Hey guys/girls, I am quite new here, I signed up as I'm looking at buying my first BMW, a 1998 328i sedan, with 150,000 miles on the body, and 60,000 on a built and tuned motor.
Just here to ask a couple questions, such as things to look out for when buying an E36 in particular, and signs that the car hasn't been taken care of as such.
Also, call me a n00b for asking, but what are the differences APART from the motor and trim/badges between an M3 and your average 328i?
When should the timing belt/water pump/major service be done on these bad boys anyway? I could tell you heaps about Jap Spec GT-Fours, but I'm not too cluey about Bimmers hahaha
Thanks in advance!
-Justin
Last edited by adversus.Falcon; 06-21-2017 at 05:53 AM.
Hi Justin, here some general info on the E36
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...hread-For-FAQs
E36 Common Problems and DIY Fixes https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/f...-and-DIY-Fixes
E36 wiki, showing you details and also info for the M3 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_(E36)
I will move this thread to the E36 forum, some others will comment too what to check
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Timing belt is easy, there is none, it's a chain, so no worries there.
In a nutshell, the cooling systems are 100K consumable items, emphatically including the radiator. I do water pumps when I do the radiator unless it's been done recently. Engines will last almost forever if taken care of. Lots of stuff different on M3s from 50HP more than a stock 328 to some suspension differences and more. Auto trannys are ok, but not great, but fluid changes are definitely good for them in spite of BMWs claims. 328s actually got a number of heavier duty parts off or similar to M3s like the larger clutch, and are pretty quick, but obviously not an M3. There's miles more but it's a start.
98 328is
02 525ita
80 528i
81 528ia
and decades of owning and driving BMWs
When buying an E36 a engine compression test should be performed. Be sure to turn off the fuel supply and leave the butterfly open. When an E36 overheats the head can crack and warp, so don't ever let it get anywhere close to overheating.
Thanks for all your help guys, I'll keep this all in mind!
As I am definitely new to the BMW game, please feel free to PM me or reply here with any other tips/helpful hints I might need to get on the right track!
-Falcon
The cooling system was already mentioned, so definitely look that over thoroughly. Another common issue is the rear shock towers, a simple fix with an updated mount or reinforcement plate.
The more paperwork provided with the car the better, service receipts and such are worth their weight in gold when it comes to making a purchase decision. I always recommend having an independent BMW specialty shop or dealership look over the car for a fee. A Pre-Purchase Inspection is very helpful and can potentially save you a lot of headaches.
If there was any recent cooling system work done I would stay away. They were replacing parts because of overheating and figured out it was a bigger problem and are ditching it. Not always the case but most likely.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
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