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Thread: Rebuild: Better, Faster, Poorer - Twin Screw Edition

  1. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    I learned it the hard way - still suffering the consequence. I had given the machinist the block, etc. but totally brain farted about the timing cover. It was several thousandths higher than the block. I did some clay impressions and took measurements. Engine was already in the car. Pulled the timing cover and machined it separately. It's better, but it leaks. Someday....
    I wonder...
    Maybe loosening the front cover and the oil pan (not even removing it or the bolts) and then retightening the cover__squeeze some Loctite 518 into the gap at the bottom, followed by tightening up the oil pan. The crankshaft seal shouldn't be too much the worse for wear.

    I'd be more inclined to give that a go as a stop-gap measure than anything else, at least until the you and the engine agree it's time to pull it for some other reason/upgrade.

    Edit: forgot about the dowels... (who needs *stinking dowels*?!?!)

    Oh well
    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 12-24-2017 at 11:27 AM.

  2. #127
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    Yeah we about to tell ya - dowels


  3. #128
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    So I havent updated this thread in a while. So here comes a mass update:

    Ended up carrying the car over to Markert with my tail tucked between my legs. Just told them to get it running and figure out what I had screwed up. Turns out the oil leak was not from the head, but the cam sensor...yea Im an idiot. Good news is we didn't have to pull the head to fix it. They do some other things, fix my AN lines, check my lifters, re torque the head. Had them dyno tune it while it was there and I just got the call on the final numbers....

    428HP

    Still waiting on the TQ numbers but it sounds pretty solid to me at 10lbs of boost. Supposed to send me the graph later via email.

    BIG shout out to Markert Motor Works...now I gotta figure out how to pay them...
    1995 M3...Screwed

  4. #129
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    Woo Hoo! Driving soon!

    There should be some new intake gaskets in (your) town any day now; one of them for you?

  5. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Woo Hoo! Driving soon!

    There should be some new intake gaskets in (your) town any day now; one of them for you?
    Yea, I've got a race at Daytona next weekend so it will be prob close to two weeks before I can go pick her up. No the gaskets aren't for me, just for Sean. Active was nice enough to cut the intake manifold to use the stock gaskets.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  6. #131
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Jab31169 View Post
    So I havent updated this thread in a while. So here comes a mass update:

    Ended up carrying the car over to Markert with my tail tucked between my legs. Just told them to get it running and figure out what I had screwed up. Turns out the oil leak was not from the head, but the cam sensor...yea Im an idiot. Good news is we didn't have to pull the head to fix it. They do some other things, fix my AN lines, check my lifters, re torque the head. Had them dyno tune it while it was there and I just got the call on the final numbers....

    428HP

    Still waiting on the TQ numbers but it sounds pretty solid to me at 10lbs of boost. Supposed to send me the graph later via email.

    BIG shout out to Markert Motor Works...now I gotta figure out how to pay them...
    Good stuff!

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  7. #132
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    Sorry...432hp/344tq


  8. #133
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    So...now on to the not so great par of this story. Get the car back, get the front end put back together and drive it. Runs great for about 20 mins and starts to die on the way back from the gas station. Do some digging when I get home, find a loose hose on the back of the twin screw that's letting unmetered air in. Put a hose clamp on, boom, fires right up, all is well. Well, except for the oil leak that has now developed from the valve cover gasket. No big deal, we will just get a new gasket. Find the harness screws to the firewall missing and loose, so I find some to replace and tighten them up. So later on that night I'm driving back from a buddies house and the car just dies on the interstate. When I said it died, it just flat died. Get pulled over, wont start back. Call a tow truck, they are 45 mins out. So I get to looking and the negative battery cable is loose. Tighten back up, still wont fire. Sit for another 20 mins, motor fires right up. I haul ass home and park it. Call Markert the next day, tell them its coming back.

    So they take it in and after a few days they cant find anything wrong, everything looks great and they drove it without issue. Replaced the valve cover and its leak free. I go pickup the car and I decide I'm going to drive it back. My rep is nice enough to meet me at the shop on a Sunday, the day after his wife had a baby. Poor guy was tired but really showed what customer service looks like. Anyways, pick the car up and get on I-85. 5 miles down the road, car starts to stumble and spit while im just going down the interstate at 65mph. Get it pulled off the exit and into a gas station. Pop the hood and turns out the valve cover is still leaking as well. Call my adviser, he sends a tow truck to pick up my car, and I go home dejected and a bit angry. I message both the owners asking for a call to figure out what is really going on and why we keep having issues. They both message me back that they are looking into it and will get back to me. The next morning I hear back from the shop manager who was very apologetic and whatnot. I stated my issues and the issues with quality control they appear to have. She lets me know they are looking into it and will get back with me once the car is ready.

