computiNATEor's Build Log - Seabiscuit, Otto, and Manuel

[computiNATEor]

Shocks and springs arrived. I’m going to take them to my mechanic and ask if I can use their spring compressor; I’ve got all new parts and I want to make sure the washers and whatnot go in correctly, especially with peter540’s recent experience.

Also finished up my headlight washer delete by swapping out the tank for the one from my non- cold weather package parts car. I put copious amounts of RTV around the pump and level sensor, and I plugged the vent tube (I still don’t understand WTH the BMW engineers were thinking) with a bolt, RTV and a hose clamp.

I finally plumbed and wired the E60 windshield sprayer nozzles for the first time since the hood was painted months ago. Reinstalled the hood pad after beating out the dust and peeling off the cobwebs. Everything between the pump and the nozzles is new (including the fill tube, because the old one crumbled as I removed the tank); the pump and nozzles were both removed from my parts car.

Lots of things on this car are from that car, including the trunk, rear bumper, various fastening hardware, alternator, DISA, power steering pump pulley, nav bracket, floor mats, and a bunch more I’m probably forgetting.

[computiNATEor]

Geezuz. My CSB was way, way bad.

[JimLev]

Surprised you didn't feel it banging around in the mount.

[philly98540]

Ooof. Yeah. Toast. More wrenching fun for you!

[computiNATEor]

Ooof. Yeah. Toast. More wrenching fun for you!

Thankfully, this was already in the cards. I just didn’t know it was THAT bad.

[dannyzabolotny]

Yep, mine was just as bad in the 540it, yet somehow I managed to drive with it like that for 6 months... I just drove reeeaaaally gently. Of course my gas mileage went down sharply as soon as I replaced the CSB and guibo, because it meant that every single green light became a drag race launch.

[computiNATEor]

Yep, mine was just as bad in the 540it, yet somehow I managed to drive with it like that for 6 months... I just drove reeeaaaally gently. Of course my gas mileage went down sharply as soon as I replaced the CSB and guibo, because it meant that every single green light became a drag race launch.

I mean, it was a noticeable vibration, but I didn't suspect anything like that. I've not exactly been kind to it, either. Guibo is still in pretty reasonable condition, but it's being replaced, too.

I get back under there tomorrow

[dannyzabolotny]

I mean, it was a noticeable vibration, but I didn't suspect anything like that. I've not exactly been kind to it, either. Guibo is still in pretty reasonable condition, but it's being replaced, too.

I get back under there tomorrow

Mine was like somebody was kicking the floor underneath my seat every time I’d pull away from a stop. Whole bunch of thumping.

[Jason5driver]

I mean, it was a noticeable vibration, but I didn't suspect anything like that. I've not exactly been kind to it, either. Guibo is still in pretty reasonable condition, but it's being replaced, too.

I get back under there tomorrow

Your video was hilarious... LOL.
I wonder if it that bad on my car.
Is doing this DIY difficult ?
I have the parts, I just need to find the time and patience.

[computiNATEor]

Mine was like somebody was kicking the floor underneath my seat every time I’d pull away from a stop. Whole bunch of thumping.

I had had a reverberation only on decel from 3k to 2k. Maybe the manual makes things better?

Your video was hilarious... LOL.
I wonder if it that bad on my car.
Is doing this DIY difficult ?
I have the parts, I just need to find the time and patience.

Dropping the exhaust is tricky on your back with jack stands. It’s very heavy. Thankfully, my California car has never seen salt so it was easy to disconnect and remove.

[computiNATEor]

Still plugging away at things slowly.

Ordered a strut bar. My left front shock tower is slightly mushroomed because it had no bump stop. But only the left side?!

[computiNATEor]

Finally got the trans out, after wrestling with the bell housing bolts on the ground. Going to be fun to put that back together...

Dual-mass flywheel is TOAST. Very loose. It joins the pile of scrap metal, including a bent up trunklid, busted hood, busted bumpers, and front sway bar.

- - - Updated - - -

Also removed rear main seal. It was definitely replaced with the last clutch change around 150k mi. Clutch still had plenty of life, but the self-adjusting mechanism will hopefully be no match for an E34 M5 PP + clutch in feel, especially once the CDV is gone.

I'm excited to begin reassembly.

[Jason5driver]

Finally got the trans out, after wrestling with the bell housing bolts on the ground. Going to be fun to put that back together...

Dual-mass flywheel is TOAST. Very loose. It joins the pile of scrap metal, including a bent up trunklid, busted hood, busted bumpers, and front sway bar.

- - - Updated - - -

Also removed rear main seal. It was definitely replaced with the last clutch change around 150k mi. Clutch still had plenty of life, but the self-adjusting mechanism will hopefully be no match for an E34 M5 PP + clutch in feel, especially once the CDV is gone.

