Drain and fill for coolant contaminated auto transmission?

[Leothelion092]

Thank you guys in advance for the input

So long story short, my automatic transmission oil cooler failed and introduced coolant into my transmission oil and vice versa. I haven't checked transmission fluid or dropped the pan yet but I'm almost positive coolant got in the transmission as well. I have not driven the car since the incident happened and when it did happen I drove the car for a little under two minutes so I'm positive I didn't do very much of any damage to the transmission. My question is, can I just do a drain and fill as well as transmission filter and transmission oil pan gasket replacement once a week for the next three weeks to really get all the contaminated fluid out or should I trailer my car to an auto repair shop and have the transmission professionally flushed? (Pump transmission fluid through transmission oil lines with a machine) if I drain and fill three times (or more if need be) Will that get the rest of the contaminated fluid out? Thanks guys!

[Honolulu]

Depends on what you're paying for ATF versus the cost of having the pros do it.

Don't let it sit too long - internal components may start to rust, creating more little particles to circulate to somewhere they can do real damage or humbug.

[Leothelion092]

Depends on what you're paying for ATF versus the cost of having the pros do it.

Don't let it sit too long - internal components may start to rust, creating more little particles to circulate to somewhere they can do real damage or humbug.

Well I plan on using Redline D4 ATF at $43 a gallon (buying 3 gallons which is 12 quarts) and buying a transmission filter kit which comes with the transmission filter, gasket, and bolt set for the pan from FCPEuro.com which has a lifetime warranty on the oil and kit (unlimited/lifetime returns and warranty) and planning on just draining, replacing filter, gasket, and filling with fresh fluid Once a week for the next three weeks with intermittent driving in between.

& Is a week or two considered a long time sitting?
:-( it's been about a week or so, waiting for parts to come in the mail.

[TonyAngel]

The longer it sits the more of a chance that corrosion will set in, if it's gonna set in at all. I would have gone out and gotten whatever compatible fluid I could find to do the flush ASAP. I also wouldn't just change the fluid then drive it for a week, even intermittently. Dropping the pan, draining, then filling only replaces about 60% of the fluid that's in the transmission/TC. I'd change the fluid and filter, run it while it's on the stands by just going through the gears with my foot on the brake to let it circulate and repeat at least 3 times. Maybe someone that's done it can comment on pulling one of the lines and letting the fluid drain completely. Although I'm not wild about machine flushing the transmission, I'd consider that too under the circumstances.

If it is your intent to have FCPEuro eat the parts cost of your fluid flushes by cashing in on the lifetime warranty on the filter and fluid, I don't think it works that way.

[Leothelion092]

The longer it sits the more of a chance that corrosion will set in, if it's gonna set in at all. I would have gone out and gotten whatever compatible fluid I could find to do the flush ASAP. I also wouldn't just change the fluid then drive it for a week, even intermittently. Dropping the pan, draining, then filling only replaces about 60% of the fluid that's in the transmission/TC. I'd change the fluid and filter, run it while it's on the stands by just going through the gears with my foot on the brake to let it circulate and repeat at least 3 times. Maybe someone that's done it can comment on pulling one of the lines and letting the fluid drain completely. Although I'm not wild about machine flushing the transmission, I'd consider that too under the circumstances.

If it is your intent to have FCPEuro eat the parts cost of your fluid flushes by cashing in on the lifetime warranty on the filter and fluid, I don't think it works that way.

I guess machine flushing is my only real option here then, because if I drain and fill 3 times consecutively I'd have to replace the filter three times for every drain and fill because filter material would soak up water wouldn't it? How do I go about doing this.. & I was just going to ask FCPeuro directly if they really would warranty replace the oil even if it's only used for the drain and fill lol. I mean I asked them if they warranty replace their liquimoly engine oil additive and they said they even replace that when you warranty replace the oil it was used with. I was like whaaaat? No way..

