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Thread: SLS Suspension Dropping

  1. #1
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    SLS Suspension Dropping

    Here is my story.

    In September 2016 I started having a problem with the right side rear of the car dropping overnight. After some reading here the Air Springs seem to be the most common problem with something like this. Both were original to the car with some 170K miles on them, and when inspected had cracks in the rubber. So I figured replacing both would be best otherwise in a month or two the other side would probably fail. Replaced them in mid September 2016. After replacement no more rear end sag.

    Then about 1 1/2 month later in late October. The same thing started to happen again. Got a replacement Air Spring in mid November and installed it to find that was NOT the problem. Still sagging on the drivers side only after sitting for 12 hours.

    Winter set in and as the suspension worked fine when driving, no sagging, and very little running of the compressor, and I don't have an indoor place to work on the car, I let it be until spring arrived in 2017. Another note is that occasionally but not all the time both sides would drop if left for more than 24 hours.

    Here is where the story gets interesting. In April 2017 I started back on trying to figure out what was wrong. Here is the sequence of events.

    1. Pull compressor and check by having the output of the compressor attached directly to a pressure gauge. Output of compressor was good at over 200 PSI. pressure would drop off fairly rapidly. But from what I have read that was normal.

    2. Get new gasket and pump piston ring and install just to be on the safe side. $21 delivered and easy to install. Retest pump with same results.

    3. Connect pump back up to solenoids for left and right sides and test output. Both sides would pump up and remain at better than 200 PSI and as soon as the pump stopped the pressure reading would drop to 50 psi and stay there for more than 36 hours. Obviously this was not a good test. But live and learn.

    4. Put pump back in car and connected to the rest of the system. Drives side drops after a few hours.

    5. Swap air lines and electrical plugs at the the solenoids to for a test. Now the passenger side is dropping in a few hours. Drives side stay up.

    6. Swap air lines at junction block to check to see if it is an air line that has a slow leak. No passenger side is still dropping.

    7. Swap air lines back to original layout and drives side is dropping again. So this now means that something is wrong with the solenoids. I find GG's post on someone else doing maintenance on the solenoids and take them apart and clean them just as the OP had done to fix his problem. NO Luck there. Drives side still dropping.

    8. Retest swapping of air lines to ensure that the problem is definitely the solenoids. Passenger side dropping. Swap back and drivers side drops.

    9. Of course this is taking days to test as each time I did something I had to let the car sit for 12 hours or more because the leak was so slow.

    10. So I was going to order a pump. But Pumps don't come with the "Solenoids". so now where to get a solenoid. A check of the local Pick A Parts places only showed cars with well over 150K miles and they still wanted $400 plus for the pump assembly (included the pump, solenoids and the mounting bracket. I was not spending that kind of money on something that "may not" solve my problem.

    11. Finally found the solenoid only from AEROSUS.com for $149.00 delivered, with a no questions asked money back guarantee. Ordered it and it arrived in 4 days from Germany. This is the only place I could find the solenoids, even after having the original Wabco part number for them.

    12. Installed the Solenoids on Saturday and now 5 days later without the care being moved the rear end has only dropped 1/16 of an inch.

    So In this case, and this car has always been "different" when trying to figure out its issues, it was not the common parts that were needed.

    Just thought I would put this out there in case anyone else has a problem with a dropping rear end that is not fixed by airbags or a pump.
    Last edited by schatzy62; 06-15-2017 at 09:45 AM.
    2003 525iT Automatic, Topas Blue Exterior, Gray Leather Interior, Sports Suspension, Sports Seats, M 3 spoke Steering Wheel.
    2008 328xi E91 (wagon) Automatic, Barberatot Metallic Exterior, Terracotta Leather Interior.

