Rear Brake advice

[virafp]

My rear brake warning came on. Thinking of going to Power Slot slotted rotors. Any reason not to do this? Also, do you all recommend OEM pads or is there something better?

Thanks

[Stück]

Stick with OE BMW composite rotors and OE BMW pads.

[White94RX]

How many miles on the car? If you're still on the first set of pads, you won't even need to change the rotors. Slap on a new set of OEM BMW pads and have a nice day.

[virafp]

First rear brake job, and rotors look good, so I think I will do that.
Thanks

[virafp]

First rear brake job, and rotors look good, so I think I will do that.
Thanks

Rotors are in perfect shape, so my tech just dropped in a set of OEM pads and its as good as new!

[White94RX]

[dewana421]

No Do Not replace rotors...waste of money and time...
For brake pads i will highly recommend getting Akebono...they are German made and are ceramic rotors...will last you for a very long time and also no brake dust...
i have been personally using Akebono brake pads for years and no issues plus LONG LIFE and better performance.
i put those on my rear 2012 535i and they have been awsome!!!!

you can order them from amazon, ebay or Rockauto...i usually buy mine from them..you can use their website to get the part model you need.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/bmw

[Stück]

Rotors are always stamped with a nominal and minimum thickness. If the rotor is at or near minimum thickness it should be replaced. By near I mean close enough one can logically deduce the rotor will be considerably under spec by the next time the pads have been spent. On a F10 535i the rear rotor begins life at 330x20mm. The minimum allowable thickness is 18.4mm. Are you measuring the thickness of the rotor? Is your installing technician? Or are we just doing a pad slap and letting it be the next guys problem?


Fun fact, 90-95% of brake dust is from the brake rotors, NOT the pads. The remaining 5-10% is comprised of pad materials.

I cannot talk poorly enough about Akebono pads. Initial cold pedal feel is rubbish, ultimate braking torque is reduced, and bite in general is poor (all as compared to OE BMW compound) There is a reason why BMW uses the pad compounds they do.

Akebonos are made with a compound that sucks at everything a brake pad should do, for all the losses involved you save a little dust because the compound doesn't bite the disc worth a damn. I don't mind washing my wheels twice a month to avoid peeling my front end out of a pickup truck.

I don't even have to leave a parking lot to know a customers car has some aftermarket pads on it instead of OE BMW.

[dewana421]

Ahhh I did not know that. Thanks for sharing. I'll probably have to redo my rear brakes as I recently did them not too long ago.
I used to have a Mercedes E class before my BMW and in one of those forms someone suggested Akebone and ever since then I have been using them mainly because I noticed less brake dust. Maybe I should stop.
About the rotors I never measured mine. I was told not to worry about rotors unless the car shakes during braking.
I'm not a pro at all this and just do my stuff on my own with info I learn from others. Amazing how wrong others could be :/
Thanks for sharing the info!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[virafp]

Its interesting, I have had mixed results with Akebono. On the F10, I have kept the brakes only OEM, as I agree with the findings of Stuck completely. On the flip side, I have a Toyota Landcruiser, and the standard OEM TOY pads are garbage. The Akebono's seem way better on the truck, both in feel and stopping power. I think it depends on the quality of OEM by brand.

[jclausen]

If you want the best brake parts use real BMW parts, they feel great, no squeaking, warping.