Driver-side window explodes

[jwdidier]

My driver side window exploded while driving. It seems like the combination of high speed (80 mph) and wind buffeting from a passing truck caused an over/under pressure and boom. Has anyone experienced this? Surely this is not normal. The window was original equipment. Didn't appear to be a rock or anything like that...

1996 1.9 Z3 convertible

Any ideas on what to do now?

Thanks!

[Vintage42]

The truck threw up a stone, the impact of which was lost in the wind, road and engine noise of the 1.9 at 80 mph, and the buffeting of the passing truck. Get an estimate on replacing the window, and file an insurance claim. If that is not successful, this is a good overview on removing and replacing the window:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNsWGuwnbn0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Xio...U&spfreload=10
Order the window:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51328397627/

While in the door, there are other things to do:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...5#post27426485

[jwdidier]

Thanks!!

[rf900rkw]

That is a very bad example of how to remove the window. Utterly stupid, but quite common because everyone "knows that's how it's done" You do not remove the rear track, and very important you do NOT remove the vent glass and frame. Those are adjusted just so from the factory. If you disturb the mounting you will likely end up water and air leaks at the windshield pillar.. Remove the outer window seal, disconnect the regulator, and lift the glass out. No need to take the door apart, No need to drop all the adjustment shims into the sump, no need to lose the adjustment points.


Youtube is for cat videos.

[Vintage42]

... Remove the outer window seal, disconnect the regulator, and lift the glass out. No need to take the door apart...

Good points in the post about risking the loss of the factory adjustment if not careful. Even some forum DIYs call for removal of the front window just for replacing the sliders (glass in vs glass out methods).

The video appears to say that the side window can't be removed or replaced with the front window in place. The side window is inserted, slid back into place, and then the front glass is installed, if I remember.
At least you do have to take the door somewhat apart -- take door panel off to disconnect the regulator and lift the glass out.

For people who have no idea where to start, cats or not, the videos and DIYs are better than nothing.

[rf900rkw]

I would not call just enough (mis)nformation to do permanent damage to the car "better than nothing".

[LannVouivre]

Youtube is for cat videos.

Finally, a chance for me to shine!

[jwdidier]

Ok, so I got the door panel off (had to get all the broken glass out) and there is no "liner" plastic, foam or otherwise. Should I order a foam liner? will it fit a 1996? And If I vacuum out all the glass will it affect these "shims"? I haven't touched anything but the door panel and window gasket.

[328 Power 04]

Finally, a chance for me to shine!

Gave you a like... although the voice didn't sound like you would sound.

The cat trills, that's cool.

[khammack]

Ok, so I got the door panel off (had to get all the broken glass out) and there is no "liner" plastic, foam or otherwise. Should I order a foam liner? will it fit a 1996? And If I vacuum out all the glass will it affect these "shims"? I haven't touched anything but the door panel and window gasket.

The liner keeps water out of the car and directs it to the drain holes in the bottom of the door. I would replace it. The "shims" are in the window rails and are not all that easy to remove, so vacuuming the glass out shouldn't move them.

[Vintage42]

... there is no "liner" plastic, foam or otherwise. Should I order a foam liner? will it fit a 1996?...

Yes, see 3 and 4 here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...5#post27426485
The door must have a sealed membrane liner or water will get out of the door and onto the floorboard. See #9 here:
https://zroadster.org/threads/door-membrane.1177/

Ok, so I got the door panel off... I haven't touched anything but the door panel and window gasket.

I am curious if you can replace the window operable window without removing the fixed triangular window on its post. Every cat video I have seen shows it coming out to free the operable window. Not only the video in Post #2 above, but also at 5:00 here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=237&v=jroZ1Z9fEv8

[LannVouivre]

Gave you a like... although the voice didn't sound like you would sound.

The cat trills, that's cool.

Cuz that's my fiance.

Alice is a bundle of joy and neurosis.

[rf900rkw]

I have changed sliders, door handles. strikers, window regulators, door glass, lock actuators, Even cut the internal supports out and rewelded (it's a coupe thing). Many of these tasks have been done dozens of times. I have never needed to, indeed I have never pulled the vent window or frame. Anyone that pulls the vent window is just following the one before them with no thought to what is being done, or why. Gospel starts.here. It's just like all the cooling bleeding videos that tell you to set the heater to hot and turn on the key even though we don't have a latent heat pump. Or crushing the brake light switch rather than understanding how it releases.

Here's how your typical youtube video happens. Someone tries to do what should be a simple task, but they go at it totally wrong, and make a real hash of the job. So they write up a DIY and post it to the forums so others can follow them on the wrong path. Then someone takes that and three other conflicting DIYs, tries to combine then, and nearly destroys the car. So they make a video of the process "to help others"

[Vintage42]

... I have never pulled the vent window or frame. Anyone that pulls the vent window is just following the one before them with no thought to what is being done, or why... nearly destroys the car...

I can see it. The leaks that could develop from removing and then replacing the vent window frame with loss of shims and adjustment -- would make wet carpet, which can be the beginning of the end for a Z3. Owners would not suspect or correct that cause, and the corroding of all the connections and sensors on and under the carpet, would begin a series of problems that would cause the car to change hands frequently and spiral down.

[LannVouivre]

If you think the vent window was pulled in the past, what would be necessary to realign it?

