with my build!


I have the bentley manual and thats where i get my info but id love to get some help from you guys!!!!

[richardodn]

None of your images show. Try just transcribing the results here.

Your fan arrangement needs its own thread with exactly what and how it was changed. Typical methods to convert to electric fan use the aux fan circuits to trigger and a lower temp thermo switch.

Don't know what the Cali testing method is for the evap system. Likely you need to be able to pull a vacuum when they do the gas cap test. Besides possible issues with a leak in the filler neck, you'll need to inspect hoses, etc. I believe that early system only has a check valve instead of a solenoid valve.

Yes the lights should come on. This is called the prove-out function. I'm not sure what triggers the light to come on at start on the early Jetronic systems. If I get a chance I'll see if I can find it.

[Mescudi]

all i did was remove the odl radiator along with the clutch fan (keep in mind thats all the cooling components that came on the car) then i added the later model aluminum radiator along with a puller fan wired to the battery and a switch that i control

yah i checked me hoses a couple clamps were loose so i tightened those up but the filler neck might be a problem still :\ gonna check that today again

yah well my check engine light doesnt even come on during the start up process of the car along with the "brake" and "oil"








first smog test results:
comprehensive visual inspection: pass
functional check: pass
Emissions test: gross polluter


i passed everything on emission control systems visual inspection/functional check results:
OBD system checks: not applicable
wiring to sensors: pass
fuel evaporate controls functional: pass


ASM Emission test results:
HC (ppm)
15mph MAX: 148 GP: 324 MEAS: 261
25mph MAX: 86 GP: 274 Meas: 100


CO (%)
15mph MAX: 0.62 GP: 2.39 MEAS: 0.59
25mph MAX: 0.48 GP: 2.19 MEAS: 0.04


NO (ppm)


15mph MAX: 834 AVE: 2231 GP: 2906
25mph MAX: 715 AVE: 2031 GP: 2325


alright so one catalytic converter later and i re-smogged my car
I also swapped in the new radiator and added a electric fan to a toggle switch






second smog results(only showing what i failed):
comprehensive visual inspection: tamper
functional check: fail
emissions check: fail

emission control systems visual inspection/functional check results:


wiring to sensors: modified ( i dont get this one...unless its my fan switch?)
fuel evaporate controls functional: fail
OBD systems check: fail (this one throw me off cause the other places didnt check this)


ASM Emission test results:
i passed all except
( no (ppm) )
15mph max: 834 ave: 471 Meas: 1753
25mph max: 715 ave: 379 Meas: 1672

[Mescudi]

all i did was remove the odl radiator along with the clutch fan (keep in mind thats all the cooling components that came on the car) then i added the later model aluminum radiator along with a puller fan wired to the battery and a switch that i control

yah i checked me hoses a couple clamps were loose so i tightened those up but the filler neck might be a problem still :\ gonna check that today again

yah well my check engine light doesnt even come on during the start up process of the car along with the "brake" and "oil"








first smog test results:
comprehensive visual inspection: pass
functional check: pass
Emissions test: gross polluter


i passed everything on emission control systems visual inspection/functional check results:
OBD system checks: not applicable
wiring to sensors: pass
fuel evaporate controls functional: pass


ASM Emission test results:
HC (ppm)
15mph MAX: 148 GP: 324 MEAS: 261
25mph MAX: 86 GP: 274 Meas: 100


CO (%)
15mph MAX: 0.62 GP: 2.39 MEAS: 0.59
25mph MAX: 0.48 GP: 2.19 MEAS: 0.04


NO (ppm)


15mph MAX: 834 AVE: 2231 GP: 2906
25mph MAX: 715 AVE: 2031 GP: 2325


alright so one catalytic converter later and i re-smogged my car
I also swapped in the new radiator and added a electric fan to a toggle switch






second smog results(only showing what i failed):
comprehensive visual inspection: tamper
functional check: fail
emissions check: fail

emission control systems visual inspection/functional check results:


wiring to sensors: modified ( i dont get this one...unless its my fan switch?)
fuel evaporate controls functional: fail
OBD systems check: fail (this one throw me off cause the other places didnt check this)


ASM Emission test results:
i passed all except
( no (ppm) )
15mph max: 834 ave: 471 Meas: 1753
25mph max: 715 ave: 379 Meas: 1672

