Still having battery troubles, replaced the top battery with the one out of my 740il. Now it will not start with that one in, I'm running just on the bottom battery right now. Im hoping it's just a charge issue, it's been sitting in the car for a month or two now without being started, so I have it on the 20a charger at work (my home charger is a wimpy 2a), so hopefully that gets it charged enough where I can start up with both batteries installed
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Is there a DIY on doing the distributor seals?
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Loads of used basket weave wheels around $200/set. Cheaper than buying a new set of tires, and when the tires are spent, I can scrap the wheels, or sell them for $100 or so
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I have a set of good wheels and tires, but the wheels need to be refinished before I mount tires. I need something temporarily that I can turn around and sell when I'm done. The only tires I have now that fit the e38 right now are flat spotted, and rather than buy brand new tires for a set of 16s that I'm not gonna put that many miles on, I'd rather get some for cheap that aren't flat spotted, and spend that money on getting the rest of the car in better shape.
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You have few nice sets for sale in your local cl
$600 with looks to be nice tires,
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/wto/6179981640.html
$450 for the set of looks to be very clean wheels with tires you can use for a season
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/wto/6193294537.html
if this would pop in Denver they would be in my garage already !
factory M5/6 fully forged wheels with nearly new Michelins? Oh boy
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/wto/6196299103.html
Instagram.com/nordmanmg
Your current situation is not your final destination
Might spring for that top set, I missed that one. I'll throw a couple sets of wheels I don't need or that don't fit up for sale, and see where we go from there
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Okay, attempting to figure out the squeal now.
First off, my year old, off brand battery doesn't seem to be doing a good job of holding a charge, so I put my several year old genuine BMW battery in, right now its on real low charge, so that seems to be the reasons for my low voltages.
There is an incredibly loud squealing/chirping sound coming from the front of the car. Originally, it seemed too correlate for the most part with engine temp, going away when fully warmed up. Now with the lower charge battery, it would not go away for more than a short time, even with the car fully warmed up. I had voltage up on the dash, and I noticed, whenever the voltage when under 13v, the car started squeaking, above 13.5v, the car did not squeak.
I realize correlation does not equal causation, but should I be thinking alternator? I should mention, this is with HVAC entirely off, so no AC kicking in, I can't come up with anything else that would affect both the serpentine belt and voltage, but if anyone has ideas, it would be a great help.
sounds like serpentine belt from alternator load. Check all the pulleys and belt for dirt/grime packed in the grooves, condition of the pulleys themselves.
If the belt looks questionable replace it.
Could also be a lazy or weak or seized belt tensioner that cannot re-tension the belt right after startup.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 07-04-2017 at 05:27 PM.
Okay, cool. I will probably just buy both belts and tensioners, then I won't have to worry about it, I don't want to have to pull the whole front end apart more than once
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Might want to think about the alternator too while your in there. A healthy one shouldn't be putting out anything below about 13.5, even under full load.
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Maybe sometimes, before you got the car, the alternator been replaced with a V8 one?
You have to measure alternators pulley, V8 have larger pulley, V12 have smaller one due to lower idle rpm range
if so, it will not gonna charge or give enough power to keep battery alive
Instagram.com/nordmanmg
Your current situation is not your final destination
Both pulleys work, in practice it doesn't really make a difference.
Driver side hood latch isn't opening :/
This car really isn't playing nice with me
Anyway, I ordered a used alternator, I'm guessing that was the cause of my problems, considering my alternator belt shredded, and the weird voltage crap. If the one on the car currently is just a bearing issue, I'll put in new bearings and keep it as a spare. Anyway, with both belts and tensioners, as well as an alternator in the mail, I'd like to think all my issues will be solved.
Since the car is out of commission for a few days, I'll start getting rear end parts pulled off of my 740il to go in this car, I'll get the rear coilovers in, sls deleted, and with any luck, I'll be good for a little while.
I should note that I'm getting a P0740 code, torque converter lock up something or other, which is fortunately the only code the car is throwing. Since I don't drive highway that much anymore, I'm not going to worry about it for a while. It hasn't affected anything that I can feel with the car.
Also, if anyone in the southern Wisconsin/northern Illinois area wants to do a facelift conversion on an orient blue e38, hit me up. I like the pre facelift front end better personally
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El Cid 1999 ILDUDMD Tune/DINAN CAI/19 in Style 95 Rims/Bilstein's Shocks/Eibach Lowering Springs/OEM Folding Mirrors/Custom Cupholder/Custom Wood Sunshade/Sport Steering Wheel/Euro Center Console/Leather Shifter/Rearview Camera /Luke Custom 10 in Sub Box/Cross Drilled Rotors/Rear view Camera/BMW OEM Monitors/BMW E38 Picnic Tables/Vanity Headrests/OEM Roof Rack/Strut Bar/Dinan MAF and Dinan Throttle Body and Dinan tunning /BM53 Radio upgrade /Custom Innovadrive NXG39 modify and Alpine ILX-W650 touch screen radio.
2.81 rear in 750il, 2.93 in 740il, right?
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Here is my first interior mod for the car. This is a piece of e39 trim that I had lying around, so before I destroy my e38 trim, I would test it out. Boy is that finish tough, it took me many coats of aircraft stripper to get that far, I might have to try out a few more strippers just to keep my sanity. There is a little bit of the finish left on, but some stripper on that should get rid of it easy, and then I will do one more coat all over in order to pull as much of the original color out as possible. I also need to figure out a finish to go over, I would like to do a one part, since doing many coats of a 2 part would be a huge pita. I'm planning on spar urethane, and maybe baking it for a few hours to see if i can get it reasonably hard.
IMG_20170708_192619 by Colton Hatcher, on Flickr
IMG_20170708_192615 by Colton Hatcher, on Flickr
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I should note as well, the cracks that were in the original finish seem to go all the way through the wood, so there will be a couple lines coming through when it's finished, however, since it will be black, I don't think it'll be noticeable to be worth finding a full set of uncracked trim to strip and refinish. I am also very happy that the stripper isn't pulling whatever glue or epoxy is used to hold the veneer to the backing.
Seems as though my cable has either come unhooked from the latch itself, I can't get it to open by the usual methods. Next step, I'm going to try to break the hood latch with a crowbar or something, I just really hope I don't have to cut open the hood.
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