Code is p1188 not p1199 sorry for any confusion
Here is the post I made on bimmerfest with no repkies... hoping someone on here can help me out
Ok so I know this code has been covered a lot but I could use some suggestions on my specific issue. I have a*97328i*automatic, was dealing with catalyst efficiency codes for a long time.... finally changed the rear 02s with no fix and decided to change the fronts... before I got a chance to do the fronts I started overheating,*oil*pan pissed out all my*oil*and I thought the*headgasket*went die to a leak in the front of the*motor... I purchased timing chains tensioners and guides and completegaskets*for the*motor, as well as a new*radiatorthermostat and housing,*heater*core, belts, and hoses (did the*water pump*a year ago) got ready to tear it apart and realised that the*thermostat housing*is what was leaking, decided since I had the parts I'd still change theheadgasket... got the*motor*out and tore it down, cleaned it up, then put it back together... started it up and it ran like ****.... found a few things plugged in wrong and changed a few vacuum lines and got it down to a miss on 5 and 6 (forgot to mention I changed plugs, coils, and injectors) diagnosed it as a bad maf found a cheapo one for $30 online and bought it, car ran a lot better after install (tested it's readings against a new one from work (autozone) andvreadings all matched up so I apparently got it for a steal) was throwing a code for stuck vanos that I diagnosed as a bad*solenoid*replaced and fixed the issue... now I'm down to just the p1188 code, a slightly rough idle, bad mpgs, and some occasional stuttering while driving, low end power seems off so I changed vanos seals (of course i ended up with the vanos rattle after doing seals so i have to go back in there sometime). Since then i have changed gas cap and litterally every vacuum line under the hood, as well as source a good used sap and valve, cvv lines and*intake boot*and put a new oring on my*iat, all of these have improved mileage but not fixed the problems... any help is appreciated, and I will post my*fuel*trims when I get back to work, currently on a delivery... forgot to mention I did change cvv and cleaned the icv
EDIT: freeze frame data is as follows
Calc load 38%
ECT 84c
Stft b1 -14.1%
Ltft b1 -8.6%
Stft b2 -3.1%
Ltft b2 -0.8
Also stored a p1250 which is new
And has e3 as bmw item enhanced code
Live data at idle is as follows
Calc load 17.6%
ECT 97c
Stft b1 3.9%
Ltft b1 -8.6%
Stft b2 7.8%
Ltft b2 -4.7%
While driving is as follows
Calc load 15-40%
Stft b1 -10.2% - 3%
Ltft b1 -7.8%
Stft b2 -5% - 2%
Ltft b2 -0.8%
Hope these numbers help
Forgot to mention I have broken*exhaust*manifold bolt, it is the top front bolt, broke flush with the head and had an extractor break off inside it making it next to impossible to drill out a second time... I've put rtf on it and it seems to be sealed good... no leaks from what I can tell... also the car has 180000 on it
EDIT: forgot to mention I changed*fuel filter*and*fuelpump a year ago and the fpr a few weeks ago (was a pain to get the oring to seat but I think I've got it seated properly)*fuel*pressure is at 49 psi
Checked charcoal canister and found no leaks.... sealed up the valve that's on there with some rtf and a new oring...
Also ran seafoam through the brake booster line and realised the manifold is not leaking but the flange going to the downpipe is... just need to tighten the bolts up a bit, I don't think this is my issue since it's past the o2 sensor
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Last edited by chrishatcher; 06-20-2017 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Wrong code number
Double check compression values.
Will do that as soon as I can... but honestly the way it runs compression should be good... Might try to do that tonight though if I can find a tester.... it acts like a vac leak but have had no luck finding anything... been trying to get it in for a smoke test for weeks now
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So while idling with the ac on at work car started running rough as hell and kicked out p1188 p0300 p0173 p0306 and p0305 same codes that I got rid of by changing the maf before... I did buy a cheapo maf so maybe this is my issue will be doing the compression check tonight and checking gap on my plugs
EDIT: ran fine on the way hom... a little sputtering at first and then it smoothed out and did great... running codes and doing the compression test either tonight or tomorrow hoping for good results on the compression test because I don't know if I can mentally handle having to pull this head again lol at least I wouldn't have to pull the motor again and have found a rebuilt head for around 650 by the time I did valves and everything I'd be close to that anyeay
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Last edited by chrishatcher; 06-20-2017 at 05:50 PM.