[MarcoZandrini]

FCPEuro will honor the warranty. There's a vid out there of the company accepting old engine oil and replacing it with fresh oil!!! Personally, that's a bit over the top.

[Leothelion092]

FCPEuro will honor the warranty. There's a vid out there of the company accepting old engine oil and replacing it with fresh oil!!! Personally, that's a bit over the top.

Yes this is confirmed, I just got off the phone with them and they said even if I use the fluid just to clean the transmission as long as I send it back or re-purchase it and send the old fluid back I will get a replacement fluid or reimbursement when old fluid is received by them FCP EURO ROCKS GUYS KEEP THEIR BUSINESS AFLOAT BUY FROM THEM

[TonyAngel]

Dang, that's a trip. I'm gonna have to try to find my old receipt because I'm getting ready to have to drain my fluid that only a couple of months old.

[Leothelion092]

Dang, that's a trip. I'm gonna have to try to find my old receipt because I'm getting ready to have to drain my fluid that only a couple of months old.

Email them and give them info I'm sure they'll find it also remember, if they do you can purchase it and do it and then send it and when they receive it they reimburse you

[Eaglesail]

Having been in the marine 'boat' business for 40+ years, I've come across a few boats that sank and with engines and transmissions contaminated with fresh and salt water intrusion. Typically, and after complete oil-fluid drain, torque converter too, the engine and transmission underwent 3 or 4 oil-fluid changes...running the engine-tranny from after the first change subsequently twice more while inspecting each change for water and or evaporating moisture before being secure that no more water contamination existed within the transmission or engine. I suspect the same treatment should be considered for the above posters situation, coolant-oil contamination.

[Leothelion092]

Having been in the marine 'boat' business for 40+ years, I've come across a few boats that sank and with engines and transmissions contaminated with fresh and salt water intrusion. Typically, and after complete oil-fluid drain, torque converter too, the engine and transmission underwent 3 or 4 oil-fluid changes...running the engine-tranny from after the first change subsequently twice more while inspecting each change for water and or evaporating moisture before being secure that no more water contamination existed within the transmission or engine. I suspect the same treatment should be considered for the above posters situation, coolant-oil contamination.

What was the outcome of such procedure, how did the engine and transmission last?

[Eaglesail]

Of the few boats we serviced that had sank, I never heard of any complaint. If there continues to be water in an engine or transmission, evidence can be found usually at the top with a white-yellowish froth collecting, such as the oil-fill cap, atop the valve cover, or the dip-stick, oil and t fluid...Transmission dip sticks (our cars do not have any longer)...and I'm not sure how to confirm tranny for lingering moisture..but if you suspect lingering moisture still resides in the tranny...change the fluid again!

[MarcoZandrini]

Amen, brother!

[flyfishvt]

First it's my understanding that these trannies can't be connected to a flush machine because they aren't designed that way. Please correct me if I'm wrong because I want to flush out all the old fluid of this 330 I just picked up.

Second. My first car was a 1970 Cougar. Auto tranny. They weren't electronic trannies back then but I don't think that affects the story. The car was stolen and driven into a lake up to the roof. My dad bought it for me. The company that pulled it out of the lake immediately changed the oil and drained the gas tank before the engine was started. That tranny held 12 quarts. We swapped it 2 times before trying to drive the car. I drove that car through 4 winters of -30F and 60,000 miles. I gave the car to some kid who fixed the rust and drove it 10,000 more miles.

Moral of the story is getting rid of the water as quickly as possible is imperative.

[Leothelion092]

First it's my understanding that these trannies can't be connected to a flush machine because they aren't designed that way. Please correct me if I'm wrong because I want to flush out all the old fluid of this 330 I just picked up.

Second. My first car was a 1970 Cougar. Auto tranny. They weren't electronic trannies back then but I don't think that affects the story. The car was stolen and driven into a lake up to the roof. My dad bought it for me. The company that pulled it out of the lake immediately changed the oil and drained the gas tank before the engine was started. That tranny held 12 quarts. We swapped it 2 times before trying to drive the car. I drove that car through 4 winters of -30F and 60,000 miles. I gave the car to some kid who fixed the rust and drove it 10,000 more miles.