  2. #2
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    hey Schatzy - that was me doing the solenoid r/r that GG posted some info on. I kinda had the same deal with mine....only I did not take any pressure readings on the system like you had done. The bags in mine were definitely leaking (replaced then using AEROSUS sport bags btw...) but before they arrived, I tore down the pump assembly to clean the pump housing, lube the piston ring and housing body gaskets (I did not fit a new piston ring kit like you did though...). I also removed the solenoids and cleaned/lubed the small piston inside each one (to reduce any stiction...I like that word...lol..) and then cleaned and lubricated the solenoid O-rings and the contact areas on the valve block. This did have a positive effect on the speed at which the car sagged (slowed down how fast it lost air...), and certainly reduced the time it took (takes) to trim the chassis (the pump was much quieter and ran with less duration even before the new bags were fitted...). It was finally all made good with the new bags. Now it's just a quick "brrrrrrrp...." and trim is set.

    FYI - I used Parker O-lube on ALL of the solenoid and pump body O-rings including the piston ring. Swagelok's Snoop was used to detect any leaks at the fittings for the lines and any mating surfaces on the pump assembly. (including the dist. block by the control unit / battery...)

    This is something that it seems more of us will have to put eyes on moving forward as there is definitely potential for an owner to find and fix something outside the normal failures just like you noted.

    tony
    "two wrongs don't make a right...only three lefts do...."
    '79 Euro 635csi - gone and regretting it...
    '89 gsxr-750 - former traffic knife
    '97 528i sedan - holding on strong...(just sold after 16 years of ownership - sad day)
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  3. #3
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    Tony,

    yes it was your post that GG had re-posted that I found. I did everything you did as well (actually went and found Parker O-Lube and used that).

    I was so happy when I found it that post, as it made me believe I could get it fixed with out any parts but no luck on that.

    Not in my original post is that i also swapped the pistons in the solenoids to see if it was one of them that was causing the leaking but that made no difference either. I also swapped the solenoid housing in the case that one of those was causing the leak but no luck on that either.

    I also used a something similar to the Swagelok's Snoop but came up totally empty on that as to what was leaking. Anything I used dried up before showing any bubbles but as the leak was so slow and small that kind of thing can be difficult.

    Now that the car seems to be working a properly I have had it sitting in the same spot with out being started for 5 days and using a tape measure to check the wheel arch height. From morning (54 degrees temp) to early evening (90+ degree temp) the change in height is about 1/8". So my thought is with the bags cool in the morning (lower height) to early evening (higher) it is just the air in the system expanding and contracting with temperatures which makes total sense. It is hard to tell as the temps have been varying so much around here but it measures out to having lost about 1/16" height total over the 5 days as my first measurements were R-25 1/2" and L-26" at 55 degrees and this morning at 53 degrees it was R-25 7/16" and L-25 15/16". But that may be normal.

    I still have the old solenoid and one of these days plan on plugging the two output holes and pressurizing the input hole and dropping it in a bucket of water to see if I can find any leaks in it. I don't see any cracks but there is a forth hole on the side that, if the silver ball is pressed in, releases the pressure inside the housing. It may be that is leaking a little.

    I will update this thread after that is done.
    2003 525iT Automatic, Topas Blue Exterior, Gray Leather Interior, Sports Suspension, Sports Seats, M 3 spoke Steering Wheel.
    2008 328xi E91 (wagon) Automatic, Barberatot Metallic Exterior, Terracotta Leather Interior.

  4. #4
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Good stuff guys! Love a fixed SLS!
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by schatzy62 View Post
    ......actually went and found Parker O-Lube and used that....
    lol...awesome.... 'ppreciate you using Parker stuff !!!
    "two wrongs don't make a right...only three lefts do...."
    '79 Euro 635csi - gone and regretting it...
    '89 gsxr-750 - former traffic knife
    '97 528i sedan - holding on strong...(just sold after 16 years of ownership - sad day)
    '03 Euro 525it - something about a famous dolphin.....

