Trying to remove the rear brake rotors but they are stuck and won't spin. I released the parking brake inside the car. When I pull up the brake there is some tension just like there was before I stopped driving the car a few years ago.
I sprayed the rotors with liquid wrench earlier today but didn't help. Tapped the rotor hat with a rubber mallet and a hammer + block of wood. I've read that the ebrake could have fused to the inside of the rotor hat.
How can I get this off!?
Here's a video of it
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
if you are replacing the rotors, i would take a hammer and hit it from the backside where you took off the calipers. hit hard, not tapping it like a little girl in your video hahahaah
Last edited by brokeazz; 06-21-2017 at 10:27 PM.
Good grief man, get a bigger hammer and hit the disc. They are rotors, not the peg and hammer set you used as a toddler. Smack the edge of the disc, hard! Tickling the hub isn't going to do anything. You can do this from the side. You do not have to be under the car hitting inside out.
Use a LARGE soft mallet if you're trying to save the disc.
Last edited by Braymond141; 06-21-2017 at 11:30 PM.
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
Can't you pop the wheel on and pull the car a slight bit to free them up? Better yet, if it runs, just move it forward to free them?! BFH works too..extreme cases, air chisel. Beating on it will prob kill the bearing. A few years is a long time.
Up here in Canada I've had to hit rotors so hard they come off in pieces, wheels bearings were fine. Get a much larger hammer and go to town.
Yep, similar to when the rotors are stuck to the hubs, a large hammer is your friend.
Are you trying to get the rotors off or get the hub to spin? If I were you I'd first take the rotors off and then open up the parking brake drum thing to see what the problem is. Obviously make sure to remove the set screw.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Like everyone else has said, use a hammer. I like to use a deadblow on mine. Transfers more energy (I think) and the plastic helps to keep from damaging the rotor.
I know it's a broken record at this point, but I too like to use a dead blow hammer. You can get them at harbor freight for fairly cheap. Make sure your car is stable with whatever jack/jackstands you are using, and smack the hell out of it from behind.
I probably can but would have to put the calipers back together, which I will do if the hammer doesn't work
Just trying to get the rotors off to put new rotors and pads on + bleed the brakes
I used a dead blow last night but its kinda janky and was starting to deteriorate.
I will use a wood block and a small, 3lb sledge hammer that I have.
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
I think I tried a dead blow when I had this issue, and quickly switched to a normal steel hammer. Just smack the edge of the rotor, hard, at a bit of an angle and it should eventually break free. You're replacing them so you're not gonna break anything unless you manage to miss the rotor.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
The key is loosening the auto adjuster for the parking brake inside the rotor. The cables inside the car have very little to do with the pads hitting the inevitable groove in the rotor.
No matter where you go, there you are...
It would be easy to loosen the shoes first, if they are gripping/frozen to the inside of the hat.
I had Z3 coupe rear rotors stuck to the hub with its massive rear rotor hats. Nothing worked except going from under the rear of the car with a 2x6 length of wood and a small sledge, hitting the wood block into the back side of the rotor outwards. Then spin the hub, hit in another spot, etc. It will work with some patience.
Last edited by adamnur; 06-23-2017 at 06:06 PM.
It's usually just stuck on a lip in the hub. You have to loosen the auto adjust thing. Yes you can beat the crap out of it, but it's easy to wind the thing in and then take off the rotor. Not to mention you damaging a bearing, or ball joint or bushing.
just saying...
No matter where you go, there you are...
I put a long screw driver in the side of the rotor to see how the hub would move, it doesn't move freely, I can hear something while I turn it and it takes some light force to turn. Sounds like rubbing and it's like that on both sides
Tried hitting with a small sledge and nothing. Will try to loosen the brake if I can locate it
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
I have adjusted the parking brake downward, towards the hub, using the adjustment wheel on the driver side
The hub rotates easier now but still is making a rubbing sound. Is this how freely a hub normally spins?
(I feel like I've beaten the shit out of this rotor with a mini sledge)
Last edited by persiandude; 06-24-2017 at 06:14 PM.
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
Try hitting it with your purse...
Kidding! You gotta really hit them HARD sometimes. Plan on not being able to reuse them even though I'm sure they'll be fine.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
Your hitting it at the hub,WRONG!
Hit it at the outer edge of the rotor FACE!
[SIZE="1"]1997 M3/4/5 18x8.5 Hartge Classics, F1 Stage 2 Clutch Kit
:one This Year :: Koni inserts, HR Sport, Rogue RSM, Ball Joints, Powerflex LCAB, Adjustable Sway Links (DIY), Headliner, MM Underpanel, 3 spoke wheel swap, BavSound Speakers, Bluetooth radio adapter
I very highly doubt you can damage a bearing or otherwise from a well-placed jab to the back of a rotor's edge with a mini-sledge impact through a block of wood. It is very commonly done without causing damage to anything. It's not always the hand brake either.
Glad you got it, OP.
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Last edited by adamnur; 06-27-2017 at 03:50 PM.
If you say so.. I wouldn't do it...
No matter where you go, there you are...
I use a plastic dead blow, not such a "harsh" NVH hit and knocks it right off. Also doesn't damage/dent the rotor if you need to re-use it.
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