Moral of the story is getting rid of the water as quickly as possible is imperative.

It's been sitting for almost two weeks because of parts being sent in the mail :0 I'm actually planning on rehauling the entire cooling system now that I have the oil cooler in hand.. but I have to wait for FCP Euro to send the parts.

[Eaglesail]

Two weeks is too long! I understand your issue, but you need to act now....seriously!... I hope you have disconnected your battery in the interim. Pockets of water, be it soft or hard, will define a galvanic order more rapidly. (for example) Bearing journals on crankshafts also suffer galvanic deterioration over time with old and used motor oil left in the crank-case....but that takes years...WATER takes only days! Transmissions are highly susceptible too....you do not believe me? ask any salvor.

[Leothelion092]

.................................................. Hmmmm...I personally would never-ever buy anything unless possibly properly 'pickled' and usually only within a 3 to 5 day period. One week is generally payed only as metal value.

Galvanic corrosion begins immediately, ie: dissimilar metallic degradation. Salvage buyers almost never buy after two days upon incident. Submerged engines, transmissions, have a very-very short shelf life. And yes, they can be saved, but only within a 24 hour period..and better if the battery had been disconnected.... the shorter the period, the more attractive for the salvage buyer.

wow so I need to get this done ASAP then.. i honestly don't think that a week or two of coolant in the transmission could ruin it.. I had done a fresh fluid drain and fill about 7k miles before so the fluid was also mainly fresh and clean so I assume it had protection from the fresh transmission fluid. It might even be why it didn't fail as soon as he coolant was introduced because the fresher fluid protected it from any kind of damage.

[Eaglesail]

Do you know exactly how much water...or are you guessing?

Any water amount is detrimental.

[Leothelion092]

Do you know exactly how much water...or are you guessing?

Any water amount is detrimental.

I don't know how much is in the transmission but I do know that the coolant expansion itself had a lot of milky coolant and it did look fresh and pink

[TonyAngel]

From what I'm gathering, the car has been sitting there since the discovery of the "incident," with nothing having been done. What I would have done would have been to immediately drop the pan to see what the situation is. As far as I can tell, this still hasn't been done. At this point, I would't be surprised if more damage was done due to just sitting than the leak itself.

Leo, you really need to start acting on this if you are going to salvage anything, if it's that bad.

[Leothelion092]

From what I'm gathering, the car has been sitting there since the discovery of the "incident," with nothing having been done. What I would have done would have been to immediately drop the pan to see what the situation is. As far as I can tell, this still hasn't been done. At this point, I would't be surprised if more damage was done due to just sitting than the leak itself.

Leo, you really need to start acting on this if you are going to salvage anything, if it's that bad.

I really just haven't had the time, had I known before I ordered the parts with standard free shipping that the longer it sits the worse it gets I probably would've overnighted it. I didn't mention that i work 60 hours a week with the past two weeks getting called in on my day off :/ I guess I'm gonna have to take a sick day off or something. I really hope the transmission hasn't gotten any corrosion. Would it be good to use a transmission cleaner/ protection additive during drain and fill procedure?

[TonyAngel]

I don't know what to tell you. Just saying what I thought needs/needed to be done. I know what it's like to have a tight schedule and having to set your priorities. Still, the transmission and the water in it don't care about your schedule. Either you can get it done, or you can't. If you can't, and the water has caused damage requiring extensive repair; I'd most likely just pull the whole transmission and look for a used one. This is, of course, assuming that there is water in the transmission. All of this back and forth might be for nothing. Since you haven't checked, we don't know.

[MIKYZZ4]

Jesus man, just fill it with trans fluid while you're waiting for the parts!
It's the air combined with the moisture that causes condensation,
leading to RUST! FILL the trans with the least expensive fluid of the correct grade!