    '06 Mercury Grand Marquis (don't ask....it gets the job done....)
    '84 Specialized Allez - full Campagnolo Super Record
    '99-ish Cannondale CAAD4
    "Stinky" - Kona Stinky Five
    '86 528e
    2008 E70 X5 3.0


  6. #6
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    Digging up this old thread as I think I'm having the same issue on my 2002 540it. I just replaced the bags with Arnott's since it had been suffering the overnight sagging and has 133k miles. Come to find out, driver side still sags after 12 hours or so. After reading this thread, I'm betting it's the solenoids. I will mention that when my pump failed on my other wagon due to water filling up in the spare tire well, I discovered that the e53 X5 with single-axle SLS uses the exact same pump. Replaced the whole thing with a really nice one at a local pick-your-part for under $35. Will hopefully be able to do the same for this one. E53s show up all the time, but e39 tourings do not.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
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  7. #7
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Ha! We NEVER see E53s in my yard... dunno why. I mean there was one a month or so ago that I finally got my LCMIV out of but that was an exception.. We actually do see tourings. Sadly D-bag yardrats leave the hatches open or smash the rear glass so the well fills up with water and makes anything down there totally lost cause.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight530i View Post
    Digging up this old thread as I think I'm having the same issue on my 2002 540it. I just replaced the bags with Arnott's since it had been suffering the overnight sagging and has 133k miles. Come to find out, driver side still sags after 12 hours or so. After reading this thread, I'm betting it's the solenoids. I will mention that when my pump failed on my other wagon due to water filling up in the spare tire well, I discovered that the e53 X5 with single-axle SLS uses the exact same pump. Replaced the whole thing with a really nice one at a local pick-your-part for under $35. Will hopefully be able to do the same for this one. E53s show up all the time, but e39 tourings do not.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    Had exact same issue as you. Replaced bags and still had sag after 12 hours. I then replaced solenoids thinking that would fix...same issue. Turns out mine was compressor.

    The entire time my old compressor ran so I ruled that out initially. Once i replaced bags, sensors, and solenoids i then switched out compressor and that fixed the issue. (Turns our the compressor was too weak to keep up with the demand)




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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dvbimmerk View Post
    Had exact same issue as you. Replaced bags and still had sag after 12 hours. I then replaced solenoids thinking that would fix...same issue. Turns out mine was compressor.

    The entire time my old compressor ran so I ruled that out initially. Once i replaced bags, sensors, and solenoids i then switched out compressor and that fixed the issue. (Turns our the compressor was too weak to keep up with the demand)




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    That's where the benefit of replacing the whole compressor from a salvage yard will hopefully fix it. Includes compressor and solenoids. Also, for the price, could end up being a super cheap fix, unlike the airbags, though they needed replacement anyways.

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    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

  10. #10
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    Don't forget guys...they do sell those compressor pump o/h kits. It comes with a ring for the piston that is not pliable (It's about as hard as woodpecker lips...) and a gasket for the pump body. I pulled mine apart and lubricated the face of that piston ring, pulled the solenoids out (not hard at all...) cleaned and lubed the faces of the solenoid plungers (it's that little black pad on the plunger in the picture - those are soft rubber like silly-cone) and that o-ring for the solenoid itself. All was good in the world.

    IMG_20170111_214153575.jpgIMG_20170111_214208202.jpg

    Pump run time was shortened dramatically when it makes those little adjustments. My garage has a bit of a slope to it for water drainage and the pump runs when you pull out and hit the flat part of the driveway. Went from a few seconds run time to a quick "bbbbrrrrt…." and it was done.

    Blacknight….you prob don't have this issue down there but don't forget that the tanks on these perforate too from corrosion....(don't ask how I know...lol....twice..!!! )
    "two wrongs don't make a right...only three lefts do...."
    '79 Euro 635csi - gone and regretting it...
    '89 gsxr-750 - former traffic knife
    '97 528i sedan - holding on strong...(just sold after 16 years of ownership - sad day)
    '03 Euro 525it - something about a famous dolphin.....

