I've been reading several DIYs on this task. I'm at the point of dropping the front subframe. I did not lower the strut mounts nor mess with brake parts. Do I need to unbolt the lines that go to the reservoir and cooler? I think these are 19 and 22mm banjo bolts I believe (though I need to check).
I think these two lines are keeping the rack from dropping further. I did remove the two 16mm bolts holding the rack to the subframe, however. 6 subframe bolts are out, along with the steering coupler bolt, PS pump is out of the way, fan is off, dipstick is out, 10mm bolt holding the trans oil cooler lines are out...
I have a bentley, but it doesn't go into such detail. Thanks!
1. Jack up car as high as you can. Top jack stand setting.
2. Unbolt the power steering pump.
Leave the steering rack alone.
3. Remove oil dipstick tube.
4. Remove front wheels, brake calipers, and disconnect speed sensor plugs.
5. Install engine support
6. Unbolt steering linkage - Lock steering wheel before removing bolt.
7. Unbolt the motor mounts.
8. Unbolt / remove sway bar.
My previous post:
Last edited by Jason5driver; 06-23-2017 at 12:54 PM.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Thanks Jason I did review those 2 threads and the video. I feel like I need to pull the rack down a little to create space and that would put stress on those two lines... leave them alone and I can pull down on the rack without issue? I'm very close to dropping the subframe further, but I don't want to damage anything... Thanks again.
By leaving the rack alone there's enough clearance to remove the pan? Sorry for all the questions! e39 noob...
Last edited by scooper; 06-22-2017 at 10:46 PM.
ok thanks!
Need to unbolt the sway bar from the subframe also, the pan is removed to the rear of the car.
OP: What year is your 528i? Mine's a 1998 and I'll have to do this sometime between now and summer 2018 when I give the car to my daughter. I don't think that there should be a difference from the newer models, but you never know with BMW (just look at the movement in the Fuel Pressure Regulator from 1998 - 2000).
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
thanks guys...I've unbolted the sway endlinks but not the bar from the subframe yet. Was wondering which way to remove the pan. Thanks for confirming my thinking...
4/97 build (1997 model year) with 99k. I'll take some pics too.
I have to replace the oil filter housing gasket next. Has anyone replaced the selector lever seal on the driver's side of the auto trans (GM)? That area is also leaking.
Last edited by scooper; 06-23-2017 at 09:45 AM.
Before you go too far, replace that oil filter housing seal. I thought for years I had a leaking pan gasket and it turned out the whole time it was just the oil filter housing. I even tried to narrow it down by pressure washing and looking for leaks. OFH is a common and preventable leak, they just used crappy gasket material. I ran a thin bead of silicone outside the O ring to prevent it from failing again.
98 328is
02 525ita
80 528i
81 528ia
and decades of owning and driving BMWs
I'm ready to drop the subframe again tmrw but I will do the ofh gasket afterwards. Thanks for chiming in. Btw I also use a bead of Rtv outside the gasket on e36s and that seems to work better for longer vs just the gasket.
Last edited by scooper; 06-23-2017 at 07:10 PM.
I highly recommend you have a BMW tech replace the shaft seal, because you can damage the inside of the transmission when pulling out the bad seal.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
It could also be the vanos line or even your ccv dumping oil on the side of the block.
Even if you have fresh valve cover gaskets, the nylon that they make the valve cover out of starts deteriorating. Cracks or holes in the valve cover can be hard to spot and can also make you block and pan messy. It's worth checking all these common issues
Yeah I may take it to a trans specialist for seal replacement. It's a Gm unit anyways. I checked the valve cover area for leaks. I believe the gasket has been replaced before.
What is the torque spec for the 4 bolts that connect the front sway bar to the subframe? 16 ft/lbs? Getting to a few of those oil pan bolts were a pain...
Scooper .....
Did you read my "Oil pan gasket replacement for Dummies - 2002 530i" ?
You'll wish you had.
Yes I did read that DIY. Thank you for sharing the info! I've already got the pan back on. Just looking for confirmation of torque spec for the sway bracket to subframe. Thanks!
I linked it in post #2.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mies-2002-530i
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Finally finished both jobs...Thank you for all the help! I also replaced the fuel filter, diff fluid, and auto trans filter. Unfortunately the bigger auto housing pan is weeping already. I know people are wary of putting rtv on both surfaces, but I may put a little in there later. I will get that selector rod shaft seal done too.
What's the ideal square wheel/tire size for an m52/m54 e39s? 17x8.5 235/45/17? Other choices I'll also research are 17x9, 18x8.5, and 18x9. I know as I increase wheel size and width the wheels will be heavier. I'm thinking of getting some hub adapters to run the 72.56mm size which is more ubiquitous. The e39 is a solid platform, but I still love the e36s even if they are toy sized by comparison.
Also, is the only choice for a LSD the one from the e39 m5? I think I read that somewhere.. I can also check out custom LSDs.
The selector rod shaft seal isn't that hard to replace honestly speaking. Granted I haven't worked on GM transmission but on ZF it was pretty easy.
With an m54 i6 in there I wouldn't go wider than 8 inches all around. Unless maybe you're planning some turbo action
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