    The more I get to thinking about it, the more I feel like its probably a crank sensor issue. I do some research and come to find out, the part they used was a Chinese crank sensor that are known for failing out of the box. I call my service adviser, tell them to look into it and sure enough they find out the crank sensor is giving bad data. So they attempt to get the correct OEM sensor but as it turns out, you cant get Euro parts in the US unless you have a euro car with the title and VIN (also of note, my car was converted to ODB-II, hence the reason for the euro crank sensor that's on the front of the motor). The shop owners reached out to some friends in Europe and asked them to buy the parts they needed. Crank sensor comes in, fixes the problem. They go though a few more gaskets before they find one that doesn't leak, which seems odd but its all warranty as this point. Something else I noticed when I had the car was my oil pressure gauge was showing very high oil pressure on the interstate...like pegging out my 80psi gauge. I asked them to check this out as it was a concern since the gauge had never read over 60 since the day I owned the car. I'm told that the pressures look normal during driving.

    So my Service adviser again goes out of his way to make me happy and tells me they are going to deliver the car to me. He's going to drive it over while one of his buddies follows him. Sounds great to me as I had a track day at Barber so I told them just to meet me there. They arrive and we do a test drive. When we get back, oil is puking out the oil fill cap...which is odd...never done it before. He sends a text to his tech asking about that and high oil pressure. He replies that it could be a restricted valve cover breather or rings going out. At this point, I'm glad to see the car but I've got other stuff going on and don't really have time to jack it up and really look at it so I let them take take off so they can get home. I drive it home later and my buddy tells me it was smoking pretty good on the interstate and the oil pressure was still showing 80psi. I park it and walk away for the night. Back it out the next morning and a fairly large puddle of oil is under the car. I get it jacked up and find that the oil pan is soaking in oil and well as the rear main. The oil pan gasket was replaced 2 years ago along with the rear main. I do some digging and find a kinked valve cover vent line. Turns out high crankcase pressure will push oil out of anywhere it can. That may have also been why it was blowing valve cover gaskets out. So while they were trying to do me a solid by bringing the car to me, it also made a good bit of oil puke out of the crank and oil pan gasket. I was also having issues with off throttle idle and the motor wanting to die, but I fixed that by adjusting the throttle cable tension. I call my service adviser and we talk about it. I tell them I'll clean it up and watch for more leaks, they start to take the position of that they didn't touch that line, which is great and all but at the same time the car was in your hands and you're a shop with some of the best techs out there...why am I finding stuff your mechanic didn't?

    Just to pile on, the battery let go on Saturday just out of warranty. So I bought a new one and took her out for a spin, only to find that the rear main still dripping and the rear of the pan is wet after being cleaned and dried. So at this point, I'm kinda just burned out and bummed out.

    This thread is not to bash Markert or say you shouldn't use them, just detailing my experience with them. I know many people who've had a great experience with them and rave about the service. I like Rob and Dave, both seem like great guys. I like Markert, I just don't think I got the best mechanic service they are known for. I also get things go wrong with a non-standard project type car, and its how you(the shop) respond, and to that end they've done well from the customer service side and the tune seems good. It's the end mechanical results that have me down in the dumps with a car that is still not where it should be after the money that has been spent on it. If the new sender arrives and my oil pressure still pegs, It might be time to pull the pan and replace the pump...but it might be a while before I proceed.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  9. #134
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    First, wow…lots of issues with your car. You seem technically proficient, why not just take some time and go through the car with a fine tooth comb. Inspect everything, fix all the little “while you’re in there” things. Replace all of those wear items and always buy OEM. Stay away from Rock Auto like parts....(just a suggestion). A boosted car’s maintenance needs to me meticulous, because the added pressure (see what I did there) puts added stress on all components.

    Second, I would not say this was a bash thread…that may have implicitly been your intent, but after reading it, I see a shop that has bent over backwards in trying to resolve the many issues. They sound like a good group of people.

    Get that baby fixed and on the road....we are an endangered species, the turbo guys are circling our bodies.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  10. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanks95 View Post
    First, wow…lots of issues with your car. You seem technically proficient, why not just take some time and go through the car with a fine tooth comb. Inspect everything, fix all the little “while you’re in there” things. Replace all of those wear items and always buy OEM. Stay away from Rock Auto like parts....(just a suggestion). A boosted car’s maintenance needs to me meticulous, because the added pressure (see what I did there) puts added stress on all components.

    Second, I would not say this was a bash thread…that may have implicitly been your intent, but after reading it, I see a shop that has bent over backwards in trying to resolve the many issues. They sound like a good group of people.