    '06 Mercury Grand Marquis (don't ask....it gets the job done....)
    '84 Specialized Allez - full Campagnolo Super Record
    '99-ish Cannondale CAAD4
    "Stinky" - Kona Stinky Five
    '86 528e
    2008 E70 X5 3.0


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by adm750 View Post
    Don't forget guys...they do sell those compressor pump o/h kits. It comes with a ring for the piston that is not pliable (It's about as hard as woodpecker lips...) and a gasket for the pump body. I pulled mine apart and lubricated the face of that piston ring, pulled the solenoids out (not hard at all...) cleaned and lubed the faces of the solenoid plungers (it's that little black pad on the plunger in the picture - those are soft rubber like silly-cone) and that o-ring for the solenoid itself. All was good in the world.

    IMG_20170111_214153575.jpgIMG_20170111_214208202.jpg

    Pump run time was shortened dramatically when it makes those little adjustments. My garage has a bit of a slope to it for water drainage and the pump runs when you pull out and hit the flat part of the driveway. Went from a few seconds run time to a quick "bbbbrrrrt…." and it was done.

    Blacknight….you prob don't have this issue down there but don't forget that the tanks on these perforate too from corrosion....(don't ask how I know...lol....twice..!!! )
    California car, not a spec of rust on it, don't think corrosion is the problem. I'm going to try to find a whole compressor assembly from LKQ and swap it for cheap and see if it fixes it at this point.

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    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight530i View Post
    California car, not a spec of rust on it....
    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    fiiiiiinnnnne......rrrruuuuuub it in why don'tcha.....lol.... Good luck man...I hope it works. Maybe take a moment and go through the replacement one like I did while you have it out of the car and on the bench prior to install....(???) Might prevent some frustration from having to fiddle with it again should it have a bit of leakdown too....
    my $.02....fwiw..... ( probably worth $.000002...haha...)

    You got this man, just trying to think ahead and look out for you is all....

    tony
    "two wrongs don't make a right...only three lefts do...."
    '79 Euro 635csi - gone and regretting it...
    '89 gsxr-750 - former traffic knife
    '97 528i sedan - holding on strong...(just sold after 16 years of ownership - sad day)
    '03 Euro 525it - something about a famous dolphin.....

    '06 Mercury Grand Marquis (don't ask....it gets the job done....)
    '84 Specialized Allez - full Campagnolo Super Record
    '99-ish Cannondale CAAD4
    "Stinky" - Kona Stinky Five
    '86 528e
    2008 E70 X5 3.0


  13. #13
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    So, just wanted to update that my suspension sagging issue overnight has been solved. I ended up installing a used X5 compressor assembly and it works great. Only thing that needed to be done to make it an e39 touring compressor was to swap over the threaded rod for the spare tire hold-down. Other than that, it's a perfect swap. I actually bought two at the salvage yard, so if someone wants one, PM me. Pressure has been holding for about a week or so without even a slight bit of sag.

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

  14. #14
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    Also, both the compressors I picked up looked absolutely brand new inside the main housing. The solenoids and compressor itself looked like it was just manufactured, even though they both were made in 2003.

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

  15. #15
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Cool. Is the X5 pump the same Paul, or is there any difference in the hardware? (lazy guy doesn't check realoem) ScottieD and I were just talking about wanting to snag a yunkyard pump and rebuilding it to have on the shelf as a spare....
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
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    Former:

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  16. #16
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    Great discovery. X5s are much easier to find in junkyards than E39 Tourings. I rebuilt one of the Wabco compressors that was in an Audi allroad (don't ask, it was given to me, we drove it a few years and ultimately the 540iT replaced it). It was super easy. On the allroad I didn't have to remove the compressor. The rebuild kits are available from a guy in the UK who calls himself bagpipeandy. He has made himself a little side business out of helping people rebuild Wabco compressors for German car air suspensions. Let's just say that after the allroad the 540iT SLS is a joy. You get to know the customer service guys at Arnott on a first name basis when you have an allroad.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Cool. Is the X5 pump the same Paul, or is there any difference in the hardware? (lazy guy doesn't check realoem) ScottieD and I were just talking about wanting to snag a yunkyard pump and rebuilding it to have on the shelf as a spare....
    No difference whatsoever. It's identical.

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    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

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