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Thread: Hard top Lock (left)

  1. #1
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    Hard top Lock (left)

    This is a pic of the hardtop lock (driver side) showing the defroster connection/plug. Mine has been damaged (see pic) Is there a way to repair mine? I do not understand how it's connected to the locking pin and why? Any help?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by MORRIE; 06-20-2017 at 09:41 PM.

  2. #2
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    There is a collar on the mounting hardware that the wires attach to. the pin sits in the collar and sends the power to the defroster.
    2001 Z3 3.0i -Oxford Green/Sandbeige
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  3. #3
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    I wonder if the wires were attached (using JB weld) to the pin, would it send power to the defroster?? I hate to spend over $300 for a new hardtop lock.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MORRIE View Post
    I wonder if the wires were attached (using JB weld) to the pin, would it send power to the defroster?? I hate to spend over $300 for a new hardtop lock.
    The wires need to be in contact with the round base on the mounting bracket that is attached to the car rather than the pin of bracket attached to the hardtop.
    Wayne

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  5. #5
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    Did you find all of the bits and pieces?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MORRIE View Post
    I wonder if the wires were attached (using JB weld) to the pin, would it send power to the defroster?? I hate to spend over $300 for a new hardtop lock.
    Your best bet might be to make a new separate connector for the defroster. This way you would have to connect the defroster wire manually when you attache the hardtop, but at least it would work and you wouldn't risk shorting anything out.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    Did you find all of the bits and pieces?
    I found 2 small pieces but I think there are more missing.

  8. #8
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    Here are some photos that might help decide if this can be repaired or somehow connected so that it works properly. All suggestions & help is appreciated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by MORRIE; 06-21-2017 at 08:21 PM.

  9. #9
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    In the first picture you see a plug that connects to the defroster in the hardtop. The part that it connects to can be directly connected to the cable coming from the car. I am using it that way. You issue is that the part that is broken is still needed to put pressure against the car so that the hardtop doesn't rub against the car.


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  10. #10
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    That's a tough one--it doesn't look like there are enough bits left to piece it back together--humpty dumpty and all that. Someone on here has to have one on a damaged hard top. Try running a wanted ad in our classifieds with pictures. Otherwise you might be able to make one, but it would take some bit of creativity to say the least. I mean it's essentially just a circular floating contact with a positive, a ground, and a locking key tab, and you have the contacts and a pic of how it should look--you just need the circular plastic portion--you might be able to make one out of a bottle cap:


  11. #11
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    That might work, Ralph. Think I will try the bone yard before trying to use my creativity. Thanks for the suggestion.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MORRIE View Post
    That might work, Ralph. Think I will try the bone yard before trying to use my creativity. Thanks for the suggestion.
    Good news! Filed claim with my insurance carrier. Claim approved so I will be taking my car to a shop Monday. If they can install the new part that's great. Less work for me. Problem resolved.
    Last edited by MORRIE; 06-23-2017 at 07:10 PM.

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    If they replace your HT latch, I would ask for the old one back. It's one of those parts that will be hard to find in a few years.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MORRIE View Post
    Good news! Filed claim with my insurance carrier. Claim approved so I will be taking my car to a shop Monday. If they can install the new part that's great. Less work for me. Problem resolved.
    Hopefully a shop familiar with Z3's and that has dissembled the oddments box/roll bar surround before. That's a complex bit of work with a lot to go wrong if you don't take your time and care in the doing of it. A shop mechanic who isn't familiar with the job might not believe the degree of disassembly required to get to the point of removal of the tower, and attempt to take shortcuts that don't pan out and lead to damage of adjacent parts, and/or mix up the fasteners that are all different, and have to back in the same holes they came out of.

  15. #15
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    If they elect to do the job, I will definitely ask for the old part. Yes, Ralph...I was thinking the same thing. If they don't have experience doing this, then I will probably do it myself. After watching your thread on how to dissemble the oddments box/roll bar I think I can do this....just have to take my time.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MORRIE View Post
    If they elect to do the job, I will definitely ask for the old part. Yes, Ralph...I was thinking the same thing. If they don't have experience doing this, then I will probably do it myself. After watching your thread on how to dissemble the oddments box/roll bar I think I can do this....just have to take my time.
    and keep a magnet on hand--but yes you can.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    and keep a magnet on hand--but yes you can.
    Yes, a magnet is my best friend....have 2 of them. Questions: When lifting the rear of the console, how will it affect the front side that is attached to the dash? My M console is nice and tight....hate to disrupt that. Behind the armrest, where the switch is mounted there are 2 screws that need to be removed. Are those 2 screws the only thing that is holding the oddment box?

  18. #18
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    No, there are three in the back as well:







    Last edited by Mr Bingley; 06-25-2017 at 07:49 AM.

  19. #19
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    Once you remove the two screws at the rear of the console, IIRC there are two additional ones under the console tray. Remove those and the console will tip upward in the rear several inches.

  20. #20
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    Thanks guys....Is there a thread with information on how to remove/replace the hardtop lock?
    Last edited by MORRIE; 06-25-2017 at 01:25 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MORRIE View Post
    Thanks guys....Is there a thread with information on how to remove/replace the hardtop lock?
    Not that I'm aware of--you may be the first around here to manage to damage that.

  22. #22
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    From the parts diagram on real oem it looks like you need to remove the headliner and 3 bolts:

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=54_0204

    Quote Originally Posted by MORRIE View Post
    Thanks guys....Is there a thread with information on how to remove/replace the hardtop lock?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    Not that I'm aware of--you may be the first around here to manage to damage that.
    I replaced the right lock on my hardtop without completely removing the headliner, but it was tight. The headliner seemed to be glued in the center, which is what made me decide to leave it in place.
    Wayne

    1998 M Roadster
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  24. #24
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    Looks like I will be putting on hold the project to remove the roll bar trim panels unless I can find a good used ones. The drivers side is on back order from Germany.....so ECS tuning and a couple of other parts stores told me. Regarding the hardtop lock...removing the headliner is something I do not want to do, so I will just live without the rear defroster unless I can find a way to repair the existing one.
    Last edited by MORRIE; 06-29-2017 at 09:05 AM.

  25. #25
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    Here's one on eBay for $99.99 with free shipping:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-BMW-Z3-...RZQa11&vxp=mtr

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