[jwdidier]

I have changed sliders, door handles. strikers, window regulators, door glass, lock actuators, Even cut the internal supports out and rewelded (it's a coupe thing). Many of these tasks have been done dozens of times. I have never needed to, indeed I have never pulled the vent window or frame. Anyone that pulls the vent window is just following the one before them with no thought to what is being done, or why. Gospel starts.here. It's just like all the cooling bleeding videos that tell you to set the heater to hot and turn on the key even though we don't have a latent heat pump. Or crushing the brake light switch rather than understanding how it releases.

Here's how your typical youtube video happens. Someone tries to do what should be a simple task, but they go at it totally wrong, and make a real hash of the job. So they write up a DIY and post it to the forums so others can follow them on the wrong path. Then someone takes that and three other conflicting DIYs, tries to combine then, and nearly destroys the car. So they make a video of the process "to help others"

Any tips for installing the new window when it comes in?

[jwdidier]

I have changed sliders, door handles. strikers, window regulators, door glass, lock actuators, Even cut the internal supports out and rewelded (it's a coupe thing). Many of these tasks have been done dozens of times. I have never needed to, indeed I have never pulled the vent window or frame. Anyone that pulls the vent window is just following the one before them with no thought to what is being done, or why. Gospel starts.here. It's just like all the cooling bleeding videos that tell you to set the heater to hot and turn on the key even though we don't have a latent heat pump. Or crushing the brake light switch rather than understanding how it releases.

Here's how your typical youtube video happens. Someone tries to do what should be a simple task, but they go at it totally wrong, and make a real hash of the job. So they write up a DIY and post it to the forums so others can follow them on the wrong path. Then someone takes that and three other conflicting DIYs, tries to combine then, and nearly destroys the car. So they make a video of the process "to help others"

I have the Bentley BMW Z3 manual ('96 - '98, forgot that I had it) and it does specifically call for removing the fixed glass. I didn't, and managed to get the widow in anyway but something doesn't seem right and I have to go in AGAIN. It seems there are three different adjustments that can be made to the window position? Currently i have about a 1/8 in. gap between the top of the glass and the seal. it also makes a noise when I change direction of travel (up vs. down and vice versa.)

[rf900rkw]

There are no adjustments on the window. There are adjustments on the tracks. There are adjustments on the regulator. But none on the glass. If you just took the glass out and then put in the new one, it should end up in the same spot.

A famous forum member once commented that the Bentley makes a lovely door stop. I wouldn't know, I don't have one.

[Vintage42]

... The video appears to say that... The side window is inserted, slid back into place, and then the front glass is installed...

... Not only the video in Post #2 above, but also at 5:00 here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=237&v=jroZ1Z9fEv8

... Bentley BMW Z3 manual ... does specifically call for removing the fixed glass. I didn't, and managed to get the widow in anyway but something doesn't seem right and I have to go in AGAIN...

Did you slide the operable glass backwards into place as the cat videos and maybe the door stop book seem to indicate?
Or does the operate glass just iift out and go back in without removing the fixed window? You did it that way, but if the window needs to be slid back into final position, it seems the fixed window must be out of the way.

[rf900rkw]

Don't forget TIS.


You do not have to slide the window. What the official procedure does is assume the plastic sliders are a fixed part of the regulator. You know, the pieces you are replacing individually. Yeah, them. The manuals want you to try and hit both springing square slider blocks pre-attached to the regulator without either turning by manoeuvring the heavy window inside the door with millimeter precision. It's akin to threading a needle by holding the thread and moving the machine.

It's just like changing the sliders. You put the blocks into the window tracks. You set the window into the door and align with the regulator. You snap the blocks onto the regulator. You're done. Yes, it is really that easy. Once the door panel is removed, it should not take two minutes to change both sliders, including cleaning and lubing. Changing the entire glass might add another minute.

[2002Z3]

Thanks Randy for your posts on this matter. I have some new regulator puck/blocks (whatever they are called) that I was going to install a while ago, but never got around to it. I had read up on the procedure that included removing the front wing "vent" window and thought it was too much of a chore. I'm messed with side windows on other cars over the years, but find the Z3 is a little more difficult, since the door is so small. Now with your advice in mind, I think I will tackle this after all. I've found in life that if some sort of operation starts becoming overly complicated, then I am probably doing it wrong. Thanks again.

[rf900rkw]

The general procedure for doing the sliders.

Remove door panel. reinstall the airbag if you don't have a way to clear codes.

Pull the hairpins on the two sliders. You may have to move the window up or down to find access, depending on tool used. I use an old cotterpin puller

Adjust the window to a comfortable height in the door, You'll end up a few inches from bottom

With a stout blade, pop the regulator arm ball from each slider

Work the window upwards and set it on top of the regulator arm balls. It takes a bit of force to hold the arms back

Remove old sliders, clean lube, install new sliders. Align with the arm balls

Pull the regulator arms back and allow the window to move into alignment. Fine adjust the position of the sliders.

Snap the balls into the sliders. I can do it with my hand, barely. Pliers are acceptable, as long as you don't grip against the glass

Put the door panel back on.

[2002Z3]

Thanks for the write up! I have some stout plastic pry tools for the job. I love those things. They let me take apart our MB GLK350's c3enter console to get a lost credit card. They are wonderful for door panels and anything you want to be "nice to". Got to love Harbor Freight. I got the tools on sale for less than $5. The exact same ones, but with a logo imprinted, are over $20 elsewhere.

I am considering using my blue waterproof bearing grease for this job. I use it for my LCAB bushings and figure it would work well here too. It will be nice to have windows that act like they are running on 6 volts. Previous attempts to use lithium grease spray were less effective, as noted by some.