I'm excited to begin reassembly.

Pictures ?
What is a "PP" ?

[computiNATEor]

Pictures ?
What is a "PP" ?

Pressure plate

6CFED53B-D909-4B54-98A1-198EA4154142.jpg

[computiNATEor]

Anyone have any brilliant ideas for pilot bearing removal? I've tried a small slide hammer (2lb) and smashing in wet shop towels (with a tight-fitting 10mm socket and extension, plus 3lb dead blow), but no dice. The bearing is IN there tight.

Going to rent a 5lb slide hammer tomorrow.

[dannyzabolotny]

Have you tried the bread trick? It's kinda stupid but it works.

[computiNATEor]

Have you tried the bread trick? It's kinda stupid but it works.

No, lol. I'll have to try that after I try the bigger slide hammer and pick out all the wet paper.

[s13flyboy]

Grease and a socket is another trick. Basically anything non compressible to take up the space.

[philly98540]

That bigger slide hammer should get it. If not, I go bread vs grease for less mess as some will squirt.

[computiNATEor]

That bigger slide hammer should get it. If not, I go bread vs grease for less mess as some will squirt.

Yep, worked a treat! Three quick, firm yanks and it was out. The old bearing is slightly thicker and carries different markings than the F.A.G. bearing that will replace it.

The casing was bent inwards from all the stuff I tried yesterday. Either way, super satisfying to have it come out.

741BF025-C372-4934-A749-5A4F7CD50E5D.jpg

[computiNATEor]

Replacement trans is in (from a 95 M3, according to the VIN tag), starter is reattached, brakes are bled, sway bars are in front and rear, suspension is in and torqued at ride height front and rear. Shifter feels awesome, with a new rod end joint on the shifter shaft, M5Jed's Unicorn Nuggets, and an e60 shift lever. The UUC DSSR does not fit, unfortunately. The new rod end that BMW sells, and the E60 shifter, are wider than the original parts, so as to eliminate the slop caused by those tiny yellow washers. I could grind the ends down slowly, but it's not worth it to me.

Anyone want a UUC DSSR for the standard rod end joint and non-E60 shifter?

Remaining to dos:
- crank engine over to blow out remaining AC Delco Upper Engine cleaner (minimal if any is left)
- Install new spark plugs
- Install engine "beauty" covers
- Fill engine with oil, putting about an ounce in each cylinder to relubricate the cylinder walls
- Install HVAC tubes and passenger filter housing (driver's will stay off until I can get the clutch bled
- Reassemble rear seat
- Reinstall driveshaft, heat shields. The driveshaft has a new CSB, guibo + bolts, end bushing (which was a bear to remove), and new CV joint grease (which I'm expecting to be promptly flung onto the Y-resonator)
- Reinstall exhaust
- Reassemble cooling system (new hoses going in)
- Reassemble front end (brake ducts, etc)

- Crank for a few seconds w/ fuel pump disconnected to prevent dry starting
- Alignment
- Brake and clutch bedding time

I'm having a devil of a time getting the clutch bled after installing a CDV delete valve from UUC. I've tried my usual vacuum bleeding procedure with a Mityvac suction pump, and I've tried to bleed it with my father pumping the pedal, but there is still minimal feel to the pedal. I've ordered an oil can to try and do it this way:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0

[justinca540i]

Damn how much are you gonna have had invested?

[computiNATEor]

Damn how much are you gonna have had invested?

Well, this round is ~$5000 in parts alone....

I really wish I hadn’t looked

Some of those parts, like the UUC flywheel/clutch have been sitting on a shelf for two years, so I didn’t pay all that at once.

[computiNATEor]

Driveshaft is in and torqued. Exhaust is in. Cooling system is in. Power steering lines and reservoir are in. Brake/alternator ducts are in. Tomorrow the fluids go in, and I may just be able to drive it.

If I can bleed the clutch. I got my oil can from Amazon today.

[computiNATEor]

Started her up.

Almost wrapped up, with the exception of the dang clutch hydraulics, and I need to torque the lug bolts. I don’t think I did anything incorrectly, but nothing I do seems to bring any meaningful clutch feel, and the clutch is not disengaging. I’m about ready to roll it out of the driveway and into a shop unless anyone has any ideas. There are no visible leaks in the hydraulics, either in the master or slave cylinder. Do masters/slaves go bad completely randomly and with no leaking?

I have tried:
-vacuum bleed
-pump the pedal a bunch and bleed
-force fluid up through open bleed screw into reservoir to remove bubbles.

NOTHING. AGH.