[Mescudi]

all i did was remove the odl radiator along with the clutch fan (keep in mind thats all the cooling components that came on the car) then i added the later model aluminum radiator along with a puller fan wired to the battery and a switch that i control

yah i checked me hoses a couple clamps were loose so i tightened those up but the filler neck might be a problem still :\ gonna check that today again

yah well my check engine light doesnt even come on during the start up process of the car along with the "brake" and "oil"








first smog test results:
comprehensive visual inspection: pass
functional check: pass
Emissions test: gross polluter


i passed everything on emission control systems visual inspection/functional check results:
OBD system checks: not applicable
wiring to sensors: pass
fuel evaporate controls functional: pass


ASM Emission test results:
HC (ppm)
15mph MAX: 148 GP: 324 MEAS: 261
25mph MAX: 86 GP: 274 Meas: 100


CO (%)
15mph MAX: 0.62 GP: 2.39 MEAS: 0.59
25mph MAX: 0.48 GP: 2.19 MEAS: 0.04


NO (ppm)


15mph MAX: 834 AVE: 2231 GP: 2906
25mph MAX: 715 AVE: 2031 GP: 2325


alright so one catalytic converter later and i re-smogged my car
I also swapped in the new radiator and added a electric fan to a toggle switch






second smog results(only showing what i failed):
comprehensive visual inspection: tamper
functional check: fail
emissions check: fail

emission control systems visual inspection/functional check results:


wiring to sensors: modified ( i dont get this one...unless its my fan switch?)
fuel evaporate controls functional: fail
OBD systems check: fail (this one throw me off cause the other places didnt check this)


ASM Emission test results:
i passed all except
( no (ppm) )
15mph max: 834 ave: 471 Meas: 1753
25mph max: 715 ave: 379 Meas: 1672

[richardodn]

Generally speaking, high hydrocarbons (HC) indicate unburned fuel. Although it's possible you could be running rich, the usual cause is a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak causes the car to run lean; especially at idle. Lean burn means misfires which lets through unburned fuel. There's also the usual ignition suspects for misfires.

High nitrogen oxides (NOx) comes from high combustion temperatures. From the sound of things, you may still have cooling system issues.

The place that failed you on an OBD systems check are idiots. You don't have one and weren't even around until well into the 90's. I think Cali may have mandated a more primitive version, but even that would not have applied to an 84 as it didn't exist.

Once again, evap failures can come from a number of sources. Assuming it's not the tank, the actual system is pretty simple. Find the charcoal canister. One hose connection goes back to the gas tank. The other hose goes to the intake manifold. On the hose that goes to the intake manifold, there should be some device that limits or controls the times and amount that a vacuum is applied to suck vapors from the tank. There are 3 typical methods this is done. Yours is most likely a restrictor although a vacuum controlled one is possible. You won't have and electrical control. From my notes:

Restrictor	Some applications simply had an inline restrictor/check valve placed in the vacuum line. These are easily identified. They have no electrical connections and only in/out vacuum lines. No testing is necessary. However they must be installed so that the arrows point toward the intake manifold.
Vacuum	Some applications used a vacuum controlled evaporative system. These are identified by two larger vacuum connections and one smaller control vacuum connection.
	1. Try to blow air through the valves larger port. Air should not flow.
	2. Apply a vacuum to the smaller port and repeat 1. Air should now pass.
	Any failure means the unit should be replaced.
Electric	Motronic 1.1 and 1.3 used an electrically operated valve. The valve is located below the throttle body. It's connected to the throttle body by a molded rubber boot. If that boot has developed cracks or other deterioration, it must be replaced. The original boot is no longer available. Replacement is a section of right angle fuel hose cut to fit. PN 13311288284.
	1. Remove the valve and attempt to blow through it. Air should not flow.
	2. Reconnect the electrical connection. Turn on the ignition to run. There should be an audible click as the valve opens.
	3. Disconnect the electrical connections and reinstall the vacuum lines. Place a voltmeter or test light across the connector terminals.
	4. Start the engine. At idle the valve should be closed.

[thejlevie]

You can install the BMW coolant switch and a relay to control the fan. Note that when the temperature is high enough to activate the high temp switch, the low temp switch opens. Somewhere (possibly BavAuto) I found a single switch that closed a bit higher than normal operating temperature (80C), which is what I used on my race cars. I prefer that over a toggle switch since the fan will come on when needed and I don't have to watch the gauge. I also had a toggle switch override just in case.