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Thread: E38 Coil over install requirements

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    626
    My Cars
    1997 740i, 1973 Bronco, 1996 Bronco

    Cool E38 Coil over install requirements

    Good Morning Guys,

    It has been a while..

    I need some help? I need to install the KW 3 coil overs on my E38. (already purchased)
    This is not a track car, but sees spirited driving every once in a while (please see sig)

    We are replacing the stock original suspension components (struts shocks, etc)
    (All the other stuff was replaced a few years ago, front and back, like A arms bushings, etc)

    So, I know I need adj camber plates for the front, not sure about rear?
    I remember reading the adj plates can loosen, so I want to get the best one possible?

    I am not slamming the car, just a mild lower of 1-1 1\2 inches. Not looking to scrap things, but more handling considerations vs looks.
    When I went to 19 inch rims the front end seemed to raise, so I want to take care of that...

    Any assistance, experience, or advise would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks again Bimmerforums!
    UUC EVO3 SSK, 6spd, Quaife dif. 3.15, VF Super Charger with race bypass valve, Zionsville super duty kit with 2 stage fan, M5 mirrors, SS brake lines, clears, BSW stage 1 and d112.e38 Subwoofer System, Angel eyes and HID lights, Strong Strut, Sarona full Body Kit, 750 brake swap, working on black interior swap and KW coil-over install, etc...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    626
    My Cars
    1997 740i, 1973 Bronco, 1996 Bronco
    UUC EVO3 SSK, 6spd, Quaife dif. 3.15, VF Super Charger with race bypass valve, Zionsville super duty kit with 2 stage fan, M5 mirrors, SS brake lines, clears, BSW stage 1 and d112.e38 Subwoofer System, Angel eyes and HID lights, Strong Strut, Sarona full Body Kit, 750 brake swap, working on black interior swap and KW coil-over install, etc...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    752
    My Cars
    1998 E38 750iL
    You don't necessarily need camber plates at all, especially if you aren't lowering aggressively. I'm on ST coilovers (made by KW) and all I did was buy new OEM rubber top mounts front and rear, which also helps keep some of the OEM compliance in the ride. My alignment came out just fine. There is some negative camber in the rear but I'm fairly low, but the shop had no trouble getting things set up nicely.

    For installation there are some great guides out there. At the front you may want to disconnect the brake lines, or unbolt the calipers, as I felt there was a lot of strain on the lines when pushing the front knuckles down to get the stock struts out of the wheel arches. However they have held up fine so far *knock on wood*.

    At the rear it can be a bitch to wrangle the struts out of the multi-link arms. It is much easier if you can manage to disconnect at least the rear control arms - you'll see which ones when you get in there. Make sure you have the appropriate wrenches on hand. Taking apart the backseat to get to the rear strut top bolts might be the other most time-consuming thing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    626
    My Cars
    1997 740i, 1973 Bronco, 1996 Bronco
    Quote Originally Posted by Aitch View Post
    You don't necessarily need camber plates at all, especially if you aren't lowering aggressively. I'm on ST coilovers (made by KW) and all I did was buy new OEM rubber top mounts front and rear, which also helps keep some of the OEM compliance in the ride. My alignment came out just fine. There is some negative camber in the rear but I'm fairly low, but the shop had no trouble getting things set up nicely.

    For installation there are some great guides out there. At the front you may want to disconnect the brake lines, or unbolt the calipers, as I felt there was a lot of strain on the lines when pushing the front knuckles down to get the stock struts out of the wheel arches. However they have held up fine so far *knock on wood*.

    At the rear it can be a bitch to wrangle the struts out of the multi-link arms. It is much easier if you can manage to disconnect at least the rear control arms - you'll see which ones when you get in there. Make sure you have the appropriate wrenches on hand. Taking apart the backseat to get to the rear strut top bolts might be the other most time-consuming thing.
    Perfect, yes, I am not going too low, but I know my bushings are trashed because my camber is way off currently...

    ok, good tip

    On the rear, perhaps I can swap out the rear control arm while I am there for the 740il sway bar mount? I have all the wrenches. Great tips

    I will start looking at the installation posts

    Thank you!
    Last edited by BlackWolf; 06-14-2017 at 11:22 AM.
    UUC EVO3 SSK, 6spd, Quaife dif. 3.15, VF Super Charger with race bypass valve, Zionsville super duty kit with 2 stage fan, M5 mirrors, SS brake lines, clears, BSW stage 1 and d112.e38 Subwoofer System, Angel eyes and HID lights, Strong Strut, Sarona full Body Kit, 750 brake swap, working on black interior swap and KW coil-over install, etc...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    626
    My Cars
    1997 740i, 1973 Bronco, 1996 Bronco
    Aitch,

    Would you mind posting a pic of you lowered E38?
    I looked at your profile but no pics?

    Just to get perspective on how lowered you went, etc..

    Thank you
    UUC EVO3 SSK, 6spd, Quaife dif. 3.15, VF Super Charger with race bypass valve, Zionsville super duty kit with 2 stage fan, M5 mirrors, SS brake lines, clears, BSW stage 1 and d112.e38 Subwoofer System, Angel eyes and HID lights, Strong Strut, Sarona full Body Kit, 750 brake swap, working on black interior swap and KW coil-over install, etc...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    752
    My Cars
    1998 E38 750iL
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackWolf View Post
    Aitch,

    Would you mind posting a pic of you lowered E38?
    I looked at your profile but no pics?

    Just to get perspective on how lowered you went, etc..

    Thank you

    Sure. The rest are in my ST coilover thread and my ride thread.







  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    626
    My Cars
    1997 740i, 1973 Bronco, 1996 Bronco
    NICE! That is a pretty color and looks great sir.

    Thanks again!
    UUC EVO3 SSK, 6spd, Quaife dif. 3.15, VF Super Charger with race bypass valve, Zionsville super duty kit with 2 stage fan, M5 mirrors, SS brake lines, clears, BSW stage 1 and d112.e38 Subwoofer System, Angel eyes and HID lights, Strong Strut, Sarona full Body Kit, 750 brake swap, working on black interior swap and KW coil-over install, etc...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    Posts
    56
    My Cars
    97 540i/6
    Hey sorry to revive this thread but what do you need to put coilovers on the rear of 750il with SLS suspension?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    752
    My Cars
    1998 E38 750iL
    Quote Originally Posted by PhreshBimz View Post
    Hey sorry to revive this thread but what do you need to put coilovers on the rear of 750il with SLS suspension?
    Hey we chatted via PMs but for posterity and others I'll respond here too.

    The first thing is obviously doing a delete of the SLS system which has been covered in other threads. There are a few methods but by far the easiest and most effective is to create a close-off loop in the SLS lines under the driver's seat. Best to get a length of hard line with fittings on the end from NAPA (in the US) which you can bend into a U and attach to the stock lines. No leaks.

    Many coilovers include some sort of strut-top mount - usually a more solid pillow-ball type. If they do, you are all set here. If not, you may need to buy OEM-style mounts. If you're replacing the original shocks you might as well get new strut-top mounts at the same time - if they aren't completely shot yet, they will wear out and might as well do it all at once.

    SLS suspension means you have EDC, which in turn use different OEM strut-top mounts - the EDC version has a slightly larger diameter tube, so the strut-top mounts on an EDC/SLS car will have a central hole which is too big for most aftermarket struts and coilovers. This is important if your coilovers use OEM strut mounts (as my ST coils do; BC Racing also has an option for OEM rubber mounts although I'm not sure if they supply them or you need to buy separately).

    That should be it!

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