Seemed to be that the heat made the cheap maf that I got act up... Will be trying to source a good used or aftermarket one tomorrow... odes never came back after clearing except the p1188 seems to be my constant hell
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Your at max adaption for LTFT's. Your DME is pulling fuel (-8.6% from your chart). Your DME is always looking for stoich 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. If your running at 13:1 the DME is going to start pulling fuel in the short term to achieve the 14.7:1. When the DME is constantly pulling fuel or adding in the short term, it will then add or pull in the long term. Meaning when you start it up, it will resort back to what was needed to achieve 14.7:1
That being said, since your pulling fuel, I would be looking at your fuel pressure regulator, or vacuum line to your regulator.
On your 328, there is a fuel pressure access port right at the end if the rail. Buy a universal fuel pressure testing kit. Its the same as the Ford port. Test at idle, you should be in the ballpark of 44psi. Then disconnect and cap the vacuum line to the FPR and test. You should have 51psi. If your line is filled with oil, or cracked you will see 51 psi at idle with the line connected. This is too much fuel pressure and will cause your DME to pull fuel.
This is your starting point.
Report back.
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I actually changed the for and the vacuum line lol had 49 psi on the rail when I checked last week.... it's got me puzzled honestly I want to say it's a vac leak but have no idea where it could be at this point... also thinking the cheap maf I got just might not be up to snuff... it failing in the heat the other day I guess is a giveaway for that... payday is tomorrow so I'll get a new one ordered and go from there... was seeing decent brands on ebay for $100... hopefully get to the compression rest tomorrow... had to flush my dad's dodge today and have concluded his radiators crap... I'll let y'all know what the compression check tells me
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49 is too high idling... Did you read Butters post? That is very close to 51 PSI which is from a bad FPR or more likely the vacuum line going to it is broken or plugged. Do the easy stuff first, no need for a compression check.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
I already changed the fpr and pulled the vacuum and verified it was good... Might check tonight and make sure it's seated all the way could be that I didn't get it completely seated... bastard was a bitch to get in with the new oring on it... is there any way to test the fpr to verify that it's working properly
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Idling it should be 44 psi, unhook the vacuum line and it should jump up to 51 psi. When you unhook the vacuum line from the FPR it is simulating full throttle (low vacuum in the intake manifold because the throttle is wide open).
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Ok thanks for the info hopefully get to check it this afternoon... going to go ahead and do the compression test too... not too hard and I need to check plug gap anyways
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Well not going to get to the tests till sometime next week... I did end up having the p1188 come back which is expected but I also got the p1250 back... of course the p1188 translates to an e3 code but I'm not getting a bmw specific code on the p1250... I noticed that the gas cap is getting fuel on the seal while running and I think that the vent for the tank might be blocked up, not sure how to get to it to find out so I'll be looking into that this weekend... gas pump will shut off almost every time I fill up unless I put it a little sideways which is an indicator of a bad vent tube... purge valve mount is gone and am curious if it might be bad and causing my issues... Not sure what kind of codes will come up when it goes or how to test
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Just did the fuel pressure test and ran at 45-46psi at idle(kind of in between lol) with the vacuum on the fpr off it gave me 51-52 psi... bout to do the compression test but not finding a good diy on it... any help is appreciated I've never done a compression check before.... got my maf in and installed today as well... will be giving her a test drive in a bit to see if that made any difference... is there any good way to reset the adaptations? Tried connecting the battery cables for almost an hour like suggested on some posts but didn't seem to do the trick
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Compression numbers are as follows
1-185
2-195
3-195
4-195
5-200
6-210
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Just test drive after the maf change to some annoying results... ltft on b1 changed to -0.8 and b2 changed to 11.7 obviously maf was crap and making it run rich which tells me my real issue is a lean condition... vacuum leak maybe... this crap is confusing the hell out of me lol... code switched to a p1189 or e4 which is expected with the new ltft readings
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So I guess it's going to the shop sometime next week... hopefully a smoke test will show me something
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Ran codes today and had p0420 or e9 pop up... kind of annoyed with that especially since I finally got rid of that damn code... thinking I might have to warranty out the o2, if not I might be buying cats soon
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Just smoke tested and fount that my new throttle body gasket is leaking... won't know if that fixes for a few days but will get it swapped out shortly... letting the car cool down and then swapping these o2s... hoping for a good running car soon
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O2s made no difference, throttle body gaskets come in next week hopefully they fix me up but I'm not optimistic... I still have p0420 p1189 and p1250
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