    Get that baby fixed and on the road....we are an endangered species, the turbo guys are circling our bodies.
    Tanks, I have never personally shopped at Rock Auto or even put a part near my car that was at least OEM or better quality. When the motor was out, every single part was replaced that could be replaced outside of pulling the bottom end apart. I have a parts list a mile long of everything I replaced while the motor was out. So yes, I've been though the car with a fine tooth comb. The one substandard part that failed was put on the car during the ODB-II conversion by Markert. That part was purchased most likely because it was the only one they could get a hold of stateside since the OEM part required you to purchase it from Europe.

    Again, as I stated in my thread it is not my intention to bash them as much as it is just a part of the cars story now. If I wanted to bash them, i would of left out all of the bending over my service adviser did to accommodate my needs and made a thread of its own and let them have it. Take from the story what you will. Its just my experience, your mileage may vary. My story reeks of frustration with the car and the issues that we've had...it is what it is and it makes me want to bang my head against the wall.

    My frustration lies in the fact that you think you did everything right only to have it not be. When you just spent a boatload of money to get a car running right and its not, its like a punch to the nuts...very depressing. Its coming up on a year since I parked it and started this process. I've got so much other stuff going on that I really don't have time to attempt to fix the new issues. I've got family stuff, work stuff, race stuff...this car has moved way down the list. Was one of the reasons I farmed out the work was the hope to get it back and run it without issue. Hell before the head gasket let go, it was one of the most reliable cars I had ever driven. Now it gives me this uneasy feeling every time I drive it.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jab31169 View Post
    Tanks, I have never personally shopped at Rock Auto or even put a part near my car that was at least OEM or better quality. When the motor was out, every single part was replaced that could be replaced outside of pulling the bottom end apart. I have a parts list a mile long of everything I replaced while the motor was out. So yes, I've been though the car with a fine tooth comb. The one substandard part that failed was put on the car during the ODB-II conversion by Markert. That part was purchased most likely because it was the only one they could get a hold of stateside since the OEM part required you to purchase it from Europe.

    Again, as I stated in my thread it is not my intention to bash them as much as it is just a part of the cars story now. If I wanted to bash them, i would of left out all of the bending over my service adviser did to accommodate my needs and made a thread of its own and let them have it. Take from the story what you will. Its just my experience, your mileage may vary. My story reeks of frustration with the car and the issues that we've had...it is what it is and it makes me want to bang my head against the wall.

    My frustration lies in the fact that you think you did everything right only to have it not be. When you just spent a boatload of money to get a car running right and its not, its like a punch to the nuts...very depressing. Its coming up on a year since I parked it and started this process. I've got so much other stuff going on that I really don't have time to attempt to fix the new issues. I've got family stuff, work stuff, race stuff...this car has moved way down the list. Was one of the reasons I farmed out the work was the hope to get it back and run it without issue. Hell before the head gasket let go, it was one of the most reliable cars I had ever driven. Now it gives me this uneasy feeling every time I drive it.
    ...understood

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  12. #137
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    The only thing I can think of to generate such high oil pressure is the built in pressure regulating valve sticking (or having been "shimmed")...




    Now that I think about it, there's also a pressure regulatiing valve on the underside of the cylinder head, but I'm certain that the pressure sensor is upstream of it. I am always paranoid about leaving this PRV out during assembly!









    Like Tanks, I did not get the impression that you were ragging on (Markert) either, just sounded like you were venting to people that you knew could understand your frustration.

    I've been on both sides of that scenario, and they both suck, but us real people__you, them and us__will put their heads together to find a solution; I'm sure yours is just around the corner.

  13. #138
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    Looks like you have gone through a lot to get here, so kudos to sticking to it.

    Good to see one of my old kits getting some good treatment and being taken care of too!

    I am taking my own car off the road, as I have a bunch of suspension and other work to do. Your power numbers look quite healthy, so curious as to what the details are of the rest of your setup?

    I see RMS headers, what do you have for rest of the exhaust (do you retain cats)? What size pulley are you running?

    Are the injectors stock, and did the 428 come from the stock kit tune or was it worked on further? Did you alter compression at all?

    Are you only running the Shrick exhaust cam? Can you confirm what cam it is?

    I am thinking to keep my car with the 1.7L compressor (not push up to the 2.0 like JMC did), and focus on making the exhaust less restrictive, and probably adding a big throttle body. I have the AA water injection system on the car, so will maintain that and try to get it dialed in properly as well with some meth.

    Sorry for all of the questions, but will keep tabs on the thread...

    Steve
    Have you been Screwed?

