Well, good news and bad news - the good news is I got the rear subframe assembly out with only minor injuries (to myself, after hitting my head on a cinderblock). The bad news is it was a lot bigger pain than I was expecting!
I thought it would be relatively easy to lower the thing out of the car by propping up the rotors on blocks and lowering the rest on a jack - what I didn't realize is the whole thing needs to be lowered pretty much squarely or the long body mount bolts will hang up and bind.
Thinking when I go to put it all back in the car I should probably install the subframe without the differential to lighten the load a bit and make it all easier to maneuver into place...
IMG_8493.jpg
Now to go review 320iaman's diff rebuild thread... (thank you again for this Randy!)
Sure,post pictures of the progress, irelands kit is a good deal.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 01-15-2019 at 10:48 AM.
There’s a nice one on eBay right now btw.
Yesterday I started trying to unbolt the halfshafts from the differential and unfortunately ran into a worn-out-tool issue. My 6mm hex (allen) socket was a little rounded on the end after all these years and twisted right out of one of the bolts, rounding it as well. Socket is a Snap-On so at least I can get a free replacement.
Pulling out my good metal-cutting drill bits they easily cut into the rounded bolt head, but sadly my largest one was not big enough to get the head off. I ruined a couple not-good-for-metal drill bits attempting to finish the job, and gave up. Ordered a new set of decent quality metric hex impact sockets as well as a new set of metal-cutting drill bits in a large enough size to finish the job.
Sadly my 1/4" impact doesn't have quite the torque to get these bolts loose, not sure whether my 1/2" impact will fit. I had gotten the rest of ones on that one end of the one halfshaft loose by whacking the socket handle with a 5 lb window sash weight rather than trying to twist with arm strength, but stopped altogether once I realized my tool was at fault - I realize that a combination of penetrating oil, clean bolts (so the sockets are fully seated), and some kind of impact tool is probably the best bet.
Last edited by cgifool; 01-20-2019 at 11:44 AM.
see if you can find a compact 1/2 inch impact. mine from harbor freight is only 7.5 inches long with standard sized socket
I have two sets of 3/8 " socket Hex Keys, Husky which I have had for years and Craftsman, 1/2 " impact will work use impact wobble extensions, universals, and socket adapters. If you get a battery powered impact Ridgid 18V is the best, nothing wrong with Milwaukee-5 yr warranty--Ridgid has lifetime warranty-Lifetime Service Agreement, I have two Ridgids X4 and X5--they make short work of any bolt Nut on the Car, I have a ridgid flashlight too-turn the head so the light goes from straight-right up to the ceiling, sits flat surface, Ridgid X5-brushless- 450ft/lbs 3 impact speeds with automatic setting which shuts off in forward impact direction when it starts impacting so never tearing the head off a bolt, also if you buy the X5 Kit---Lifetime warranty on the Impact wrench, battery-4AH and charger--they replace or fix for free as long as you own them, the kit is ~$159 + tax--free shipping to your door in a couple of days or pick up at home depot store and sold thru Home depot. I got mine when it first came out--they are selling like wildfire.
ridgid-impact-wrenches-r86011sb-64_1000.jpg
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...11SB/303037082
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 01-20-2019 at 01:38 PM.
Did you get the rebuild Differential kit in ?
Randy
I have the rebuild kit from Ireland but haven’t gotten the diff dismounted from the subframe yet to start getting it apart.
Thanks for the tool tips! I think my 1/2” impact will work, might get another chance to play with it this evening if those new sockets arrive.
Sure, use impact sockets, impact extensions,impact universals and impact socket adapters--typical impacts are Chrome-Vanadium, Higher end ones are Chrome-Molybdenum - they are stronger and harder- I bought a deep metric set of these, so got both.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 01-21-2019 at 01:58 PM.
Progress ?
Randy
I received the drill bits on Monday.
However, as far as the hex bits, Amazon says that on Monday, "Your package was handed off directly." However, if they handed that package to someone it was neither me nor anyone in my family!
Googling the subject, it seems that this sometimes happens before the package is ACTUALLY delivered, because performance metrics. If it still hasn't shown up this evening I'll have to get them to replace it. Doubt I'll have another chance to mess with it before the weekend.
Last edited by cgifool; 01-23-2019 at 05:28 PM.
Metric Hex Bits-Lifetime Warranty with no questions, no receipt required.-Home depot-Austin Tx.. I have a set of these and craftsman
husky-socket-sets-h3dmm7pchbssr-64_1000.jpg
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...BSSR/203559457
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 01-24-2019 at 10:29 AM.
I ended up getting a refund from Amazon on the missing bits. Stopped by Home Depot this morning and they were sold out of the metric bits
Need to figure out where/when to meet up with the snap-on truck to replace my screwed up old bit. The rest of the set is fine.
There is 3 home depots in Austin.SE Austin shows 9 in stock.
Randy
I ended up getting a set of sockets from harbor freight.
Snap-On is sending me a shipping label to return my worn-out $26 6mm hex-bit socket for replacement.
After generously applying PB blaster to everything and making sure the socket was fully seated in each bolt, my 1/2" electric impact made short work of pulling the remaining half-shaft bolts.
The supposed metal-cutting drill bits I bought to finish drilling the head off the stripped bolt were definitely not what they claimed to be.
However, since the hole was well rounded I managed to hammer the next size (7mm) hex bit socket into it, and one hit with the impact-wrench was enough to break the head off the bolt stub since I'd already drilled it with a smaller bit. More PB blaster and vice grips did the job of twisting out the remaining stem of the bolt.
Another couple minutes with the impact was enough to remove the differential from the subframe - and the one mounting bolt that been rusted into the diff wasn't hard to get out after all.
Draining the diff and removing the rear cover was the last task for the eve, I was interested to see if it might actually be a LSD with totally worn out clutches - because the seller had advertised the car as having an LSD. He was mistaken.
Turning the pinion shaft by hand actually feels pretty smooth. The output shafts feel pretty rough. I actually prefer things to feel rough before I fix them so I can more fully appreciate the improvement afterwards
Progress. What is the turning torque of the differential, now before rebuilding it ?
Randy
Good question! I'll let you know as soon as I pick up a 1/4" torque wrench..
Today I found another 45 minutes to work on things: removed the rear rotors, e-brake shoes and hardware and cables, brake calipers, and sway bar.
I got the Neiko 03727A, 1/4" drive. I bought two adapters 1/4 to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/2 , the 1/2" drive 30 mm socket needs to be thinned wall to fit, sand, grind and use file to remove excess about 1 1/4' from 6 or 12 pointed end is enough to fit.
51QPJW+bY1L._SX425_.jpg
Randy
Awesome, thanks for the referral. Ordered the torque wrench and adapters.
I think I actually already have the thinned socket. I've been seeing it kicking around in my toolbox and have a dim memory of grinding it down when I worked at the BMW shop long ago. Might have been for removing a transmission output flange.
I just realized I had ordered the "early" (small rear pinion bearing) diff rebuild kit, since my car is a '78 model; not realizing I could look at the number of bolts on the side covers (4 vs 6 bolts) to make sure I got the right one. Woops. Fingers crossed, I'll check when I get home.
How many bolts 4 or 6 bolts ?
Randy
cool project. i have a small fabrication shop (machining, welding) in town. let me know if you need anything.
-bill
4 bolts, whew
Thanks Bill, I'll PM you!
Bearing Covers show 4 bolts @ realoem and 38 to 11 Ring Gear to Pinion Gear Ratio : 3.45 to 1
Randy
Tonight I spent 45 minutes working on the diff:
After popping off the two C-clips holding in the side shafts, they slid out easily. My 1/2" electric impact zoomed the side cover bolts off, and the two side covers came off easily with a couple screwdrivers in the right spot. I kept the left and right covers separated so they and their shims will make it back where they belong later. The pumpkin came out at this point. I counted the gear teeth, 38 to 11 like Randy said.
Using my new 1/4" torque wrench I measured the pinion shaft turning torque, it barely registered even 1 inch/pound.
As it turned out, my thinned socket was a 24mm. However, the lock ring came out fairly easily, so the 1/2" impact and unmodified 30mm socket took care of the pinion shaft nut.
Hammer and brass drift pushed the pinion shaft out without a hassle.
Inspecting the bearings, all have visible wear, but nothing awful.
Everything's super greasy and gross, wish I had a nice parts cleaning tank!! Unfortunately all I have is WD40, a plastic spatula, and a parts cleaning brush. I have a friend at a local gas station, I'll stop by there and see if he'll let me use his..
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