  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by stimpee View Post
    Looks like you have gone through a lot to get here, so kudos to sticking to it.

    Good to see one of my old kits getting some good treatment and being taken care of too!

    I am taking my own car off the road, as I have a bunch of suspension and other work to do. Your power numbers look quite healthy, so curious as to what the details are of the rest of your setup?

    I see RMS headers, what do you have for rest of the exhaust (do you retain cats)? What size pulley are you running?

    Are the injectors stock, and did the 428 come from the stock kit tune or was it worked on further? Did you alter compression at all?

    Are you only running the Shrick exhaust cam? Can you confirm what cam it is?

    I am thinking to keep my car with the 1.7L compressor (not push up to the 2.0 like JMC did), and focus on making the exhaust less restrictive, and probably adding a big throttle body. I have the AA water injection system on the car, so will maintain that and try to get it dialed in properly as well with some meth.

    Sorry for all of the questions, but will keep tabs on the thread...

    Steve
    steve, this is my old car. Not the stock AA kit.
    -M3J0N

  15. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by stimpee View Post
    Looks like you have gone through a lot to get here, so kudos to sticking to it.

    Good to see one of my old kits getting some good treatment and being taken care of too!

    I am taking my own car off the road, as I have a bunch of suspension and other work to do. Your power numbers look quite healthy, so curious as to what the details are of the rest of your setup?

    I see RMS headers, what do you have for rest of the exhaust (do you retain cats)? What size pulley are you running?

    Are the injectors stock, and did the 428 come from the stock kit tune or was it worked on further? Did you alter compression at all?

    Are you only running the Shrick exhaust cam? Can you confirm what cam it is?

    I am thinking to keep my car with the 1.7L compressor (not push up to the 2.0 like JMC did), and focus on making the exhaust less restrictive, and probably adding a big throttle body. I have the AA water injection system on the car, so will maintain that and try to get it dialed in properly as well with some meth.

    Sorry for all of the questions, but will keep tabs on the thread...

    Steve
    I'll run down the list to the best of my ability:

    RMS headers with no cats, custom 3" exhaust with 2 Magnaflow mufflers.

    Its a smaller pulley at 76mm putting out right at 10lbs with the bigger headers and exhaust, was at 10.5lbs before

    Injectors are not stock...Im pretty sure they are 46lb injectors. Compression was not altered other than getting the headwork for the rebuild. The 432HP came from the move to OBDII and header/exhaust work paired with Markert's tune. When I got the car it came with an ODBI tune from TRM and stock headers paired up with the Active midpipe (Starts at 3" and chokes down to 2" in the resonator) and Eisenmann race rear section.

    Only the Shrick exhaust cam, 261A5800 - the 256 exhaust cam.

    The riot racing throttle body is nice, should get you a few more ponies.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    The only thing I can think of to generate such high oil pressure is the built in pressure regulating valve sticking (or having been "shimmed")...

    Now that I think about it, there's also a pressure regulatiing valve on the underside of the cylinder head, but I'm certain that the pressure sensor is upstream of it. I am always paranoid about leaving this PRV out during assembly

    Like Tanks, I did not get the impression that you were ragging on (Markert) either, just sounded like you were venting to people that you knew could understand your frustration.

    I've been on both sides of that scenario, and they both suck, but us real people__you, them and us__will put their heads together to find a solution; I'm sure yours is just around the corner.
    Randy, I thought the valve in the head was an anti-drain back type valve that kept the oil from completely draining out of the head? I'm pretty sure it was there when I got the head back. The oil pump has never been touched other than loctite on the pump nut and a new reinforced oil pickup. If the oil pressure continues to be sky high, then I'd say its a stuck valve. I got a new sender in the other day, going to drive it tonight and *Fingers Crossed* hope I don't see high pressure.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  16. #141
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    This is a good excuse to learn and work on your car while saving a lot of time and headache. Everyone understands you expected 5 star service after taking the car to a shop, but its inevitable to run into problems. It seems like the shop received an A for effort though which makes the situation easier. The problems could've been much worse. Blown oil pan gasket and rear main seal was from inadequate crank case relief and explains rise in pressure. Valve cover gasket and battery is small stuff. I know a lot of people including myself who have lost TONS of money with bad machine work.....

    432whp is impressive for a s/c kit though.

    96 328is turbo
    98 Hellrot M3/4/5

  17. #142
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    Replaced sender and gauge, no change in oil pressure. Seemed like it was better for about 20 mins then my first jaunt over 4k and right back to pegging the gauge.
    1995 M3...Screwed

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    What oil are you running. And have you tried draining it and refilling with new filter? Sounds like a restriction still exists

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